Nonamedude

Yea I'd say we don't get that much snow, and in the valley we don't, but I'm a skier and the cottonwoods get 500 plus inches a year. So it'll def see snow and salt and cold. Yea there are a bunch of brackets and stuff in that area as well that I was thinking I'd try to clean up and I'm not sure what Max ever did with his coolant crossover pipe in the front and if it lasted at all.

Really? I was hoping to prevent any rust through. I don't plan to ever change the headers and I doubt I'd change out the up pipe either. Was hoping to make them last another ten years. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Purchased from user LIVEVIL for $190 shipped. Black gimmick turbo inlet and afta maf. Currently in shipping. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well idk about the shipping. That's likely true. JMP is in Michigan though so idk if that helps or it's a customs thing. I see used Vf-40 being sold by members all the time that know what to look for. They've usually upgraded and can say if it has shaft play and will give good pictures. Check here and NASIOC. That's where I'd start. Frequently they've been rebuilt already. After that I'd do the same thing but look at a used vf-52 which are more reliable. Either a Vf-46 or 52 will need new boost pills. But a 46 won't need a retune. If your turbo core is still fine, I'd think the best thing would be to check local forums here and NASIOC for someone who can rebuild it. Also when you say it went do you mean it's going out or did you have a catastrophic failure? Are you sure it doesn't need a block? Checked the oil for metals? I'd hate to see you put money into a turbo and blow it again in 10k when they money should either go to a new car or a full rebuild. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I had tried the hammer but I think the 3/8 is just flexing too much. I took tehnations advice and just went and bought a 1/2" breaker bar 2ft long at harbor freight. I have the grimmspeed tool (because I got frustrated) and a good jump up onto both of those got it off. Also got my headers off. The heat shields are pretty terrible and it looks like the heat shield on the up pipe isn't removable. A couple of the bolt threads broke off. I'm thinking I'll buy new heat shields and heat paint them. I'd like to clean up the headers and paint them as well. Any advice for cleaning up rust like this? I'm going to get the timing cover off and a few more oil lines and coolant lines and reach out to my mechanic friend and see if he wants to trade final tear down and inspection for the short block. Taking a break now due to rain. Joys of having no where to work. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That right there. If you're not going to upgrade or trying for more power, get a vf40 and don't bother with all the pills and shit. That said if you're running more than stock, why not do it right and have a more reliable car? Jmp doesn't charge much more for a rebuild, assuming that your core is still good. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well if you want lower than legacy height, you'll be lowering either. And I imagine suspension would be the easier way to go unless you're happy with stock lgt suspension and don't plan to upgrade it. Sounds like the obxt is better mechanically. Or at least they already have the info to show you what you'd want. Leakdown and compression that is. I'd ask on either what all was done and why. I'm rebuilding my engine right now but also replacing a bunch of unneeded stuff. Group n mounts on engine and transmission, Shifter bushings, Extra seals, tgv deletes, clutch and flywheel. A lot of stuff I could likely get away with not. Also what year obxt? Did the 05lgt still have the catted up pipe? I have awkwardly short arms so the 08/09 extending steering wheel was a desire for me. What about radio? Do they have the jdm swap? Do you care? An 08/09 with an aux port was enough for me to wait on that. Also let me tell you. Having a car die a plane flight away from home in the middle of nowhere needing a trailer is both expensive and frustrating. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea figured out the 12 point problem lol. I've gone out and bought a number of 6 sided ones since I've started. All my stuff is 3/8 drive so I bought the longest breaker bar Amazon had. I'll likely go buy a cheater pipe since I don't have one. All this is making me want to buy a house so I have some place to store my tools haha. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good call on the oil filler neck. I'll make sure that gets a new gasket. Valve cover will get taken care of in the rebuild. The issue isn't holding the crank pulley still now. I think the bolts just corroded badly. My breaker bar is only 18" and I'm watching it flex quite a bit. I either need more strength or a cheater pipe. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got off early today so did some more work. There is a ton of metal particles easily visible in the oil filter. I couldn't feel any real play in the rod, no different from the new short block, but it does look like it's been smacking things. The driver side valve cover has a lot of oil on it. I'm thinking just from people who can't fill it smoothly. Drivers plugs Passenger I think they have about 20k on them but the drivers side look kinda grimy? The coil packs also seem to be separating I guess? Not sure if it's just the bracket or what it is. Still can't get the crank pulley off. Going to hit it with more penetrating spray and then maybe the torch if it's still stubborn tomorrow. Might need another set of hands and a cheater bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sweet sounds like a leave well enough alone thing then. Yea I tried twisting them. With two people and Vise grips and pliers. I noticed from pictures, the 05-06 are different. Definitely gonna spin those clamps though so I can access them. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As far as the fuel lines, I absolutely plan to swivel those around. I also don't plan to reinstall that bolt so I can take off just the intake manifold if I ever need to in the future. That said. All those lines are impossible to remove from the hard lines. I don't have much fear of them leaking from a loose connection but should I replace them? I can't really seem to get them off but they look pretty gross. I pulled them off the little uhhh bell shaped things by the firewall (terrible idea, should have just bought the quick release tool) and damaged those lines so I'll at least need those new. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hope not! But either way it's getting all new parts after this much time effort and money. Good friend of mine and long time mechanic who rebuilds subies for fun has interest in the block. If there is no metal in it but something wrong with the crank or pistons (he's rebuilding one with a shot rod bearing right now) I might be able to trade him the block for the labor of head tear down, inspection, cleaning, machining, and reassemble onto my new block. Best tip ever. Absolutely will do. I ended up going and getting an even bigger pry bar and between the 36" crow bar leverage and the pb blaster, it finally popped right off. That makes sense though because when it did the engine dropped a half inch. I'd been terrified it was going to swing into the condensor.

Yea I've read about it but it doesn't seem to be a huge issue. And I'm pretty sure the windage tray is absolute overkill but I figured why not. I'm not sure if contamination of the oil pickup is a huge concern. It looks like a pipe so I'm thinking it'd be easy to clean out? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Max- Yea I still need to remove the oil pick up and what I'm guessing is the windage tray and stuff to get to the rod. I'm guessing that's where I'll see my problem. Can't rotate the dang engine on the stand to save my life though. It was also dark so I'll try to take a look at the oil pan with natural light instead of that big light I was working with. XT- Yea I just figured I would replace most anything that touches the oil just because. I already ordered a new OE pan with the killer b pick up and windage tray. It looks like the OE one is ok but I figured why not.

Well did some more work today. Started with a ton of pictures of where everything was connected for future reference. Then drained the oil. Didn't see any metal in it. Maybe I'm misunderstanding but I figured metal would be obvious. The dealer told me there was metal in the oil when they drained a little during their assessment. Got the air octopus off, that's what I've been calling it. I think it's actually the air intake manifold? Had to take off the tgv with it if course. Took a bit too figure out. The fuel lines are still attached to it because holy hell removing them from the hard lines is impossible. Maybe a special tool would help? Looks like my fuel injectors have been replaced. Marked as denso but didn't look up the part number. Anyone know anything about these. I thought OE were yellow tops. I'll probably get them cleaned and tested and all that. Also noticed the turbo side of my turbo inlet looked kinda shiny? I don't think that's supposed to be like that. TGV look good though. Not like covertrussian did. I was thinking of pulling off the butterfly valve and cutting out the divider bar and leaving the motor and butterfly bar in place. I only have a dremel so maybe it's not worth the effort but I thought while I had them out. Don't want to have to retune and fix the CEL when I first get it back together. Here's where I left it. Pulled the oil pan. Should have waited until it was farther along but I was hoping to see something of why I'm doing all this. I was working by a shop light so maybe I'm wrong but I couldn't see any metal in the oil pan either. Just some of the weird gasket goop I had to break away with the chisel. Shouldn't metal be more obvious? At this point I just want to know what caused this endeavor. I'll get to it eventually I'm sure. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got it. Need to run to the store and grab some different washers and bolts for better mounting to the stand and that's probably where I call it today. Not sure what's next. I guess start stripping it down. Inspect everything and go from there. That last picture is the snout people talk about the throwout bearing messing up? It looks solid to me. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Awesome thanks for the tips. It's def the pins. I've gotten the passenger side lose and working on the driver. Just soaked it with more pb blaster. I've been supporting the trans as it comes up and I've got a load leveler so I've been trying to angle it and stuff. The shaft may be binding but I think it's just that the pin is stuck. Might need a different pry bar. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well had to work this morning so didn't get started until the evening. Took a look at a bunch of stuff and I'm nearly positive I got everything disconnected. Took a look at how people were mounting the hoist and took the ac compressor off the bracket and mounted there and at this big ol bracket attached by the transmission. I got a really big gap but I'm stumped on why it's not releasing. The gap is wider than my chisel and the shaft of the big flat head so I'm not sure. Any thoughts? Called it for the night. Released everything and made sure the motor was in the mount placements and not sitting on the bolts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It started making a sudden loud hammering/clattering noise and I lost boost (while driving on the highway.) I towed it to a dealer and they said there was rod knock and it needed an engine and there was metal in the oil. So those are the assumptions that I'm laboring under. I'm thinking I might as a toast rod bearing. I'm not sure. I was driving cross country when it happened and I've never had a vehicle like this so I'm not great with the noises. No CEL or anything. I should have the old engine out tomorrow so maybe I'll have a better idea then. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Short block arrived last night! Pretty excited. Is there anything I need to check for on it? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK sweet. Doesn't sound like much an issue. Good to know I can get them cleaned and tested. I'll do that while I have the engine out. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I'll give it a good running over before I actually attach the hoist. Vacation pics say to remove the pitch stop and support the trans but I swear I've seen photos of an engine removed with it still on. Right now I'm trying to gather everything and order parts. So far I have: Short block, oil pump, gasket kit on the way Excedy oem clutch and flywheel Lightly used oil cooler from a not blown engine ARP head studs Grimmspeed lwcp Gates stretch ac belt Still need to source: Spark plugs (easy) Timing belt and tensioner (I think consensus is to use aisin over gates?) Water pump Alternator/accessory belt or whatever it's called Group n engine, trans, pitch stop mounts (having a hard time with this one) Pcv valve (will check when engine is out) Shifter bushings Fuel lines (mine are now messed up) Turbo inlet (mine is torn) A lot of vendors don't list the obxt as being compatible with parts that work for the lgt or don't list either. Rallispec wanted crazy shipping for the mounts. Rallysportdirect doesn't seem to have the transmission mount? With shifter bushings it just seems like everyone and their brother makes them. I'll likely order a sts and just get whichever the corresponding company is. Waiting to hear from jmp about the turbo. Is there any benefit to changing out any of the hoses, oil or coolant, with new and or braided lines? Seems like something people do on bigger turbos but I'm guessing that's for increasing volume of flow. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Having trouble finding a good answer to this. Some internets say 50-100k to replace, which seems low to me. Also read 1bil cycles and best I can figure at 2k rpm avg 150k miles is like 150mil cycles. So the question is, with stock turbo, engine out of the car, and 150k miles, should I go ahead and replace the fuel injectors? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Looking for an aftermarket turbo inlet for my 08 OBXT. Don't know that I desire one brand over another but can't be crazy colors. Unless it's purple. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk