Max Capacity

It works so well, I bought two, one for each car. SO much EASIER to R&R, then that PITA OEM coupler when working on the engine. It is not cheap though.

Assuming your running the stock tmic ? That OEM connector hose is a royal PITA IMO. That's why I love the GS tmic's. Maybe talk with Grimmspeed about what will work for you.

What's the issue...looks like the magnet is doing its job... LOL

Hi, it was nice to meet you too. The car looks good in person.

http://people.csail.mit.edu/ilh/vacation/ You can find it there.

Did you over oil the K&N ? I ran oil coated filters in my wagon since it had 4000 or so miles on it back in Aug 2004, I lightly oil them, never had any issues. I also clean the MAF yearly, with MAF cleaner.

My vf52 would begin to spool about 2400rpm, on stock injectors.

The pressure bottle method has been around here for years now. I have never used it.

My click here link in my sig, is the poster child for how to do it right, the first time.

That issue seems to be on a new engine. Which they filled the oil filter completely. No oil flow at starter cranking speed. When I started the new short block for the first time back in May 2012, I just started the engine like I do every day. I don't recall if I did the half full oil filter for that or not. My pressure light went out in seconds, just like every time. I wonder if those "pro's" would just start the new engine, like I assume the factory does, maybe they would not have an issue. I doubt the factory primes each engine before starting it. I do recall, back in May 2012, I had the key on the "on" position a few times before the first start-up. When it came time to start it, I made sure, once again, the fuel pump primed, gauges sweep, then start. Engine cranked three times and was at idle, oil light went out in seconds. I also recall back in 2005 or so with our Honda race motor, trying to get oil pressure at starter speed, that was the longest 30-40 seconds of my life. That was a 486whp 1.6L single cam.

Interesting,... I fill mine about half full. But it's not a fully filled, sealed system, so to speak. There is plenty of open space in the system for air to move around and vent out. I realize between the pump and filter it is, but once the oil leaves the filter, isn't it being pushed to the engine where it sprays around inside the valve covers and such ? I recently changed the oil on my 86' F150 with an EFI 302 V8, 43,000 miles on the engine. The truck had sat for a few days before the oil change. I don't put oil in that new filter as it's on an angle on the block. When I started it afterward, there was a little knocking until pressure built a couple of seconds later.

https://parts.subaruonlineparts.com/v-2020-subaru-wrx-sti--limited--2-5l-h4-gas/engine--engine There, still $2000 which is what I paid back in April 2012, get the engine gasket set for your year car. See if your local dealership will match the price. I had a inside contact back then, but I got the discounted price locally.

You can reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes. After you reconnect the battery, turn the Key to ON for 10 seconds before starting. I think that should clear the codes. Drive the car about 60 miles for the CEL to return. Some of the big Auto Parts stores will read and clear codes for free. Like Auto Zone and Advance auto parts It also has been found the rear ABS sensors tend to get worn on an angle.

Yep, new EJ257 and engine gasket set for your year car, have the heads rebuilt by a machine shop. Have them hot tank all the parts you remove. You need to make sure no metal particles are in the oil system before you spend all this money and not make sure all the oil passages are clean. Do it right the first time.

I always put some oil in the filter before I put them on these engines. I really don't see any issue doing that. Can't hurt.

Just saying, NAPA has a rebuilt for not much more money... https://www.napaonline.com/en/search?text=starter&referer=v2 There is also a starter greasing thread too,

For some reason, that photo, makes me smile. Good job.

Here's mine from last Aug with 305,000 miles. It's still running great, with it's new owner. These pictures were from replacing the oil pan that rusted out and was leaking...on my new garage floor.

Have you asked google... ? This is for a Denzo. https://www.google.com/search?q=denso+ac+compressor+rebuild+kit&rlz=1C1OKWM_enUS906US906&oq=AC+compressor+rebuilt+kits&aqs=chrome.3.69i57j0i22i30l6j0i5i13i30l2j0i22i30.2256109862j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Do you know which gasket set you need ?

FWIW, My heads didn't need anything new when they were rebuilt at 154,000 miles in late April 2012, Again, those heads on the ej257 still ran great when the car had 306,000 miles. See my click here link in my sig.

Just guessing, the cost of all those parts will be close to the cost of a new ej257 shortblock, plus the labor to rebuild. That's why it's cheaper for most to just buy the ej257 and engine gasket set for your year car like I did. That engine was still running great some 154,000 miles later, tuned at 21psi with vf52 when I sold it.

Maybe its just me, but if the body was in better shape (bumpers) and the shifter boot was there. It might get more interest... Nice power for a mustang dyno, must be fun to drive.

Can you put the last strip on from the side ? Maybe you need a ladder bracket to hold the ladder off the side of the garage, so you can feel safe. I have one of these. https://www.amazon.com/Louisville-Ladder-LP-2200-00-Stabilizer/dp/B0000CBILQ/ref=asc_df_B0000CBILQ/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167152358566&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14982639747063303665&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003219&hvtargid=pla-276292392619&psc=1

In my thread, on Oct 2 2022 you can see where they did the house roof. I think you made the right choice going with the metal roof. Those are nice for the long term.

You can see how the Pro's did my roof here, look for post dated Nov 21 2021.