Scooby2.5

what did you guys use to clean the black moulding with before adhering the visors. It says to use K-500 adhesion promoter. Wondered if using isopropyl alcohol would work Nothing in my box for cleaning but I think some of the JDM orders had something

What or who did the cobb exhaust polish?

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My new motor is in and running great. The Manley 2618 Forged pistons in this motor are so much more quiet than the JE pistons I was running before. You have a tiny bit of noise on cold starts but it goes away completely. If you let the motor warm up a bit before you put a load on it, you don't really hear them at all. My JE pistons were noisy all the time. I HIGHLY recommend these Manley Platinum Series pistons.

brand new

Will do man, and I found the rack for 525 Also i cant find anywhere that you posted your 1.5xtr results

BTW my next mod will be the 2015 rack

My car is currently at Cobb Plano TX getting a new motor. Im picking it up this thursday so maybe next week I can fix the wiring. Again thanks for researching this. I drive my car every day but noticed that if I let it set for a few days it would start but I could tell something was draining the battery.

Never mind I see what you did. Only feed from stock FP relay to new relay coil. Then Feed B+ with new relay which is direct from battery and wire from FP+ to the pump. Ill check mine out. Good find! Makes since that B+ is straight to FP+ internally as really the module is only pulsing the negative signal, changing the ground reference

post 65 shows SBT wiring diagram he drew for the forum members http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/upgrading-your-fuel-pump-wiring-4th-gen-213570p5.html

It seems to me from your drawing all you did was disconnect B+ from the module. So B+ is removed and that signal is just feeding the relay and not the module? Not sure what you meant by feeding FP+ unless you had done what turkey lord had done in post 564-569 here http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fuel-pump-control-module-143860p38.html

Thanks for this underdog. I recently discovered my car was draining the battery. I never thought about the fact the relay was not turning off. Ill have to look into fixing mine with your new diagram. You saved me some troubleshooting!!

Well this is a bit older thread but ill update you guys later next week. I have a misfire on my built motor and Cobb plano is doing a leak down/Compression test this week. The motor has 95K on 2816 Forged JE Pistons, Cobb/Crower rods, STI crank, STI Crank and Rod bearings, ARP head studs, Killer B p/u tube. If the motor comes out Ill report back with pictures hopefully on what a piston slap happy motor looks like with almost a 100K and 4 years on it. I am thinking its an exhaust valve issue but it will be interesting to see what the SB looks like

Here is where I mounted mine

subscribed. BTW did you get your XT sold?

Pictures of mine is post 24 might help as well.

Best bet would be to download the PDF file that SBT drew up and follow that. The relay in his drawing is labeled with numbers for each pin. Then look at the DW plug (which has blue, white, yellow, black) and the relay (should be numbered similar to drawing) provided and match it up.

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Yep, but double check the posts with the details.....

Updated the pics pretty much in order in post 14-15. If you ever have any questions give me a call....eight one six two one three seven two zero three

Sure Ill post them up on the previous page where they used to be sometime today

Ive got an older Vag Com cable I am willing to part with. PM if anyone interested.....

Nice find on the stop techs. Where did you get them for that? Those are nice.....a buddy of mine has them

I have mine with a LC-1 works great

The brake swap wilwood kit with the stock sized rotors works well and you get to keep your dust shields SBT I just have always wanted a matching rear set