Nonamedude

Made some more slow progress. Ran into an issue with the turbo inlet and not having the hose fittings to use. The breather hose is 5/8" and the pcv is 1/2" and lowes and home depot didn't have anything. Everything else was closed. Thinking I might run the bcs and evap on a tee since they are the same size instead. Not sure how much a concern flow really is through these hoses. I think the person I bought it from only used 3 of the 4 ports. Got the turbo on and wiring a lot of the stuff. Still routing some things and might take a weekday off to finish up assembly and be able to get to stores when they are open. At least home depot had the screw for the pcv to manifold I lost. M6x1.0 12mm Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I thought that wasn't until like 20+psi that anything had those issues? The new perrin are mesh reinforced so you might be able to squeeze it some. If not you can always do some cheap mods to resolve that issue if worried. Not sure it'll be a problem on a vf52, not until after upgrading fueling at least. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sometimes you go to long between disassembly and reassembly. I'm not sure if there's supposed to be something in these two threaded holes. One is on the drive tgv, on the passenger side the cover thing that goes over the fuel lines has two spots, the driver side has one. The other photo is next to the oil fill neck. I don't recall anything being there before but idk. Edit: I've looked through my pics, the fsm, and a few rebuild threads and such and as far as I can tell, nothing goes there.

Yea if it's drained I'd just go ahead and replace all the hoses down there. Mine were swollen like a balloon. And go ahead and check the others you can reach just in case. I didn't do that on my civic and got to keep draining coolant to replace stuff one at a time. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep better tmic or at least the bulletproof mod. I think leaks are common around 17+ psi. That intake is fine though save the money and put it into the intercooler or tune. I'm assuming it's tuned right now? Did you just get the vehicle? Cobb AP? If it's not you need a tune with aftermarket ebcs has been my understanding. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well if you keep the engine healthy, which is pretty cheap, you can always rebuild using that block. Stock block and everything seems to be good to 325 ish maybe more? And then it's just piston issues it seems. So I'd tell you to keep it healthy and put money away for your 10k giant turbo, fmic, better clutch, better injector, better fuel pump rebuild. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well I got the fuel injectors and rails in place for the most part. Seem to have misplaced the bolts that go to the intake for the fuel lines but I'm sure I'll find them. And easy to access and not critical anyway. I think bent was the right word for them. They did not want to line up at all but they are bolted down now and I don't think they are putting any lateral stress on the injectors. Depending on weather tomorrow, hopefully I can connect the rest of the vacuum lines, do the turbo inlet, and put on the turbo itself. This is the piece on the intake manifold I was talking about. Unlike the fuel lines, I don't think this bolt will turn up. Before the intake manifold is on. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Some of those sure would have helped yesterday! Man I need to remember to look through your thread when I get stuck. I pulled the uhhh metal bracket and nipple thing off the back of the intake manifold, where the small hose from the pcv connects. Well turns out that's a "non serviceable part" and I lost one of the two screws. I'll try to measure the other one and likely order from McMaster Carr. Fuel rails don't seem to want to line up either, almost like they are twisted or bent. I'm wondering if it's because of the cold (sub 50). My work space today to try to protect me from the light and potentially heavier rains later. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So today I'm getting to work out all the craziness that is vacuum hoses and intake Manifold. My fuel lines don't want to come off so it's a mess of parts. Have a used gimmick motorsports turbo inlet I'm going to use. I'm seeing two ways of doing routing. One where you tee the pcv hose into the valve cover breather hose (I'm not sure which hose that is) or to tee the evap to the boost control like the cobb sti instructions. I didn't take good enough pictures I've learned. I thought I did. But I keep finding them lacking. And all the walk throughs are on cars. Oh well. I'm going to hopefully get most everything back on today after another parts run. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think they are all place holders while parts and pictures are gathered. It's sad boxkita is leaving but I think a lot of us are interested in what gets put up. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep I see it. OK yea it certainly doesn't look like it should go that way but I couldn't make heads or tails of it. I tried testing it on the block and on the cross member. I'll spin them around. Appreciate the pictures. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So you're saying rotate the bracket on the block? I finally found an image of one from a thread I've referenced a few times but kept missing the picture. I'll take a better look at mine tomorrow if it doesn't rain too much. https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/group-n-engine-mounts-81119.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can anyone confirm the orientation of the group n mounts for me? I have the bracket marked L on the driver side. Only photo I could find was blurred by photobucket. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Listen to max. He actually has a spec b. Assuming it hasn't already been sorted out by now Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well aside from agreeing with tehnation, for braking, make sure you do a fluid flush. Feel free to change out your rotors but I think good pads will likely do more than fancy rotors. And make sure your tires are good, cuz if you can lock up your brakes already, rotors won't make much difference in an emergency stop situation. All of the brake upgrades are more for extended periods of hard braking. Reducing fade and stuff like that. I know it's not what you want to here, but flush your fluid first and I think you'll be surprised. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea the Spec B should match the sti. I know excedy does the 5mt clutches, I think they do the 6mt as well. Most people on here do the pull the trans method. Look up covertrussians build thread. He has it in there, only major difference is the 6mt is a pull type so there's an extra thing to disconnect as your willing the bell housing back. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This is good for guidelines of what works and what doesn't. Brakes: How to buy brake upgrades? https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=5383&share_tid=8151&url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D8151&share_type=t&link_source=app The gist is, lgt brakes are pretty good. The sti brembo (4 or 6 pot) are upgrades if you're doing track stuff. The wrx 4 pot are a downgrade and change the feel. There is also a wilwood 4 piston kit that's no longer made that's supposed to be solid. I've never seen a for or against any specific rotors. It seems that the stock blanks work really well for most people. Most people still on the forums are either using reman stock brakes or full on race cars. Most responses for a daily driver car are flush and different pads. If you told us what car you have and your intended use of the brake upgrade, you'll get better responses. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From another thread asking about top hats. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The group n should fit fine. I'm pretty sure the oe wrx are different than the group n anyway but the group n mounts are different part numbers for each point. I could be wrong, rally sport direct claims they'll fit am 08 legacy but that's not necessarily the best way to determine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I wouldn't advise it. I did the headliner in my civic and taking it out makes it both better and honestly easier. Hitting all those creases, trying to glue it all without getting glue everywhere, holding pressure. If you're already pulling the trim off, the headliner shouldn't be much more difficult. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well if you end up going OE strut mounts, why not go for the group N ones? They are about the same price.

These are really good points. The second is straight forward. But I hadn't thought about the first. Common issue on bicycles. You've possibly worn both the starter gear and the flywheel and now with the new flywheel they don't want to mate up. DIY Starter Repair. How-to: Remove, Disassemble, Grease, Reinstall (w/pics) https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/topic?share_fid=5383&share_tid=218329&url=https%3A%2F%2Flegacygt%2Ecom%2Fforums%2Fshowthread%2Ephp%3Ft%3D218329&share_type=t&link_source=app As max capacity said though could just have been a mistake. And yes I agree with your plan to exchange it all even though it's a huge pain. I'm not excited about having to pull my flywheel and my engine is still on the stand. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Making it work probably isn't a great option. I bought the wrong flywheel and just plan to sell it locally as there are tons of subaru owners in utah. Gonna suck if you damage your starter or something like that. Yea I had my old stuff and realized why things weren't lining up and the good people here confirmed I bought a non turbo flywheel. Other alternatives to save money are resurfacing your old flywheel or picking up a used compatible one on nasioc and getting it resurfaced if it's still in spec. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I think I might try to get some of the brz wheels from the performance package. 17x7.5 +48. I'd like to keep the sidewall height for when I'm in the desert but seeing as how shralp is running the 235/50/18 without issue, I'll just have to see what I come across when the time comes. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Luckily I've got another. One came with the flywheel and one with the clutch kit. I'm hoping I can get near everything, including the turbo, this weekend. But it might rain/snow so we'll see. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk