Nonamedude

Well is there a benefit between the two? Maybe not at stock powers but I guess an increase in volume would help you run more power? I might be twisting that all around haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Perfect. That's all great advice. My hp goals are a whopping stock 243 or whatever it was. I've thought it was funny reading some threads about brakes and suspension "Well how often do you really do canyon runs?" For me uhhh weekly. Yea I plan to keep it and the only reason I thought about the DP was do to already having the engine out but I didn't realize it needs a tune for that. I guess basically anything that changes input or output requires a tune. I plan to do the rear. I can feel what people talk about with the floatiness but by comparison to what I'm used to the outback is fantastic. I had thought about lowering it but I go through the desert enough that stock height seems better. And not so much an upgrade to the struts as a replacement. I've heard the uhhh kyb struts with the king rear springs feel good, lower some body roll, and help with weight load. It's not unreasonable for me to put 4x 180lbs people, 100lbs in bikes and 100lbs in hitch into the car. Plus whatever other riding gear camping gear and coolers. No real intent to ever track, rx, do anything like that. Just fun to and from the trails and ski resorts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm currently thinking about overlapping stuff to do at the same time. (Lots of downtime until Thursday.) I figure clutch and lightweight crank pulley at least. Oil line for the turbo? Idk if painting that coolant pipe did anything for you max? I planned to do front struts and sway bar so if those are easier at the same time. And idk if a high flow dp is worthwhile. I get smogged and I'm a hippy so I'll keep the cat. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I was talking to my dad about it all. He's rebuilt one engine and replaced one (v6 and v8) and he said it's really not too bad. I've also got the time. I'll either have to wait 2 months to pay for someone to do the labor or do the labor myself. I'm also looking at replacing the clutch while I'm in there. I've reached out to jmp already and when I get it home I'll pull the turbo and see how bad it is (I'm just gonna figure it's beyond toasted). Truck and trailer would have been $1150 plus gas. Transport was $900 and bus ticket $215. They are picking up the car tomorrow for transport. I'm sort of excited, sort of terrified, sort of frustrated. But I know that in 2 years I'll look back and both enjoy the car more, trust the car more, and have a good story. I won't go into excess debt over this so it'll be fine. Once I get going I'll probably put up a thread for it all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I've been reading the rebuild threads. The sticky and Max's. I'm going to have to debate exactly what I want to do. I want to save the money and do the work but at the same time I have basically no tools or experience. I'm not a gearhead either. I like having skills so like when my civic blew a radiator hose I fixed that but this is other level obv. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK yea. I get that rates very for shop and location. I need to get the quote from them but like I said, I'm pretty sure they were just buying all new parts and assembling it. But the quote was so high I started thinking the 5k I had in my head was doing all the work yourself. I'm going through the turbo failure threads now and going to start reading the engine rebuild threads. Once I get it home and can say this is what's wrong I can shop around for pricing. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

When you say give the engine to a reputable builder, do you mean give the car and that's what you'd expect all in? Or are most people on here pulling the engine themselves and then it's 4-5k from there? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well unfortunately I do love it but it blew the turbo halfway home. I've got another thread up about it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those prices are all in. Labor parts. But the trick with the lkq used motor is he didn't know what came with it so it would likely go up from there. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I guess though I can always go the route now of maybe one is the rebuilt turbos and other stuff so hopefully in the end it's a good thing. Honestly the car is great. I love the half doors. I love the wagon. The first manual I drove was an 86 gl and I live in utah and spend time in the desert and snow and mountains. I know enough to not blame Subaru for this. The blown turbo issues sure but not this specific experience. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I think that's possible. I'm technically fourth owner (not that it's even registered yet [emoji24]) PO got it at 120k ish. Seemed like a good guy, but who knows. The shop "drained some oil and there was metal in it and you can hear rod knock" they quoted me a used 108k engine "but I don't know what parts it comes with" for $4700 or an engine rebuild for $10900. The engine rebuild sounds like they are replacing everything with just new parts, which idk I thought rebuilds usually had machining and using the old heads and block. Either way those aren't happening. I've worked with lkq engines in the past as an insurance writer. I'd want that rebuilt anyway. Gonna get a transport and get it home. I kept saying I wanted to try rebuilding and engine. Just thought I'd start with my old civic. Not a car that I owe 10k on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah OK yea that makes sense. No it's the original turbo. 154k on it at this moment. Well I'm still waiting to see what the word is but I'm guessing it's likely that I'll be renting a truck and trailer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Also would it be better to rebuild or replace the block? I want to keep the vehicle for a while so if the engine is coming out I'd rather do what's best for longevity. I have no intention of trying to run more power through the vehicle so I don't think I'd need different pistons or anything. Probably get the lightweight crank pulley put on at the same time though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea that's my thoughts. Would rod knock cause you to lose boost? I'm waiting for an actual diagnosis to decide what to do. I don't have the experience or skill to do an engine rebuild on my own as is but at least if I get it home I can do more than just take it to the one place nearby. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well the tech started the car, said it sounds like rod knock, and they haven't checked anything yet other than starting the car and are getting quotes for an engine rebuild or long block replacement. Even if that's what it actually needs, idk that I want to do that 1000 miles from home. Also no idea what that entails. Not sure if it would be better to transport it home and have a local shop do this. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well something like that would be fantastic. It might even be fixed on Monday then. I sure hope so. I was looking around trying to get an idea on prices cuz I'm bored in the parking lot and was reading a thread where someone mentioned they had a whine from their turbo and hadn't checked yet but thought it needed replacing. I would say there is a noise I've been hearing while cruising around 80. Really quiet. Gets louder/higher pitch with more throttle. I'd describe it as a humming bird screaming into a desk fan. This like high pitch noise with buffeting. But I just thought that was the noise turbos made [emoji43] maybe it was telling me this whole time it was dying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey again outblack. I couldn't have gone more than a few hundred feet from failure. It's been towed to the dealer. Oil is still good, I had just put in half a quart about 80 miles before. Haven't checked coolant. Turbo heat shield and anything else I could see looked solid. I'll check all the pulleys. It's not the crank pulley or at least that looks like it's OK still. I'm hoping it's something simple, that'd be great. Or if it's the turbo it's not the engine. Also that banjo bolt is coming off once it gets torn in to just in case. That and shrapnel seem to be the main causes of repeat failures. I had been driving for about 4 hours today and took my first hard pull from a stop when leaving the toll booth. I'm guessing that's what did it. But there was no weirdness right after and it was still making boost then (what I assume is being in boost having never had a turbo before. That breathing kick in the pants feel when you start giving it throttle) and I think I made it five miles past there. Unfortunately I absolutely LOVE this car. So it's getting repaired one way or another. And sunk cost fallacy. I just dropped 8.5k can't lose it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Update because I hate finding unanswered threads: Dealer said there is rod knock. Wants to replace everything (engine) at a measly $11k. Getting to transported home and will go from there. There is metal in the oil so likely blown turbo and blown bearings in the engine from contamination. Going to hang out here in Topeka until the shop can look at it. I'll update with the final answer in case someone finds this in the future. So I just bought an 08 OBXT 5MT in North Carolina and am driving it home to SLC utah and I think I blew the turbo outside Topeka KS. It makes this horrible rattling noise at around 2k rpm and does it whether it is in gear or not and it also feels like the power dropped out. The dealer is closed until Monday it looks like. I didn't drive it more than the time it took to slow down so I hope the engine is OK. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent. Thanks for the suggestions all. Looks like a crank pulley will be in my near future as well! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea that's what I've been gathering about the banjo bolts. But I want to keep the vehicle for a long time. Good tip on the oil. I've spent a lot of time looking at them and was given an opportunity to get one. I just want a manual awd wagon that's kinda sporty and fun. The manual and wagon part are pretty non negotiatable and I hate SUVs. Even the next generation and on outback look gross to me. Thought about lowering one and removing the roof rails. I drove a new golf sportwagen and hated it so these are kinda really the only option anymore haha. And I really do plan to keep it for 10+ years. I've had my civic since 07 and plan to keep it and make it into an art car. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry it's a 5MT So spark plugs, lifter valves, and timing belt were done 15k ago and looks like the rest of the belts about 10k ago along with radiator although I don't see a note on what fluid was used. I have a terrible sense of smell so unless it's a really noticeable thing I wouldn't get it but I'll certainly look at all that visually. I'll make sure I bring my spark plug socket with me. Unfortunately can't bring the full tool box on the plane. Front hub, wheel bearings, sway bar end links and bushings were done 2k ago and tie rods were inspected then but I can give them a tug again. My current vehicle has worn tie rods and it isn't fun. Is the crank pulley the big one? Lower center? I'll take a better look but it looked OK. I'm assuming it would be pretty obvious but what do you mean by delaminating? There is some light surface rust on the under body bits and a little more serious surface rust on the mufflers. I think it all looks alright though. It's all been detailed so the engine area looks pretty clean. I think it's been a few hundred miles. Would I be able to see any head gasket weeping in that time frame? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So Friday I'm planning to buy an 08 OBXT and then promptly drive it 2k miles from Asheville NC to SLC. It looks like it's been well taken care of. The interior looks nearly new and the current owner has all the records and recent maintenance and carfax shows that it's had all the recommended maintenance since the first owner. The rear end links are starting to show some wear and it still has the banjo bolt filter. Owner was told not to worry about it as it's had synthetic oil and 3750 OCI with the last one less than 1k miles ago. So my questions are mostly, what, if anything, do I specifically need to check before driving it cross country? Everything seems in solid shape but should I pull the banjo bolt filter? I can't actually seem to find if you do indeed need to pull the turbo on the 08 to do that. It's the original turbo but it did need the valves redone around 130k which from what I can tell is what happens when you push the car hard too often due to the stock tune. Also I've never owned a turbo car, or sporty car. I drive a 260k 99 civic right now so I don't really have a solid idea of sound or feel during boost and what have you. I do have an extra 4k or so for any sort of repairs and rebuilds. I plan to tint the windows and I'm thinking replace sway bars and end links and rear struts and springs pretty quickly. I'm not looking to do any power mods. I don't drive that hard but I like to have fun every now and then and I want to not have wonky handling when I load up 4 people, bikes, and camping gear. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unless you're planning to sell it in the future, I'd make sure it gets valued appropriately, totaled, and buy it back and get the branded title. I know I'm new but I'm a former claims adjuster and if you say every body panel has damage and it looks to be 3 stage paint so I'm just gonna guess they are estimating at 10k ish for damage estimate and then potentially using salvage value for a constructed total if that's not enough. When you're called out to a major storm like that, it's honestly a lot quicker to total the vehicles when you can since you might already be working 12 hr days. Talk to the adjuster, maybe they can save it. As far as valuation, any company worth anything pulls valuation based on the vin using comparable vehicles recently sold in the area or region depending on how many comparables. So I'd be surprised if they were trying to value it against a 2.5i and not a gt. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk