Nonamedude

So I have the a/c compressor and power steering pump on now. Went to put on the alternator and realized idk what order all these washers on the drive side bolt (there's three. Two large one small). Thought maybe I'd leave it until I do belts, plenty else to do. I also learned that I have the wrong oil dipstick tube. It angles slightly left and interferes with the secondary air pump. I remember not being able to get the original out with the timing covers on (I bent it badly). I'm debating on bending this one into position. I can't imagine it's any easier to change. Vacation pics has no answers I could find. Also realized my engine cover likely won't fit over that turbo inlet. Likely working a half day Wednesday, so maybe I can get a bunch more done.

Hope that solves it! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I'm actually practicing polishing on an old civic. First one I did was certainly an improvement but took out some over deep gouges. Gonna get it down there and then do the outback later along with an hid retrofit. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I think it probably took a total of five hours or so. I think it helped that I changed the lift mount points to better balance the engine. It was much easier today. Today's difficulty was because any time I needed to think about what I was doing, I had to go inside. But the engine is back in. Now time to start bolting stuff up. Turbo, ac, ps steering, alternator, all that fun jazz. I talked to Dave at cryo and he said breaking it in on the stock tune would be fine. I had a forum member from nasioc offer to come by with a tactrix cable but when the engine gave me difficulties I told him not to worry. I have my own showing up this week. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

It looks like it's moving straight. Glad I don't need to take the whole thing out again. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

After what seems like an eternity, finally got the engine back into my outback. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ah crap I hope it didn't. I'll check that. I should just be able to pivot it around yea? Should I be able to work the clutch now without issue or do I need all the bolts in to make sure that feels right? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I decided I was confident and brought it that last 1/4" with one trans bolt and one starter bolt. Had someone checking the crank pulley wasn't binding as it was slowly brought together. It's officially in. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the input shaft is definitely in. It'll still spin unless you put it in gear, which I didn't think about. It's got maybe a 1/4" apart and I can't really tell what it's hanging up on. There's nothing in between, the dowel pins are just on the edge, the bottom bolts are out the back of the trans. It feels like I should just pull it together the rest of the way with the bolts. I can rock it side to side and see the dowel pins move in, but I can't push it straight back. Raising or lowering either the trans or engine doesn't do it and I just can't think of what it's hanging up on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unfortunately my other person is 5'2 and was having a hard time helping much. Turbo was hitting so that got pulled off. Good suggestion on having someone spin the wheels. I couldn't really tell if that was the issue or not. But I'm not really sure what else it could be. There's nothing else there. Couldn't see anything and trying to grab a phone pic didn't help. I was worried the shaft was way off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You don't need auto leveling headlights for dot compliance. Most cars don't have them but it's nice when you put some weight in the back. Also if you wanna get technical, changing to hid, or any mechanical changes to your engine or exhaust likely violates some federal rule for on road operation. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well after about 3 hours of struggling, I gave up trying to put the engine in. I can't get it to mate up with the trans. I can get the two long studs off the engine into the transmission but it doesn't want to go further and it's not hung up on the engine mounts. I've tried changing the angle, jamming it around, moving it from under the car, a second set of hands to work the lift, jacking up the rear of the car, jacking up the transmission and various combinations of these. Best I can tell is the main shaft isn't going into the clutch. Maybe daylight and sleep will help, although it's supposed to be snowing and 34 in the morning. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're absolutely correct. That makes sense why I didn't label it, it's not going back on. I'll label it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can anyone help identify this bracket? I know of the uppipe to head and the one that goes to the turbo heat shield. Unfortunately I didn't label this one.

No for sure. I suppose I should have added in for stock or close to stock ride height. Many sites don't even list the outback and I just use the legacy. I want to see how the summer goes before lowering mine any. I get into the desert on occasion. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So I'll have to look again but on my 08 the oil cooler is double that size and I swear it goes straight into the block, nothing else. There's also nothing else in my fsm. 08 not 07 but I didn't think they changed much. The images from maxcapacitys rebuild of his 05 also doesn't look like that. I don't think you need to worry about the other seals. I didn't watch the whole video but I think you are just worried about that one in the cooler. That he says is all you need on the NA vehicles. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the water pump pushes straight to that tank and heater core. I think the large one goes to the top of the radiator so that's likely flow to the radiator. One on the back is coolant to the turbo. Most of the coolant to the radiator comes out the block. That's an expansion tank so you're likely right. I've not looked inside it but I'm guessing it's baffled somehow to prefer flow to the turbo. It must get hot and expand and go big line to radiator and the small line is for air or expansion in extreme cases. So ya that makes sense. I'm still kinda new to all this. There's so many hoses and lines on these dang things. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've only done springs once and on my civic. I wasn't a fan. But it's not really that bad. I think King makes the stock height outback overload springs but I don't know about for the LGT wagon. I think you have a LOT of options. I'd start by looking for overload springs, which are great for carrying any weight in the rear. I would think those would be best for keeping stock height but I will defer to others on this.

Yea they are pressed in. There is definitely info about replacing them or patching them with window weld if you look around though. Commom problem with the solution being stiffen everything or stop launching. Our cars apparently do it just by flooring it in first though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea for sure. And unfortunately I don't have an answer. These are mine before being pulled off. Previous owner got a new radiator about 20k ago. I'd guess one hose was replaced another wasn't. Silicone will hold up longer but supposedly rubber is better for coolant. I'd give them a squeeze, if they are still soft they are fine. In reality it's probably just a cosmetic thing. If that's your problem, you could get some wire loom or a nice woven sleeve and slide them over. Keep it looking pretty like the rest of the engine bay. Still would love to hear someone's thoughts as to why they do that though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea I'd just go get oem hoses. I think all three cost me uhhh $40? I'm doing an engine rebuild so it basically got all new coolant and vacuum hoses. But oe. Didn't mess with fancy stuff at all. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well you've got many more options in the lgt wagon than I do on the outback. But the basis is correct as mentioned above. Tighter rear more over steer. So if your struts are in good shape and you've got an upgraded rear sway then you may just need an overall stiffer suspension or maybe stiffer rear springs. I think all the bracing is really meant for those guys on the track. It seems the feel change is subtle on the road. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You're correct on the routing. Not sure on the powder stuff. I'll say that silicone is supposed to be not great for fluids due to it losing liquid to permeating. But that seems to be kinda a hot button for people. Did you get new hoses there? They aren't too expensive. I've just ordered some so I'll be interested to know the answer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

There's a sticky in transmissions that boils down to the rear diff bushings are soft, so when you give it the goods everything twists up and the rear diff hits the floor. Apparently those bushings aren't easy to replace but as maasia said, check that. One thing that helps it is group n engine and trans mounts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been seeing more about the steering. Does it make much difference? I've basically not gotten to drive my obxt and I'm coming from a completely beat civic. So even the rear wagon sway bar feels great to me. Can you quantify the steering? Less floaty? Quicker lock? Does it have an issue with progressive weird feelings in hard corners as stock? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk