DougKelly20

What is the wheel width? 7.5in max is 235. 8 is 245, 8.5 is 255. Says nothing about what you SHOULD run or what will fit without rubbing depending on your other mods.

You may also have some trouble and hear a clunk noise if you park on a slight hill. If you don't set the parking brake it's sometimes a little rough putting it into gear after it's settled into park on a grade.

Ok but once in the car after smashing the window why wouldn't you just hit the trunk release? I get that it doesn't work for a dead battery, but if someone wants in the trunk smashing the window is pretty viable.

I'm having trouble using the quote feature which seems to have disappeared from the Tapatalk interface, but on the subject of heat in the CVT on freeway vs stop and go traffic I'm noticing it has more to do with ambient temperature and time driving. While yes in general it might heat a bit faster in stop and go traffic, hard acceleration and up hills, it does so in general slowly, over time. For example it's about 10 degrees here in NY lately and after about 10 minutes of warming up (yes I use remote start, yes I realize the car doesn't need that long but I prefer not to freeze my a$$ off), the CVT starts out my journey to work at 40 ish degrees. I have stop and go for half my commute and highway for the other half of a 35 minute commute. By the time I get to work it's around 100 degrees. During that time it warms up in a linear fashion a couple degrees at a time. It then stays hot for a while. If I run errands back to back then take the highway home or visa versa, it just keeps climbing the longer I run the car. There are limits to this. It will eventually level off....after a track session when it hit 250 degrees I let it sit for 2 hours and got back in it and it was around 190 again. After hot lapping it for 15 minutes it was back to 250 (where I cut it off) and on my highway drive home it slowly dropped back to around 200 to 180....this was in the summer when it was 90 out. In the cold it has kept climbing past 140 the longer I stay on the road. Once at a constant highway speed you'd think it would stay static and I'm sure eventually it gets there but it takes a long time to warm up and cool down....MUCH longer than coolant and oil, and so to summarize I really feel like ambient air temp and duration of trips has more to do with it than stop and go vs highway. From what I remember the optimal range is 85-175 and it's really not good when it gets way up to 250. Given the fact that Japan and Canada recommend certain intervals closer to (36mi and 50kms I think?) And the fact that it's fairly common to have the opinion "all fluids eventually wear out" I would say change it....if it's drained instead of forcibly flushed I can't see what would go wrong. Personally given the track time mine will see I'll be installing a CVT cooler this year and having the fluid changed at the same time. It has 47k on it today. Hope that helps.

I have 2 SSD bars, one on each of my 6th Gens, and I think I ordered at least one of them directly from SSD.

I've used the OEs, yoko avid ascend GTs and Advan sport A/S, and DWS06 Plus contis as well as blizzacks (though the latter were on a WRX) and I gotta say, after swapping from front wheel drive cars all my life to 2 WRXs and 2 3.6R Legacy's, driving in NY has never been easier. I never hurt for the traction to go forward and as long as you don't carry too much speed into a corner any decent all season will do the trick. I think what surprised me most is that I went to 245 DWS06+s on my 3.6 recently and was sure it would be a drift monster in the snow.....nope still got traction for days ... It seems to matter more that you not let the tread depth get too low than any other factor.

No, this isn't normal

Junk yard is your best bet for what you're asking. Very easy if you pick up and exhaust hanger removal tool. Fairly easy if you don't but ....I highly recommend it.

Tightened up the ring collars on the coilovers this weekend....no new popping sound since! If that changes I'll let everyone know. I'm Really hoping it remains this very simple fix.

Yeah, I had this same thing happen under my second engine cover after I broke the pegs on my first....after that I just gave up and have been running without one. :/

Can you define "better ride?" What are you looking to change specifically about the suspension?

Fog light switch in that model is on the light/turn signal stalk. You probably could rig something to a blank down by the nanny switches though.

No, I had this done already, completely different sound. I'm get a loud single pop...not a consistent rattle.

I did my plugs this summer and I think it was pull the tab out slightly then push the body of the connector off. I wouldn't bet my life on it tho. Try pushing in first because that's less likely to break but I think you'll find pulling the tab out is the way to go. Doesn't take much, go slow and be gentle and you'll be fine. Edit you should probably get the FSM anyway for torque specs and that will show you. Mine's at home or I'd look it up now.

No tearing or cracking of anything. I'll get it up on the quikjack this weekend and take a closer look at the center strut bolt (unlikely the issue) and the springs (may need adjustment or lube).

No. Only a single popping noise and only at high steering angle while moving slowly. More prominent in reverse. After some more research I'm wondering if the spring is binding.

At the dealership now, they can't replicate the noise *eye roll* I bought whiteline, and will probably have it installed in the spring or if the noise gets worse anyway. Update: upon further review they heard the noise, said everything in there was tight and blamed my BC coilovers. I'm not convinced. I need to get the front end up in the air and have someone turn the wheel....but the camber bolts are tight too....anyone else running BC COs for a while? Any popping or clunking?

I am worried that it is, yes. I've been lowered since very early in the cars life and live in pothole NY. So I parked it until I can get into the shop (next Monday), and bought the roll center kit for it just in case they confirm my suspicions.

I thought it was you who said that in some other tread. It stuck with me for some reason. I'll have to look it up and see if I can find the post.

The TR690 is rated for 690NM which equals 508 ft lb. The graph on Cobb's website shows 275 ish which is the common quoted limitation on the TR690. The torque converter likely multiplies the engines torque 1.5-2x...so whether or not the tune is good, the components aren't rated for much more from the factory than 275.

Which front bushings did you end up going with? I'm starting to get a clunk in the front now too.....

Wow, actually according to the index chart then I should be running 27 and 28 psi respectively. At 95 it's around 1400. At 100 load index, like my dws 245/45s, 1400 is 28. It did seem a bit like it was getting on its tip toes when I went up to 33 and 32 like factory. Great info, thanks.

Thanks! Anyone know the stock tire's load rating? I forget which brand and type it is... Also living in NY temperature fluctuates as much as 30-40 degrees a day in the fall and spring so it's hard to pin down...I adjust it up a pound or two every month as winter approaches ...

I put these on. They work great. I'm lowered 1.5" w no cupping. https://www.ftspeed.com/part/67660pr-spc-toe-arms-rear-pair-2015-wrx-2015-sti-2013-ft86?gclid=Cj0KCQjwt-6LBhDlARIsAIPRQcKWLlPTUdgTP0oLXe11_6SxEJgBdaFSpVAg-GyfhrqIniiLH963KJ0aAoHDEALw_wcB#.YXyMdFMpA0E Yes, it lists BRZ etc....same exact control arm in leggy.

I test drove the stinger, loved it! Didn't wanna pay 45k to 50k for a sedan tho....other than price and lack of visibility it had very few draw backs as long as you get the top level trim. The lower trim seats and stereo were sub par vs Infiniti....but on par with Subaru. Do you self a favor and at least give it a test.