DougKelly20

I have a very small amount in that area but it looks more like diff oil to me. In your case I would clean the whole area and check back in a week to see if there is any indication where it's coming from. That TSB addresses trans seepage, then calls out CVT, then lists a bunch of cars without them after you said it was likely engine oil so I'm sure it's going to apply.

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Where are you? I have a 2019 in NY and I'm still on the original battery. Had the car exactly 4 years this week.

What's the history of the vehicle? Did a previous owner swap the ECU, engine or trans?

I think the brake parts for the 3.6R are shared with the WRX....not the 2.5.

Raised the ride height by 0.5" today. Been having some problems w speed bumps and transitions, plus winter is here so I need a little more clearance. From the ground to the wheel arch is now 26.5 vs. 26. I was really impressed with the boeshield product I used to protect the threads on the coilovers. They've been through 2 NY winter's in the 2 years they've been on and just a light cleaning with a toothbrush and respray (w the boeshield) and they look brand new. The moderators over on the WRX forum love to shit all over the BC BR coilovers but honestly I have nothing but great things to say. Given we don't really have any other options anyway I'm glad to be "stuck" with them.

Awesome!!! Now we just gotta find an easier way to pair it up with a 6 speed from an STI for us 6th gen guys with the CVT...I hear Canada got a manual option but it was never paired w the 3.6R... guess I need to rewatch the supergramps build.

Yes, I did my diffs at 30k and my CVT at 50k. The maintenance schedule calls for the diffs at the 3 yr 36000 interval (according to the dealer) but doesn't give a flush interval on the CVT. I drive my car hard including track duty so that's why I changed mine. It's expensive, so if you are ok with that my opinion is that it's better to flush than not to flush at all. Others do not share that opinion and searching the forum will reveal some spirited discussion about it.

Wow, even before I was tuned I never saw over 29mpg on the highway for any length of time. That's crazy!!

Are you saying the only way to do it right it try to replace it while it's running? I don't think I'd ever think or want to try to do that...that doesn't sound right to me. Everytime the battery is disconnected for a length of time or a tune is reflashed the cars idle and throttle learn procedure starts and I'm familiar with that. It's just a little lazy for a bit while it remaps everything but it doesn't require 20 min of idling. Ill have to read the FSM and see what it says about replacement.

I'll probably need to replace my battery soon too, does anyone know if there is something specific that needs to be done if you try and do it yourself? I was able to swap our 2019 WRX without issue....and I think it's ridiculous that you would need to take it to the dealership to replace...

Not sure if the 17 is the same as the 19 but I've replaced my own rear pads twice without needing to use maintenance mode with no issues. I used a pair of pliers to screw in the rear pistons, then when restarting the car for the first time I cycle the EBrake on and off a few times and that seems to set it up. I haven't replaced the battery yet, but have disconnected it many times. Just like all modern things....try restarting the car a few times, then try clearing codes before anything else.

Well, that depends on what kind of driver you are. My 19 benefited greatly from the combination of a front strut bar and upgraded RSB. Bang for the buck handling wise can't be beat. I have a thread somewhere with all my mods and impressions but I suck at using the links and stuff.

So I have a different setup due to being 6th Gen and having the CVT but since the CVT cooler, which is much smaller than yours, my cap has been the coolant/oil temps. It used to be the trans. So I'm seeing 230 on oil after 12 minutes but only 200 on trans, where I used see 250 after the first 2 sessions almost all day. As for monitoring I have been using the OBDlinkMX as the interface and the ActiveOBD app for gauges. It has CVT, Oil, and coolant temps all in one screen which I look at on the front straight every pass.

Thanks for following up. Would make sense that it turned almost all the way and then stopped in that case.

Changed the pads this weekend...was running stoptech street pads on both axles and they were great for both street and track, however I did find something odd in the front. The inside pads were worn down significantly more on the bottom than the top as if the bottom piston was clamping harder than the top one. This was consistent on both sides. Any ideas what might cause this? I have one more track day coming up and I'm going to try Sports on the front and streets on the rear. So far after bedding them it stops noticeably harder with minimal extra noise which so far I'm only noticing in the rain at the final moment of stopping.

Hey, do you know if this gauge or any other OBD tools besides SSM will allow you to access the rear brake function where it retracts the pistons for you? Ive been able to wiggle them off and then screw it in but wiggling them off is both challenging and it scratches up the face of the piston so I'd rather have the computer retract them, but I don't have access to nor do I want the SSM.

Hmmm I'll look it up when I get home...the rub is that the CVT fluid you need isn't sold in stores by the liter/qt. At least this is what I've come to understand....they get it by the barrel at the dealerships... I could be wrong. Either way I have both the FSM and my receipt at home so I'll look and let you know. Edit: ok the FSM says 13.2-13.7 US qts. I was charged for 10qts during my flush. There may have been more in the "flush service kit" they used and/or 3 qts just stayed in the trans. I'd think a drain and fill would require fewer qts than all that but I'm curious to see you find the proper fluid to begin with. Keep us posted.

Hmmm I'll look it up when I get home...the rub is that the CVT fluid you need isn't sold in stores by the liter/qt. At least this is what I've come to understand....they get it by the barrel at the dealerships... I could be wrong. Either way I have both the FSM and my receipt at home so I'll look and let you know.

Yes, I had mine flushed by the dealership around 50k miles. I have a 2019 3.6R that sees track duty so I also had them install the OEM trans cooler from the outback. All went well....but it's not cheap. There's heated debate on whether or not to change and subsequently drain/fill or flush. If you are even asking I'll bet you don't believe in "lifetime fluids" like me. When asked the dealership confidently recommended the flush over the drain/fill. Let me know if there's anything else you want to know about it.

Replaced the brake fluid with Motul 660 yesterday using the motive pressure bleeder. The whole thing went very well. I was reluctant because bleeding the brakes by pedal went so awfully with my old optima and the subsequent drive to the dealership was dangerous. Glad I went this route this time.... One successful job pays for this bleeder for most people. For me it was a gift so it's even better. Dash lit up on initial startup, but a restart cleared everything. Ready for the track again this coming Friday!

I also cannot access via Tapatalk.

Continental Extreme Contact DWS06+'s in a 245/45. Love them. Great for daily, also great at the track. Probably aren't gonna last super long, but totally worth it for aggressive driving.

Yeah customizing your spring is probably the way to go. You can also get swift springs. In the almost two years I've had them they've been great for what they are...an entry level CO for a car that has almost zero options. Granted they are slightly unrefined ...they are no KWs...but they are perfect for swapping between street and track. Mine haven't deteriorated at all but I only have about 20k on them. You CAN also have them rebuilt when they wear out. All for a little over a grand upfront. Not bad.

Check out the thread titled "Will Koni Sport Yellows fit the 6th Gen?" I use BC coilovers and I track my 3.6R. I think you could put them at close to full soft and be ok. I started with a strut bar upgraded sway bar and it "lumbered" less, and sharpened the steering, but I think you have to keep going to get a truly somewhat sporty feel. Sidenote stay away from the white line springs, I tried those for a year and they really aren't made for the car.