DougKelly20

Also, really impressed with the DWS06+ 245s at the track....shaved 6 sec off my lap time over the 225 older Yokohama's I had

Well....track event went well for the most part besides a small off roading excursion that left the car mostly fine save for some scratches on the lip of the rim... CVT cooler performed well. Ambient temps were mid 80s, CVT stayed under 230 where it was normally 250 and it got there slower. Last couple weeks on the street the highest the temps go are 170 where I was seeing 190+ before. Most notably temps are climbing more slowly than before. Unlike oil and coolant temps you don't see it spike, and you don't really see it ever drop much. It's still not a track car and I don't run the full 20 minute sessions but I'm much more confident that I'm not burning up the fluid as fast. Still plan to change every 50k.

You can also rent them for free from advance auto. Edit: ok so I actually watched about half the video and I'd say for the first video you've ever done the quality of the videography and sound and presentation of the content was actually fairly good. I don't make videos but I certainly watch a lot of them and I couldn't tell that it was your first. I think the challenge for you is that there are various issues with your actual content. Specifically already discussed the relative danger and awkwardness of using zip ties like that, but also the jack points and use of a vice grip. On the 17mm lower strut bolts most people use a wrench or a second socket with a breaker bar. Vice grips are clumsy and could damage the bolt. Lastly while YOU didn't damage your side skirt, it's a much better idea to use the front and rear jack points (cross member and rear diff) to get the whole car up in the air. That's what those are for. In summary I don't feel like your mechanical prowess is at the level where you should be teaching things to others on these topics. I hope that doesn't come across harshly, but just honestly.

So today I picked up my 3.6R from getting the CVT cooler in and flush done. It was 48K on it and see's track and harsh street driving so I wanted to keep things cool. Track temps were pushing 250F so I'm hoping this will keep them around 200 or less. I have my next track day on July 8th so I'll update my post then. For those curious, they do use a flush kit and it's not cheap. Granted I'll have an extra qt or so with the lines and cooler, but it took 10 qts of fluid at 24 bucks each, as well as some 68 dollar parts charge for the "kit." I'm not sure if that's just them amortizing the cost of whatever apparatus is used to actually flush across their very few customers who get this done or what... Then the labor was almost 150 for a grand total of 449.99 for the flush service. I obviously paid more for all the labor to install the cooler and lines which involved removing the bumper, battery, and headlight, so for anyone else looking to get this done budget 1500 all in. Kinda feels like a lot, but with a new CVT being 5k I consider it an investment to treat the existing one the best I can. Very few legacy's see track duty or tow, but if you do it's something to consider. Right away the ratio transitions (read: fake shifts) felt smoother from the fresh fluid. Given the battery was out though it's still relearning throttle, tune and knock limits so I'll know more in a few days as well as street driving temps which would push 180 after an hour driving around in 80 degree weather before.

Check out Chris fix's video on deep scratch repair for an in depth guide to chips and scratches which include rust. That and the fine scratch video were very helpful in understanding exactly what you're doing.

Just scheduled mine for next week....I asked which they do and they said flush....but I'm also having a CVT cooler installed, so they are going to have to run it and fill it a few times anyway.

Finally got back on the road!!! Much better fitment this time!

Damn.....that's some stretch!

I finally received 90% of my fixed exhaust parts back yesterday from inferno and installed them. I say 90% because they forgot to send the Y pipe back, but hopefully I'll have that this weekend. I will add some pictures when it's all together but the fitment is fantastic now. The headers tuck neatly between the frame rails and there is no longer any risk of hitting objects in the road. The welds are perfect and the construction is very high quality. I think we can/should now add inferno to the 3.6R mod list for the 6th gen now that his measurements are dialed in. I'll ask him for a direct link to the product once we're 100% installed and happy.

Very interested in the results Humble. My redone headers come today from inferno (other ones lost a fight w a pothole) and I can't wait to get back on the road after 3 months....

Do you know specifically what you're trying to read/do or is this just general research like "I want the tool that can do the most?"

Some parts fit, others don't. I have had a good experience with BC racing BR coilovers on my 3.6R. I know there are a couple other companies that make product specific to the legacy, but shared parts I'm sure about would include rear lower control arms, rear sway bars and end links, and that's about it. Spring rates will be different, so if you're looking for lowering springs go with H&Rs specific to the legacy. Some guys on here recommend their Koni setups as well especially for street use and longevity.

Means planning to. It's a contraction of "fitting to"

Yeah, I've found the shipping costs are the big drawback to these sites. I needed a couple exhaust bolts and they were twice as much to ship as to buy, but for more expensive but not huge items you might find a sweet spot. My grille was actually in that category.

I seriously doubt these will fit. 8.5 +35 wasn't going to fit when I was looking/measuring. If you roll and tuck and pull and camber MAYBE....but I doubt it.

Decent coilovers for the street: 900-1200 dollars (2 years ago ...not sure not with all the supply issues). Complexity of install: slightly less than springs alone and much less than cut a strut BS. Lots of adjustment options. Springs ...200-400, fixed height, not adjustable, requires also disassembling the strut assembly. If you add cut a strut konis ...in my opinion the amount of effort for a similar and yet still less adjustable result isn't worth the cost savings. However, if you never go to the track you might not care about any of the effort or adjustability to improve your street drivability. As with every choice in life it comes down to "what are you trying to accomplish?"

Do all other aspects of your remote function properly? Door lock/unlock button? Using the promixity sensor to just touch the inside of the handle? Panic button?

19 is the cutoff for the 3.6R and I highly recommend it. I have 2. Been very solid. Can't speak to the 20+s they took away the 6 and added a turbo to the highest models so it depends on your preference.

"Whiteline kit contains 6.1kg/mm (329lb/in) front rated springs that provide a 20mm drop while the 5.8kg/mm (325lb/in) rated rears deliver a desirable 20mm to the vehicle." From their website (had this saved in a note while figuring stuff out for mine). I did NOT have KONI shocks with these and they were super bouncy...also they raked the car pretty noticeably. I ditched them for BCs so I hope you have a better experience. Keep us posted.

150 to 160ish here in Upstate NY

Well, the headers were great for 9 months or so....NY winters and a lowered car aren't the best recipe for success. I hit a huge pothole and damaged the headers enough to break the seal at the vband. Inferno agreed to make me new ones and make some changes since they sagged a bit low. Probably will take 3-6 weeks or more so I'm gonna grab a beater in the meantime. Once the parts come back I'll also have the dealership throw on the CVT cooler I ordered. Should be ready by June to start hitting the track again!

Very simple. Pop clips, remove bumper, screws behind the grille. Will take 45 minutes tops between jacking it up and putting the tools away. I recommend a second pair of hands to help get the bumper back in, but it can be done alone. Might even be a sticky on it....

There's a JDM one in the aftermarket sticky. Gonna be the most expensive option tho. Subaruonlineparts.com for the stock one.

Well it likely won't fit a 6th gen....but maybe a 7th....

Check out the gallery at fitment industries. You can search for 2020-22 legacies and see how aftermarket fitments look in great detail provided anyone has posted theirs up yet. Willtheyfit.com is another great resource. Remember you need to take into account any future plans to lower the car, as well as understand more width means more weight and you'll be slower, and brake less efficiently. Looking for as wide as possible might not be your best avenue depending on your goals.