DougKelly20

OK, well, tuning is complete! I hear stock is about 189-190WHP and these are the eDynos the tuner uses. They look weird because...CVT. Gained about 20 HP from just a KNN and the tune. Another 30 HP after the aFe intake and custom exhaust with retune.

Other than factory alignment I don't see anything in that list that constitutes geometry changes, and certainly not to sway bar component dimensions or sway bar bushings. That's good info though, thanks!

Should be the same all the way through 2019 in the rear.

I can't address the question about availability of aftermarket FSB options, but I will say that my understanding was that a sway bar doesn't impact you at all while driving straight and wouldn't likely have any affect of the car wandering. I will say, that though my bar is tight, the drivers side was always problematic when changing my struts. Both when I went to lowering springs and then to coilovers I had to use a Jack on the endlink to push it up for enough to put it back into the strut mount. I did not have to do that on the passenger. It's not exactly what you are experiencing but just another weird fact about the OEM bar. If you can't find aftermarket I'd replace the bushings and endlinks with OEM and see if it fixes it.

Yeah...gonna have to raise the coilovers a bit I think.

Exhaust and intake are in! Exhaust was fabbed with my lame ass measurements, and the 5th gen for reference so there were a few small issues which I'll help the guy correct. It hangs down about an inch further than it needs to and the O2 sensors had to be accommodated for....essentially another inch or so was required to be added to the bank 2 downstream sensor, and the floor needed to be dented in to accommodate bank 1's down stream sensor. I think moving the cats back 2 inches would fix both or rotating bank 1 15-20 degrees toward the center. I had an ultra quiet vibrant resonator added and 2.5 inch piping all the way to the rear Y where it goes 2.25 to meet the nameless axle backs. It's super loud. Great tone, but it might be a bit much....well see.

Installed the Takeda intake finally after waiting on my exhaust project to complete (which it did, yesterday). Now I have a header back customs exhaust and an intake...retuning starts tomorrow. In prep for a retune I also changed my plugs.... Not the easiest job ever, but honestly cyl 6 is really the crux of it. The rest wasn't bad. Took about 5-6 hours for plugs and intake, with a lunch break. I give the takeda a 4 out of 5 for quality and fitment. No major issues just a few petty complaints.

You CAN however have the new key coded to the existing one by the right locksmith. I went through the dealership to find a guy locally they use and our second key works just as the first.

I've had no issues since doing it myself with needlenose pliers and then putting the brake on and off 5 times after the job. I use my ebrake a few times a week and I tracked it right after with no issues. Stoptech also makes good pads.

Headers finally came in after 6 months of back and forth, including 2 months of production and a whole month of shipping fiasco. I have an appointment to get them installed, assuming they fit, this coming Friday!

Update, I got some OE style replacements from O'Reilly's (because the dealership wanted $210 for the set) and had some trouble putting in the right side one...i wish I'd have started on the left with the whitelines....it appears my control arm was slightly out of tolerance and I had to hammer the new end link down into it. On the left side I was able to slide it in without use of a hammer. Having already started the return with Amazon and installed the new OE styles I wasn't going to muck about with the whitelines again, but of note...it is POSSIBLE that they DO also fit. At this point I'm just glad it's done

Well...had a rough time this week with the sway bar upgrade on my partner's 2018 3.6R. She wants the bars but not the springs/coils which makes a ton of sense. Best bang for the buck....but...being in the northeast and having 2-3 winters on the car, BOTH end links stripped out their hex counterhold...dumbest design BTW...due to rust. So I thought I'd cut them off and buy whiteline. Amazon said they were compatible. The cutting was near impossible even with a dremel given the space I had so I took the bar out with links attached. Victory! Only to find the whitelines were too long in the LCA mount by a mm or too. Don't have the tools to grind them down so.....guess I have to wait for new OEM ones from the dealership. Don't want the Moog's because of the need to fill with grease all the time so options are limited. Was a 30 minute job on my 19 when it was new....but that's the way it goes in the northeast. I can't wait until the aftermarket catches up for the 6th gen like they have for 4th and 5th...

Fixed a bunch of fine scratches and a few deep ones on my girl's 3.6R. Not very good at the deep ones yet but enjoying the learning process.

Yes I was talking about window trim, sorry I should have quoted.

Yeah I did too but had to do it myself because there was no "kit." (2019).

Man I wish they had this for the 6th gen. Took me 10 hours to chrome delete with vinyl...knifeless tape...95 degree heat...it was brutal. Love the result tho.

If you rotate every oil change you'll be fine. If you get a hole in a tire and it can't be patched buy 4 new ones and you'll be fine. Most people won't have issues with this but we bought a second 3.6R recently and the lesee allowed the dealership to fully replace a single tire when 13K were on the other 3. A tread depth gauge (very cheap tool I got at the auto parts store) showed a difference in depth of 2mm. Slight shaking could be felt in the wheel. We immediately had 4 new tires put on at partial cost to the dealership and it drives without any wheel vibration now.

No DTCs. Engine Oil temp was nearing 240...not sure if that's relevant. There MIGHT be some kind of fail-safe in my custom tune, I didn't really think about it. I'll ask Ed.

Had a blast on the NY safety track Friday with the Got Track motor sports club out of long island. First time at full speed on a big boy track and surrounded by porches, lambos vettes and beemers but I still had a lot of fun. Learned a lot, especially about tire pressures, and that the 3.6R brakes are very solid. I didn't time my laps, to focus on the fundamentals, but I was definitely gaining speed throughout the day. Only on one session did I push the car too hard and it cut me down to 4k rpm... No lights...i think the cvt had had enough, so I did a cool down lap and pitted. I was very surprised what the big boat is capable of. If you're on the fence about tracking your daily, you should go for it.

Try touching and holding the RAB icon in the lower left of the backup screen when you engage reverse. This disables rear advanced braking. It may not disable the alarm but it won't slam the brakes on you if it thinks the bike is an obstacle. The remote start.. IIWII. Subaru doesn't want someone breaking in and driving away I guess...

Sorry to hear that. We love both our 3.6Rs and it sucks you didn't get the optimal experience.

Changed to fresh pads on my 3.6R for my track day Friday. First time working on an electronic rear brake. Was very easy to turn the piston in with just a set of pliers. Very little force/torque required, so no need for the special tool, which I was happy about.

Check to make sure the tire tread matches all around. Get the past service records and see if the typical 30k stuff was done, brake fluid, diff oil, air Filters (engine, cabin), fresh oil...then try to get them to perform those as part of the sale. We had some battery terminal corrosion on both our 3.6Rs around then so check both. Other than that it should be an awesome car with no other issues at that mileage.

The "i" means something requires your attention. In this case "check engine" is what provoked it. If you don't have a scanner it needs to go to the shop.

Very similar to the last few posts in this thread. Read up, but you should be good.