DougKelly20

Yeah, I upgraded to 8.5s and I'm lowered with no issues. Bumping up to 245s next and I won't have any issues there either.

You'll love it up here, plenty more back roads and less crowded.

Kero, may I ask what area of NY you are in? I'm in Albany and the Two dealerships here seem to be fairly up and up. I was definitely overcharged for a TPMS swap, but other than that the work seems fair....I've seen a few of your posts across a few threads taking about how you and your friends have had bad experiences and I'm wondering specifically what area/towns you're talking about? Thanks,

Do a little searching. I just posted up in the "what did you do to your gen 6 today" about my transition from whiteline springs to BC COs. HR springs have much better reviews than the whitelines. Seems like cut a strut koni yellows are the shock option. Other than that there isn't much else, especially that's any good. For the money and results a $995 set of BC BRs from fitment industries or any of the aftermarket outlets are my recommendation.

Looks great man! Did you need both the LCAs AND toe arms to get proper alignment. I'm running -2.4 camber out back and I'd really rather be closer to -1 but they said they can't. Gonna some more research on here because I know it's been addressed but what camber are you running? Was the LCA part KTA216A (whiteline)?

This weekend I replaced my whiteline lowering springs setup with BC BR series coilovers. It wasn't too awful of a job to do by myself but took much longer than I thought it would. The whitelines were too low in the front and left the car kinda raked. With the stock shocks the setup is oversprung so the ride was crappy. I am waiting for an alignment Monday but an initial shakedown run with them set to middle soft/hard proved much better ride quality. I've never had coilovers before but these seemed pretty high quality regardless of the low price point ($995).

Well a leftover set I had from another car. They happen to be Yokohama ADVANs in a 225/45....which I will not stick with, but I wanted to use them up. I love the tire but stock ratio was 50 and I'd like to get closer to that and add width with a 235/45 or 245/45 or 40 for my next tire.

Use Ed http://xtremeracingtuning.com/ he tunes all kinds of Subaru's and has been doing it forever. He even helped a guy tune a turbo crosstrek. No judgement, people like the cars they like and what you do with it is your own personal deal. If I had 4k I didn't know what to do with I would do it to my leggy. Raptor's kind of a pain to deal with. I gave up buying headers from them because they took so long and had shitty response times. Ed tuned my 19 3.6R and he instructed me on which software and cable to get. I was not into tweaking my own parameters, so if you wanna do some yourself or you HAVE to have a local tuner, you might want to look elsewhere but for an etune that's really solid...i highly recommend him.

18x8.5 +45 works fine on mine. I'm lowered, no rubbing or scrubbing, no rolled fenders. Can't speak to 9.5.

I think the point is gains, however small they may be come from better exhaust flow and lower cylinder temps rather than any concerns over cleanliness. If you don't already have headers and a full exhaust that would be a far better way to get some power/flow. Again....with headers... get a tune.

Haha, this cracks me up. From what I've read and seen from the WRX crew you really need a tune after....so unless you're doing to do that, like he said, just don't. That said, I didn't look at your profile but I think I remember you have the EZ36, and I'm not sure there's a kit out there for it....but maybe you can ask the Gen 5 boys and girls.

I don't know about "sti" sway bars but here's the 20mm kit for gen6 legacy 20451VA000-20464VA000-x2 First is the bar second are the bushings. Just go to subaruonlineparts.com and you should find a few options.

Yeah, I felt it MOST on the smaller bumps and when it was cold. I'm going 8 months strong on just the spring replacement, but cold weather is coming and I'm curious to see if my results hold up...

Did they replace the whole rack or just that problematic spring?

Me too! Timing didn't work out but I'd like to be at the next one.

Honestly this was my first time using clay, but I was very straightforward. I watched a couple YouTube videos and talked to my dad and just went for it. All the steps Grnlantern1 laid out are great and clearly he has much more experience. 2 things I'll say to augment his post are: a separate bucket and mitt for wheels makes total sense but I always thought the two bucket method was one for soap, one to rinse. Mitt goes in the soap, on the car, then to rinse before back in the soap. Secondly a few reviews I read said that a small spray bottle with soap and water is better lubricant than the quick detailer for clay because it doesn't leave a residue if you are following up with a sealer. I used all McGuire's stuff, but I sealed with a product called The Last Coat. I hit each panel with alcohol before using TLC and then followed their instructions. I've been less than impressed with the lasting power of waxes so I gave this a try. So far after 2 weeks and one touchless car wash it's held up pretty well, but that's hardly enough time for a fair review. Also if you have aftermarket wheels don't use harsh wheel cleaners, just soap and water. The info that came with my Enkei wheels said its just like your paint so treat it the same way.

Finally washed clayed and coated it!

Wash, clay and coat with the new wheels on today.

Assuming you aren't lowered you'll be fine. Even if you were, you would probably be fine....depending on the drop.

Haha maybe my phone was grimey from all the sweat. Doing this 95 degree heats sucks! Ahh just checked, it's because of the size restriction on uploads through tapatalk...not using VIP.

Started blacking out my chrome with matte black vinyl. First time working with it... took 5 hours to do the first side, but it's turning out pretty well. 3M knifeless tape is clutch.....

Not aware of a mid pipe. Most people I've seen on here run a custom system from the header to mufflers. Whiteline springs are bouncy. Looks like you got your answer on H&R, but just in case WL was on your list I figured I'd chime in.

I've never done one myself and I'm not a mechanic. The level of certainty you have seems to indicate that you are. I'm sure there are ways around following the manual exactly, but my point to the gentlemen who was told to "bring it in with a 1/4 tank" is that he should push back on the dealership and insist that they do whatever is necessary to complete the job based on the fact that it's a recall. There shouldn't be any stipulations. Providing references to the FSM gives him ammunition for that conversation if nothing else. Personally I took out the (kid's) car seats and brought it in with a 1/3rd tank to make it easier for them because I had the runway to plan for that. But I didn't/ shouldn't have had to....

From the FSM: 25.Fuel Pump A: REMOVAL WARNING: Place “NO OPEN FLAMES” signs near the working area. CAUTION: • Be careful not to spill fuel. • Catch the fuel from the tubes using a container or cloth. • If the fuel gauge indicates that two thirds or more of the fuel is remaining, be sure to drain fuel before starting work to avoid the fuel to spill. NOTE: Fuel pump assembly consists of fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel level sensor. 1) Release the fuel pressure. <Ref. to FU(H6DO)-94, RELEASING OF FUEL PRESSURE, PROCEDURE, Fuel.> 2) Drain fuel. <Ref. to FU(H6DO)-94, DRAINING FUEL (WITH SUBARU SELECT MONITOR), PROCEDURE, Fuel.> ETC… 2. DRAINING FUEL (WITH SUBARU SELECT MONITOR) WARNING: Place “NO OPEN FLAMES” signs near the working area. CAUTION: Be careful not to spill fuel. NOTE: • If the fuel pump cannot be driven, refer to the procedures for draining from the fuel filler hose. <Ref. to FU(H6DO)-95, DRAINING FUEL (THROUGH THE FUEL FILLER HOSE), PROCEDURE, Fuel.> • Be careful not to let the battery run-out. • Be aware that the fuel may remain in the fuel tank after draining the fuel. 1) Release the fuel pressure. <Ref. to FU(H6DO)-94, RELEASING OF FUEL PRESSURE, PROCEDURE, Fuel.> 2) Remove the clip (A) securing the fuel delivery tube. 3) Attach the ST to the fuel pipe assembly, and push the ST in the direction of arrow mark to disconnect the fuel delivery tube (B). ST 42099AE000 QUICK CONNECTOR RELEASE So the special tool they use to drain it does not technically count as siphoning but yes...they need to drain the fuel.

Yeah all the 3.6Rs have the HTCVT. Thanks for keeping us posted on your situation, I'm sure there are more than a couple of us that are concerned about this. In my case my GF has a WRX with the same CVT so there's 2 of them at my place...