Nonamedude

Well I haven't heard back from the machine shop yet. Not super worried about it. Thinking I'll have the turbo back early next week. This past weekend I did the pads and rotors on my friends Titan and was thinking about the condition of my own and that's how I found out the outback has undersized brakes! Terrible thing. I was thinking I'd run by a pull and pay and grab some used calipers. Then down the road rebuild and paint them. There is an lgt nearby as well as two Tribecas. For $15 a caliper why not as I'll need pads and rotors eventually. What I'm trying to figure out is, all 4th Gen lgt front a rear calipers and brackets are good. Front calipers from a Tribeca are good but not the rears. Something somewhere about certain newer outbacks being good. More or less what cars can I pull the lgt brakes from. Or is that a terrible idea and I should just buy some remans instead of trying to redo them myself? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea that's always the balance. Time cost and need for the vehicle. I guess it depends on the area. For max capacity a rebuild of his block was quoted really expensive. Tehnation says his rebuild with a bunch of upgrades was the same cost as my stock block. Guess it also depends on the turn around at the machine shop too. You'd still want to get the stuff machined so it's not like you can swap the block in a day. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Fun stuff! Can't say much about the bank 1 issues but yes there should be a heat shield over the turbo, it'll stop heat soak into the intercooler but idk that it's the end of the world. I'd run one. And I think that's the main wire harness you're talking about, the fat one that goes into the firewall right there? Is the engine cradle higher in the outback? I thought it was the same but there was a bit of a suspension lift and a wimpy sway bar in the rear. I'd certainly get compression and leak down on your motor before swapping it into a new body. I'm doing a rebuild of an obxt right now and it's not a small amount of work. And I wish it was easier to have the rear bumper on the lgt on my obxt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is there a reason you're not just rebuilding your block with better pistons? Is it just a cost thing and hoping these would be a good deal? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'm having jmp rebuild my Vf-46. There was metal in my oil so as part of my rebuild I'm replacing nearly all oil parts. I see BNR suggests running a turbo line from a sandwich plate directly to the turbo. I guess if I did this I'd run another line from the head directly to the acvs. Covertrussian and others look like they do a braided line with a tee from the head to both locations. Any advantage to one or the other? I guess with a sandwich adapter I could use the other port to run an oil pressure gauge. Is the main reason for all this just avoiding having to bend the hard line? I'm not going to use banjo bolt filters so that's not a concern. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can measure the opening of mine when I get home. I'm planning to go with the Kenwood dmx906 so I hope that fits. I don't have a head unit yet but I think that should fit without issue. It looks like from the pic above its an issue of faceplate opening size? Likely could dremel it out some at worst. Assuming there isn't any issues with mounting brackets behind.

If you're at 180k and the original turbo and plan on keeping the car, might be time for a rebuild from someone like jmp. Car might be down for a bit though so idk if that's an issue. But if you've fixed the return line and it's not the head gaskets or valve covers then maybe it's the above. It'd suck to have the turbo go and take your engine out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would love to see pics of these. Trying to figure out what exactly to do with my shifter trim and radio bezels. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Gonna bring this back to the top. I really like this. A few questions though. So those part numbers listed in madrigs first post are the JDM part numbers correct? But where exactly do I buy those parts? And those numbers are for all black pillars? Or are those the part numbers from the 08-14 sti which apparently shares interchangeable parts? Sorry for the newbie confusion.

Did you just use like krylon spray paint? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If it's back by the turbo and the downpipe it might be one of these fine items. I can't tell you what they are cuz idk myself yet but I'm thinking it's oil return from the turbo? Snagged that picture last night so lighting might not be great. The valve cover and head on that side are perfect. So I'm thinking that's either from a leak straight out the turbo or from the oil return. I think the fixed pipe is coolant. Hope that helps. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There are photos in the completed double din thread of some. I saw one that was wrapped and was thinking of doing the same. You COULD convert to the whole jdm/euro center console. It's all black and I think it looks really good but it's a pain and hard to find and quite expensive. The shifter bezel is a different shape so you need the whole center console. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh yea. I got excited and started getting ahead of myself a few weeks back. No interior changes until the vehicle is reassembled and running. That's why I haven't done an hid swap or radio or any of that yet. Besides, since the battery isn't in it, I can't test any of the electrical as I go. I'm just planning and buying things as I see them come up used if I get them first. It's kinda a weird position because I realized I started this in mid June and it likely won't run until October with some stuff coming up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I guess I've given myself a new project once the engine is done. Got it dropped off at the machine shop this morning. I didn't realize the jdm interior had a full black option. I'm already going to do the radio, giving me a black bezel and a/c and I went ahead and got a spare shifter trim and non wood radio trim that I'm thinking of wrapping in black. Well looks like I'm going to try to get those a and b pillar trim in black in the for sale section and will try to find the c and d pillars and liftgate trim as well. Likely leave the headliner tan and try to get black sun visors and oh shit handles. Maybe a black sun roof panel as well. I'd already decided that I wasn't going to do the center console jdm swap due to cost and effort but looks like I'm going to do this instead. I hate the weird champagne radio that's the only thing that color and not a huge fan of the wood. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I called them yesterday and told them what car I had and what I was doing and they already new a lot of the problems and had all the tools and everything. Pricing didn't seem too bad and I was glad they new everything without having to ask any more than I have an outback xt. Borrowed my roommates truck and dropped it off there this morning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I ran through rough pricing on everything when I called. I've never done all this and got worried about trying to pull the cams (the gears that the timing belt is on, maybe that's the cam gears?) without proper tools. Maybe it'd be fine, maybe I'd break something. I can't remember exact pricing but if everything is good with the heads, pulling them, machining, and reassembly is only around 500. And I'm tired of fighting with bolts haha. It gets things moving quicker and I can work on other stuff in the meantime. Don't pulling and replacing the heads need more special tools? I can justify general tools but I don't plan on doing a new block on a subaru again any time soon. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK cool. Once I get some time, maybe while the engine and turbo are gone, I'll try to pull the lights and see what I can figure out. I can't remember where I read it, but there was something about the drain holes in the liftgate getting clogged and leading to rusting. So I'll look at that and the lights. Those gaskets on the reverse lights look pretty simple. Was looking at a parts diagram earlier.

Yea an outback. Is that a pull the lights and it's the sealant holding it together issue? Or is it a gasket between the lights and the body? Either way I'm guessing pull the lights. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I think the drain holes in the lift gate are clogged. I feel like I read somewhere about that being a thing that happens. When I opened the rear Saturday some water came out of the taillight interior trim door thingy. Not much but we are supposed to get a full day of rain tomorrow so I'm planning to wash it this afternoon and cover it until I can deal with that. I think I found a machine shop. A reference from this forum whose built a few motors for the person. They sound like they know what they are doing and they have a full repair shop they run as well. I'm going to let them take off the cams and heads and all that. Hopefully I can get it there this week. Gonna send out the fuel injectors to be cleaned and the turbo is on its way to jmp. Hoping to clean the engine bay and put in the shifter bushings and transmission mounts I got this weekend. Pulled the throwout bearing (didn't realize you literally just pull it off) and the snout looks pretty good to me so I think that'll be OK. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I've got the engine out and mostly stripped down. Don't have the cam tools so the timing belt is still on it. I got the suggestion for simple performance for the tuning, but who's used a good machine shop out here. I need to get the cams off, heads removed and cleaned/flushed/inspected. I thought a friend of mine could take it as side work but he isn't able to.

As for impact guns, it would have to be battery powered. And I already own some ryobi one plus stuff so I had looked at those. Unfortunately I live in an apartment and have dedicated all my free space to bike storage. Never planned to work on cars. The outback is at a friends place in the uncovered driveway. All the work and tools are there and the house was built in 1900 so I don't have any proper access to power. Engine and lift are covered by a tarp and all my parts are in the back of the car on a tarp. Nice thing about a wagon I guess. I'd love to get a compressor. Would have at the start had I the space. I'm hoping to move and get a place with a garage or something in March. I kinda want to build a rally car after this. Maybe an e36. Gotta do something with all these tools.

I grew up in Florida so I mostly skied in NC. Was used to ice not snow. My first day in Utah a guy on the lift was complaining it was icy, that was the best day I'd ever had up until that point. Now I don't really like going out if it's sub 20f. I mean if there's good snow the crowds will be light but we get spoiled quickly.

Lol well that's exciting. Maybe I'll go get an impact driver then. Doing all this by hand has made me wonder if one would have helped early on. The terrible thing about utah, at least in this case, is that if you go south in the summer it's over 100f. Heck even in the slc valley it breaks 100f a few times a year. And then in the winter go up the cottonwoods and deal with piles of snow, granted the snow is no good if it's too cold. But that's also why I like living here.

Yea I can't find anything anywhere that says anything but it'll just rust again. Heat shields from the dealer are crazy expensive. Like 200+ for both sides and the center pipe and up pipe are crazy expensive too. I'm thinking I'll just put it back together as is and put the rusty heat shields on until they break. Maybe down the road look at crossover and up pipe replacement. My civic has a ton of exhaust leaks and missing part of the muffler and it's just so obnoxious. Mechanic friend can't take any side work for a while so I asked him for machine shop recommendations. He's rebuilt a number of these engines so I'm hoping to get a good quote from one of the shops he likes. Might end up buying the cam tools and removing the heads myself though depending on what the shop wants. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Shouldn't be... I think that's just the heat shield shape for whatever reason. It's an 08 and has the secondary air pump so it should be catless. If it's catted it's definitely coming off, which would solve some of the rusty heat shield. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk