DoctorDaveLGT

https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fs-location-ca-bay-area-gs-tmic-dp-equal-length-286493.html

Personally speaking, I'm glad you didn't do this with your specB.

PM'd regarding the carbon wing.

Bump, price drop. Good candidates for some custom headlight work.

Pre-facelift set sold. Price drop on post-facelift set.

Pre-face hasn't sold but getting a shipping quote for interested buyer tomorrow. The blue tint refers to the "chrome-like" low beam projector surround piece that has has a blue tint direct from the factory compared to the normal "chrome" surround. It's purely aesthetic and doesn't affect the lighting or lens.

Both grills sold.

USDM mesh grill sold!

JDM Post-facelift Headlights These are a spare set of headlights that I purchased about a year ago and my intention was to send them off to get customized but direction for the wagon has changed and I no longer need/want these. These are exactly how they were when I purchased them. Comes with full set of bulbs and ballast but I never tested to confirm if they all work. There is slight condensation inside the driver's side headlight that looks like it could be baked out. No broken tabs or mounting points. Shields have NOT been flipped and the lenses could use a polish. Will come with the JDM headlight mounting brackets. Would recommend getting one of AW4BYT's PnP harness's. $OLD

Have 2 sets of JDM headlights (pre & post facelift) for sale. Prices are OBO. JDM Pre-facelift Headlights w/ Blue "Smoke/Tint" These have been on my car for the past 2 years and they were polished and clear coated (paint, not protective film) before going on the car so they should never fade. Pretty good condition overall with some light scuff marks and slight clear coat chipping on the passenger headlight in the upper turn signal area. This is the worst part of the headlights. No broken tabs or mounting points, never had any condensation and they have the level adjuster motors as well. Shields have NOT been flipped, I adjusted them down and never had issues with people flashing. Will come with the items listed below. I would highly recommend getting one of AW4BYT's PnP harness's to make things easier. I did a DIY approach for the harness on my car before learning of his kits. - LED highbeam bulb - Denso HID Ballast (1 1/2 yrs old) - Osram CBB D2S Bulbs (1 1/2 yrs old) - 6k LED Parking light bulb $OLD

Send me a PM with your ZIP and I'll get you a shipping quote tomorrow. Not sure, I've never mounted the grill on my car. My wagon is getting the JDM facelift treatment and this was going to be my "winter" grill. There should be a few threads out there detailing what needs done to fit on a USDM car.

Have 2 grills for sale. One is a DIY mesh for 05-07 USDM bumpers with "L7" & STI badges and the other is a JDM facelift honeycomb grill with the chrome surround painted black. The mesh grill has some small rock chips from use and pricing is flexible if you do not want the either of the badges. Honeycomb grill is in excellent shape and never been used after the trim was painted, just a little dusty. Prices are OBO. USDM 05-07 Mesh Grill - Asking $OLD JDM Honeycomb Grill - Asking $OLD

Wouldn't recommend it, a lot of caveats and it will ultimately be taxable later if it's not re-payed.

Nice wagon. Maybe I'm missing it but is the asking price listed? Seems you edited the price in as I was typing.

I have a brand new set of SuperPro (SPF3391K) inner & outer rear lower control arm bushings for sale. Only opened to check that they weren't needed because of the Whiteline LCA kit I bought. Price: SOLD

Like the others, pretty positive black headliner was never an option with sunroof. I also went the custom route on this when I did mine. Check out madrig's "The darker side...." thread if you haven't already. Due to differences in the mounting points relating to the airbags in the A & B pillars it's advised to wrap them in fabric or plastic paint and not use the JDM ones except for the inner black seatbelt slide portion for the B pillar.

Same configuration as SpecB/bilstein so you'll need to utilize some SS washers to get everything to work right with the Koni's. The Whiteline ComC's are also SpecB configuration and I never had issues with a raised front/saggy butt on the wagon with swift springs. Actually now that I think about it when I first switched to the Swift springs and OEM LGT top hats there was a little bit of rake but a when we added the ComC's for more camber adj it raised the front enough to level out perfectly in my opinion.

I'd go with the Group N's. A little pricey at $79/ea from Rallispec before shipping. I have the Whiteline Com C's and the clunking noise appeared after about 5k miles on them. I've just been living with it for the time being. Haven't installed the Group N's yet but haven't heard anything bad about them. My wagon is in the shop for ton of work and installing these is part of that. http://www.rallispec.com/mou_top_rstl419.html I forget which thread it was in but Mike from AZP had said those top hats paired with the Koni's was his favorite setup. I can get the part # for them later tonight if I remember (tax season is a b****). Here's the part number.

Transmission/rear diff/rear axles are worth roughly $3k. Basically all the parts needed for a direct swap if someone wanted to swap in the 6 spd on their GT. As a reference, I bought a SpecB parts car from another forum member for $3.5k this past summer. He kept the motor/turbo/exhaust, facelift front end, misc suspension items I didn't need.

Huh, I didn't have any issues with that. Looks aside, the GS intercooler works with the stock bpv hose and the samco is just a silicon replacement so I guess chalk it up to YMMV. EDIT: To clarify though my setup isn't the same as it is with the OEM bpv hose. I used the metal cylinder as the connection point and each hose is clamped to it.

Just curious, what issue did you run into where the adapter didn't work for you?

I have this setup and it will work.

Yep, it can be done. It's not a hard process but it's one where you have to be very careful and tedious about what you're doing to keep the plastic mounting points intact. The door cards are like 98% held together with plastic rivets/welds and they need to be carefully drilled or melted (I drilled) out and then you can use screws to replace them. I didn't do a write-up on it unfortunately. I did all this to swap in the front JDM door cards that have the additional 3" speaker grill from the McIntosh system and added the alcantara inserts from the 08-09 SpecB's at the same time. There are a few pics of the finished work in my build thread. If you're not trying to change the inserts on the rear door cards JDM ones are completely PnP. Same connections on the window switches as USDM.

I'm good with the set I've got and yes, I've had the fenders off and analyzed everything. I know how tight it is back there. We have a plan of attack and we'll see how it turns out. Even if my idea for heat extraction doesn't work I would still bet good money that dremeling out the vents adds functionality, even if just by a smidge. The real purpose of fender vents, at least those that are in the upper portion of a fender, is to relieve pressure in the wheel arch when at speed to reduce lift. Found the pic I posted in the other thread. Modified, yes, but I wouldn't consider them anywhere near destroyed.

Front fenders vents were purely for show and not functional. It has the same filled in mesh design as the fog surrounds on the JDM facelift spec b bumper. I drilled mine out to try and do some custom work to make them partially-functional at engine bay heat extraction. I think I posted pic's of the before and after of my dremel work in the WDYDTY thread sometime ago.