Nonamedude

Yea I've got the romraider defs in addition to the ecu flash ones so I don't think that's my issue. I'll have to play with it again later tonight and I'll delete all my defs and redownload them just to make sure. For clarification, I'm trying to use romraider defs with romraider. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok well apparently the key to change the thing to disabled in ECUflash is "[ or ]" so that problem is solved. I'm assuming I can flash it back to the vehicle in either .bin or .srf? Would still like to be able to use romraider.

Kinda bored trying to figure out romraider so here's more. My thumb is touching the tgv plug and the black thing is that actuator. You can also see my top feed rails and injectors. That blue plug goes into the ocv sensor. That's basically everything in that area. Really if you confirm they are deleted and that should be easy to tell, just delete the cel and move on.

ahhh new I'd read the deal somewhere. Yea the TGV are identical driver and passenger side, which means the wiring harness runs to the rear of the driver TGV and front of the passenger TGV. If they did a delete, the big black uhhh sensor thing (it's the actuator) won't be there most likely and somewhere nearby ish should be a grey plug. IMO passenger side is easier to see. Unless they were dumb like me and took them apart and put them back together without properly deal with the dang little spring thingy. I removed the valves in mine but left the rods in, so it looks like a regular tgv and should act like it but I broke the sensors, which is why I'm trying to delete the CEL. But I also know I don't have a blockage there so I'm not worried about them not moving. I know you're not in front of the car but I'd look at the TGV themselves and see if you can find those big black actuators. I suppose you could leave those plugs dangling between the fuel rails. If you need some photos, Covert russian has good ones here. I think there is also another good one on my phone. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/build-install-tgv-deletes-263724.html?

So tried searching and refollowing steps and uninstalling and what not. I'm sure I'm just doing something stupid wrong. I have romraider, the base ecu defs, the most recent one for my ecu from github, logger defs, car defs. Latest Java 8 which is mixed mode as they no longer do specific 32 and 64 bit versions. ECU defs are unzipped into a special folder and then put into the definition manager. I have downloaded the rom in ecuflash and saved it as a .bin. My options for saving were .bin and .srf. When I try to open the rom I get "Unable to read XML definitions. Please make sure the definition file is correct. If it is in a ZIP archive, unzip the file and try again." It's not in a zip archive, the xml file was unzipped directly to the destination folder (tuning folder on the desktop) Windows 10, Java 8 update 231 08 OBXT 5MT A2TB001N (from what I can tell from ECUflash) Not sure what I'm doing wrong. Honestly I'm just trying to delete the TGV CEL and can't figure out how to change it from enable to disable in ECUflash. I thought romraider might make more sense UI wise and it seems like more people use romraider.

Ahhhhh I see what you are saying. So the big grey plug (mine are grey at least) that goes under the front of the turbo inlet, goes to nothing. As in the motor and actuator are not located under the turbo inlet like they should be (driver side is on the rear of the engine btw). If that is the case, then yes a TGV delete. I'm sure I've read this in one of your threads, but I'm assuming when you got the car, there were no CEL correct?

Speaking of a stock air box. NY: After Sale 4th gen (2005) parts https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=5383&share_tid=280873&url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D280873&share_type=t&link_source=app Bit much imo. And he doesn't say if it comes with the snorkel thing. And gkinslow is gonna yell at him for no pics.

Just looked through that thread. When you're looking to see top or side feed, it'll be easier to look at the injectors themselves, assuming everything is assembled. These are oe top feeds. If they converted it, you likely won't have the same injectors, but the side feeds are these weird puck like yellow topped things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Keep an eye on the junkyards and part out threads. Check nasioc as well. Since you're not getting ALL the tgv codes, I think you've got an actual issue. Those codes put the vehicle in limp mode so you would have known if they were there before. That said, great time for a tgv delete. Last I looked there were both top and side feed deletes for sale on the forum. Now I just gotta remember to secure my MAP sensor tomorrow. And I guess the bcs as well. I didn't replace that hose yet, maybe I should. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless they put a bunch more money in it, they should be side feeds. OE sides are yellow, OE tops are blue. It could be that the tgv failed. That DOES happen and is why I did a kinda half ass delete on mine (should have gone all the way). Sorry I didn't recognize those as the tgv codes. I'm literally working on deleting those right now. You'll want to pull the manifold off. If the PO didn't do a tgv delete, you've possibly got a major air blockage with it stuck closed. AFAIK the ecu can't revert to the stock tune and tunes don't really get "corrupted" unless you're reading or writing to the ecu and lose power to stuff. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Went by home depot and they didn't have the fitting. The nearby plumbing supply store didn't either and were out of npt ones as well. Ordered it on Amazon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Idk I thought the MAP sensor was on the throttle body. Must have gotten confused. Should be secured though? Could likely screw it in to one of the holes on the intake manifold near where it goes stock, which would where OPs BCS is. Not sure what that black foamy pad thing is on his manifold though. Can't tell if he has an open screw hole.

Wait that's the MAP sensor? I thought it was a fuel thing. That's the one with the weird foamy white filter circle on it right?

Check out covert russians sti inlet install. He just shoved all his under the intake manifold, which is what I'm doing with mine. You could custom fab some brackets, which I may do at some point, using the OE bracket that holds it all as a base. Exactly what codes are you getting? That's bcs, a uhhh fuel evap solenoid, and a vacuum sensor for the fuel lines I believe. For reference, this is the stock set up. And how it seems to normally get left.

Oh I missed this one! Yea that's gonna happen. Rally sport is local shop if I can't find the fitting, I can at least get an adapter. I'm hoping I can start it up tomorrow. Starting to get anxious. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That is a phenomenal idea Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hmm I sent mine for cleaning to dw and they just flow tested them. Said they were good. But it looked like new seals they sent me back. Same style not the one without the lip. I'm pretty sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think some metal shavings is not the end of the world at that point. Maybe you should get an oil analysis? Subbing so I can see what to expect on my new block as well.

Well I don't have an oil pressure gauge. And I don't have any money left haha. And I don't have a built motor. Like there is a good chance I didn't even need the ARP head studs if the block doesn't start pulling apart until around 18+ psi like I've read. So I think there is a lot of variability. It's a shame the oil pressure light in the car registers so low as to be useless. And if I understand the diagram, it's one of the first places to get oil. Could you do something like, prime the crank and cams through the pcv and breather system? Just spit balling, I just know they go to that area, I think.

Well I've been working on stuff here and there. Turns out I bought the front oxygen sensor instead of the MAF sensor. Not the end of the world. Need to check and see if I got the wrong part or I ordered the wrong thing. Hoping to get all belts and everything on Saturday and either Saturday or Sunday try the first start up. Unrelated to the build, I noticed this on the seam of my hood. Unlike a flat panel where some sanding, clr, and touch might do the trick. I'm unsure what to do here. Maybe just plan on a new hood in the future and not refinishing this one. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also for op. Go to thule and Yakima sites and just enter your car info. It'll show you clamps that should fit on. Unless they've discontinued stuff for the legacy roof line. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How long is that box and what size are your skis? I have an outback so rails are different but normal skis out here are like 100 underfoot 180 length. Debating on box, rack, cross bar options. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I love (hate) that there's so many thoughts on engine break in. I get max capacitys thought process there since I can't imagine many imports get plugs pulled and multiple cranks to build oil pressure when they come off the boat. I'm sure a lot of it is more important when building big stuff, but a stock build is probably not as particular. As far as assembly lube, well I think it's been a month since I got the engine back and ranged from something like 70-10 degrees outside, so I'm not trusting to that at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks, somehow I'd missed that one. Certainly more extensive but main differences are suggested oil, when to finish break in period, and unplug crank position sensor. Cobb says remove spark plugs but that sounds silly. I'd read of pulling the fuel pump fuse which had been my plan. I guess I don't really know what the crank position sensor really does. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do you have a build thread? Why so long on break in? I didn't get any recommendation from the machine shop I used (stock rebuild stock tune is likely why) and was just going to follow the process cobb has listed based on looking at a bunch. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk