Max Capacity

Index of /ilh/vacation There's the service manuals. I have that link saved in my Bookmarks, as everyone should. I also have the manual downloaded into my documents.

I sent him a PM with this thread.

I would think you'd need to check them for continuity, but I'm no expert. You may want to PM "m sprank"

Just asking, have you replaced both rear sensors ? Or at least pulled them out to inspect them ? They are easy to replace, NAPA has them.

Yes, the CR is not an issue. The change in the top of the piston shape is so small... Are we talking about LGT's with 5mt's or 5eat's ?

When my Tuner did a street tune after I put the ej257 in my 05, he said even with the CR change, it wasn't enough to worry about or make adjustments because of it. You can see the B25 on the left hand head on my 2005.

The ej255 and ej257 out of the STI are the same engine. Any difference doesn't effect anything. The 06 shortblock will bolt into your car, You bolt your bolt on items to the new shortblock. That's why you need to get the engine gasket set for your year car. Notice in my pictures, I removed the intake system in one piece and bolted it to the ej257. You also need to make sure your turbo has about zero play in the shaft, in/out, up/down, side to side. Also get a new oil return hose from the turbo.

Here's the service manual, Index of /ilh/vacation The tensioner may be a issue, some have had them go bad and make noise. Only use the Aisin timing belt kit, not a Gates, which is junk now days. car-part.com is the junkyard site to find a used engine...but most are so costly, it's better to buy a new ej257 shortblock. But in your case, you can do the labor and machining. www.car-part.com $3000 for a used engine, is not much of a bargain.

Which town in MA do you live in ? I have a trusted mechanic in Somersville CT, a few miles from the state line below Springfield, MA. You can read my, "click here" link below, to see how to replace the short block ($2200 with engine gasket set for your year car) with a new one from Subaru. The machine shop is in Somersville CT. Depending on how much metal is in your oil, you'll want to replace the oil cooler and other parts in the oil system. Blackstone Labs can perform a oil sample if you want to go that way. Metal in the oil is a bad thing in these engines.

So sorry to hear that.

FWIW, when I do spark plugs, I have two plug sockets, one with the rubber insert and one without the rubber that holds the plug and sometimes stays on the plug as the extension is pulled out. Learned that working on the hemi style heads on the Honda civic many years ago, to fix the stuck socket on the plug, I had a socket welded to the extension. On these engines, I install the plug with the rubber insert socket, but before it's too far in, I switch to the socket without the rubber insert, then tighten the plug.

For you newer members, I bolted my turbo years ago. To me, it was much easier to line up the up pipe, turbo inlet and new oil return hose at the same time. Bolts were the same one's used by OEM to bolt the up pipe support bracket to the block. My dealer parts guys give me a handful of them.

Just saying, if you live in a cold climate, the stock oil cooler/heater may come in handy on colder day's. It will help keep moisture out of the oil system.

Back in the day, April 2012, when I needed a new oil pump, I just called Mike at https://azpinstalls.com/ and told him my setup, and asked him to send me what he would use. It really is that simple. I don't know which pump he sent, but I drive that engine for over 150,000 trouble free miles.

White plug in front, black to rear.

Please tell us, that's not a horizontal gouge across the sealing surface about 11 o'clock ?

If you can get the car high enough, you should be able to pull it as a unit. I would assume you'll need a second person to help guide it out.

Hey, just because my oil pan rusted out and began leaking on my new garage floor... LOL. Yeah, mine had lots of winter miles going skiing. Take care of yours as it's in nice shape.

Next place to check for leaks, is the valve covers, here's the common spot.

Read my click here link, you'll see what and how to R&R the engine and use a new ej257 short block. Oh, the engine in your car is an ej255, the ej257 SB is a direct bolt in. These engines have multi-layer HG's and done have the same HG issues the ej253 has.

Your welcome. Don't be in a hurry to replace items, just because of age, if it ain't broke, don't fix it. At 306,000 miles, my 05 had all its engine sensor's it left the factory with. Except the O2's.

310Z, how come that car has no rust under it ?

Personally, I have never like them. I was taught to use teflon tape many decades ago and still only use it. I think you have to let the liquid stuff set up before it seals...? I must have 5 or 6 rolls of teflon tape around the house.

Good luck, it should come out without to much trouble. You may even slide a short piece of pipe over the ratchet handle to add leverage.

Are you using a 1/2" drive set up to break it loose ? I would use a 3/8" drive when going together, that will limit the torque you can apply. AGAIN, don't over tighten it, tapered threads seal as they turn in when you have 4 or 5 wraps of teflon tape.