DougKelly20

I had mine done, they said nothing about my fuel volume, but I brought it in with less than 1/3rd. The FSM says less than 2/3rds....my OPINION is that THEY should siphon your gas out, not expect you to do it. It took 4 hours but I had it in for a few things and they were slammed so I left it all day.

I'm not sure anyone ever directly answered this question. I see that grnlantern owns a 3.6 in his profile so I'm going to assume we're talking about the HTCVT TR690...correct?

Hey do you know anyone actually running the OBX headers on the 3.6R 6th Gen? I thought I read somewhere there's a little extra body clearance needed under the 6th....but I've used search to the fullest in here and couldn't find much mention of OBX past the 4th Gen stuff. Raptors consistently out of stock and another group I'm in says their quality is crap anyway. I'm hoping the OBXs will fit but the only place I see them is eBay and I'm not sure I could return them....

Meh...the cvt isn't perfect. Theoretically it's supposed to pick the best ratio possible. In practice it's an algorithm not a mind reader. The 3.6R does less hunting than the wrx. But I totally get his point, you wanna focus on your lines and braking the first few times out...powerband stuff will come later. Leave it in auto for now.

On backroads, which is the closest I've come to the track in the WRX I use the paddles

The CVT is an odd duck...it's the same TR690 in both cars. In the 3.6R it seems to work really nicely. In the wrx it depends on what you're trying to do. I think it responds the best in Sport mode. In Intelligent you need to get to about 40-50% pedal before it changes ratio and gives you a shove (by design) When you jump on it it does sometimes do a bunch of simulated shifts in rapid succession that I don't really like... THAT SAID you can control everything using manual mode. It has been a solid unit in both cars. Reliability hasn't been an issue and I have seen VERY few users complaining about anything but the "shift" points on the forum. My gf commutes in rush hour so she had to have the cvt, and she loves it for daily driving.

Oh forgot to mention though...if you keep the WRX in the power band/on boost, it will eat my 3.6R for lunch everyday and twice on Sunday.

Speed secrets is an AWESOME book. Definitely read that. The rear bar is only 100 bucks and 30 minutes of labor...go once without it and go once with it and I think you'll be glad you spent the money. I did a 19mm RSB (conservative ish because it was my first upgrade, some go 20 or 22mm) and for me, combined with an SSD front strut bar it made a very noticeable difference in the handling. Transitions were flatter, sharper, quicker, and more predictable. Then I did whiteline lowering springs. I would not recommend doing them without also upgrading your shocks unless you are OK with being a little oversprung. This also made another order of magnitude difference in smooth surface cornering but it definitely sacrificed ride comfort and is sketchy on the bumps. I'll be switching to coils eventually... Mine is also axle back, knn, and protuned by Edward from XRT. I picked up about 25hp with all that. It's loud and fun and throttle response is worlds better. Everything else I've done was cosmetic. I've autocrossed before with other cars but this one might be too heavy to be super effective, tho I'm dying to try. I took it to Watkins Glen before the springs but after the bars and it was so much fun... To me the bars are worth it...and they are cheap and easy and a fun little project to do with the kids...they don't affect ride quality and you get the benefits on and off the track. Tires and brakes should always be your first considerations, but after that...try the bars.

I won't tell you what to do as I think all 3 options are viable. I will tell you that I currently own a modified 3.6R and have had 2 current Gen cvt wrxs (both my gfs). The 2020 Wrx has slightly more comfortable suspension than the 2015 we had, plus eyesight (comes with the cvt upgrade). This will require ZERO mods to feel confident on the track. I also drove an unmodified 2.5i as a loaner while the 2015 WRX was getting overhauled during what turned out to be a jammed TGV and it reminded me why I modified the 2019 3.6R I own. It had a ton of body roll and was not conducive to aggressive driving. If you like modding and can teach things to your kids with it the 3.6R will give you a little to moderately more power, but also additional weight. I can see why others have recommended #3 especially because you're just starting out and it's the cheapest option, but it's hard for me because I really love my 3.6r with all the upgrades I've done, and my gfs 2020 Wrx, while the most expensive option is A. Plug and play, and B. The best tool of the 3 for the track. If you have specific questions about my mods our our experiences I'd be happy to answer.

What has been your experience with these coils? I have whiteline springs and I love the handling on twisty roads but I really don't like the oversprung nature in the bumps with the OE struts. Also I'm having similar issues to Patsforlife...scraping, especially in winter. Been watching this thread and was looking around but all I see is the cut-a-strut Koni yellows...not sure I want to undertake that kind project. Switching to coils eventually may be the best option.

As for number 4 it doesn't really matter...if they give you a great price on the CPO and then you parachute the trade at the last minute you'll usually get a crappy trade in value. I always look at the whole deal is a package, the same way they will.

I'm scheduled for the end of the month. Having a fuel pump die or malfunction while driving is not a risk I want to take. I'd do it sooner but they don't have the parts yet....

Just found this little showcase, figured I'd add mine. Lowered with whiteline springs, axleback from nameless, smoked reverse and turn signals w laminix, and gloss black painted grille (body shop) Debadged, and vinyl overlays for emblems.

Maybe we should sticky that one....

Hey guys, even though I can clearly see that some people are typing +45 +40 etc in their posts the search will not find specific offsets. Please forgive me if this is redundant but I'm looking to grab some Enkei TFRs and run either 8" or 8.5" wheels with the stock tires for now. It looks like, since I'm on lowering springs that I have about 20mm of clearance with the stock setup. The offset on the 8.5s is 45 and the 8s are 40. Using willtheyfit.com it looks like depending on how well I measured I'll be dangerously close to rubbing. Does anyone run an 18x8+40 or 18x8.5+45 set up who's also lowered?

It's not the ride height but the spring rate I would be concerned with... most lowering springs have a different rate than stock and your car will be all out of sorts if the back end is wobbling around but the front isn't. I lowered my car with white line springs and while I like them the one thing I noticed was I got a larger front drop than the rear. Now low profile cars disappear faster under my deck in the rear view and I had to adjust my headlights. No big deal because I have the same rates all around and it handles very well, just minor inconvenience/annoyance.

I don't have any experience with the BRZ... Yet....but I would say and long as you add a rear sway bar and strut bar you'll be pretty happy with the handling and the 3.6 definitely has the grunt down low. I'm biased because I already have a 2019 3.6R and I love it, but I'd say go for it. I can't comment on the price, but I can't imagine after that few miles it would be overly beat to shit....as long as it comes with a warranty it should be fine.

Mine's doing this too and I've not made it a priority to figure out why. Now I don't have to, which is why I really enjoy this forum, thanks! I'll have it done with the fuel pump recall when that's formally announced.

I had mine painted by a body shop but it's only been a few hundred miles so far. I tried it myself with trim paint and was able to rub it right off while waxing it, which is why I had the shop do it. Looks great, so far so good. I'll post an update of I see it flake.

Did you soak them in WD40 for an hour or so?

Yeah it might be a while before they are listed. Last update was 4/9 according to the website, and the FSM doesn't have part numbers anyway so I'll just wait.

Anyone see this? Looks like my manufacturers date is within the range. Anyone have issues with their fuel pump? I'll have to read the FSM and see if the 3.6R and the 2.5i use the same pump...

The 3.6R. Sounds like a direct bolt in with no issues then. Thank you!

So, I spoke with aFe today after looking on the website. Looks like the intake is specifically for the the 5th Gen. I'm aware is the same engine but is the whole intake exactly the same too? Did you guys just bolt it straight in or did you have to modify the part at all?

And which number is any one of those words bud?