Scooby2.5

We may not have tested the difference with a good pos battery feed with each module. We didn't figure out until way later to go is direct to the pump and neg off the module with larger wire. It was zorro that did it first and Shawn found it in that NASIOC thread. I was initially going to feed the module more voltage direct (since the original feed was such tiny wire and a 2 volt drop) and then from the module to the pump on the pos lead as well This is where you saw more of a difference in the modules depending on what you fed it. I think the better way is pos from battery and relay straight to pump and neg from module. That way you don't have voltage drop across module on pos lead but you still have PWM "ground"

I think it was coldscooby (sp). He had an alternator with higher output. Shawn changed his alternator as well at some point and it put out 14.2 Another factor is using a meter. A PWMS needs to be looked at with a scope With the meter, test it by checking it from pos on pump and then to chassis ground. See what voltage is actually at the pump. Then check it from pos on the pump and on neg (PWM) coming from the module. This reading will be an AVERAGE reading unless you look at it with an O scope Find the thread on NASIOC, we posted a link to it in the other thread. It actually showed some scope readings and what the neg lead waveform looked like. It seems that with good voltage going to the module we saw about .5 to .7 more out of the STI module than the the legacy module. It was way more expensive as well in the 04-07 years Just remember though depending how good your meter is etc it's averaging the reading to "ground" because of the PWM signal it sees on the neg lead from the module. Its sort of a floating ground I'm going to get my O scope out one if these days and take a look at it myself

Yea I followed this thread to make my first one but just wanted something more clean. When I found out the MK3 was a resettable fuse I decide it was worth it. Very fine piece. If we could get some vendor on here to stock these and get a handful of them we might be able to cut the cost. Some of the expense is the crazy certified shipping from Australia

Check the initial thread I think all this data is in there with factory wiring diagrams and everything.

Yes this is correct. It would be nice to have the pins for this though. You could crimp your splice right to the pin. I think I did that I'd I remember correctly. I was cannibalizing pins from a spare STI pigtail like the one in the picture above with the keys

Calvin Dotson (Cobb Plano Tuner) and I quantified the difference between the two modules. I think I reposted it earlier in this thread. I'm running around for work today so I can't look but if someone has time and can look in this thread or the original thread and repost that would be great. I think in the other thread it's in the first few pages.

Ooops MK3 from HKB, the diode fuse. By the way it is expensive but if you factor in all they did to get it made and where it has to ship from its not too bad. Plus its a resetable un-blowable fuse. It will last forever.

Spiral wrap is a great idea! I zip tied mine pretty tight, not overly tight and it has been fine, but I know what you mean about being too tight for the cable to move properly inside the sleeve.

impressive!!!! Love it!

Yea I understand the math BUT, 10ga massive wire into the connector pins, through the fuel pump rubber plug etc etc is not worth .2 volts. I am not sure you would even see that much drop on an actual meter. If you want to pick up a few more tenths of a volt do the diode mod. 13.8 is low for a alternator anyway hence the reason the toyota guys came up with the HBK fuse. If you have a Braille battery like I do, 13.8 isn't even enough to charge it well according to the Braille specs. I used 12ga throughout my whole modification.

I did and with the pigtails on the socket it was long enough. you can see my pictures earlier in this thread I believe.

Relay seems to be top notch from what I saw. I installed the DW kit. I am an EE major and work for a one of the 4 main Xray companies Toshiba. I deal with this stuff all the time and the stuff from DW and Aeromotive seemed to be great stuff. I personally would crimp and solder the pins but thats just me. I did that as well as heat shrink wrap the connections. To each his own though.....

Give credit to Zorro, for doing this and figuring it out first. When it comes to wiring direct to the pump on the pos side and then leaving the neg PWMS alone. IMHO 10GA:eek: wire is complete overkill for a 13.7 15-20a circuit. 12ga is more than adequate and fits in the pins much better.

Any lockout cable with a STS, like from Cobb etc will need to be tie wrapped. The cable is made for the length of the shifter down through the hole to the transmission. If you shorten any part of that the cable is long. I had the STS from STI for a spec b and installed it with my tranny swap. It was fine until I installed the Cobb STS.

Just go to Cobb website and look up spec b 6 speed STS. One you find it there is a link for the instructions PDF That's what I placed the link to. Not sure why it's not working

By the way franz where did you source the pins. Id like to get some. I cannibalized some other connectors to get mine but would love to have some. I think it was you that found them?

First the positive leg is not PWM, only the negative lead out of the module is. See original thread. Second someone did that in the other thread and sometimes the new relay would not turn on. Its in the last few pages. Why everyone is trying to come up with a different way to do this all the time is baffling me. Even the pump manufactures are providing drawings on how to do this for their pumps. The only thing different we are doing is leaving the FPCM in the circuit. Why we have two threads to keep track of now on the same exact subject is irritating. We could have just put the write up that was done at the beginning or end of the other thread

If you add the relay for wiring direct to the pump it really is not changing it much from stock. Stock has a keyed on relay. So power to the coil on the relay and direct feed from that relay to the FPCM. With that said as small as the wire is feeding the stock relay I would guess that the rating on that relay is pretty small and wouldn't handle the voltage and current draw of the larger pumps. The way it's being wired now we are just using the old one as a key on signal for turning on the new relay so it should be fine. Purchase one of the premade kits from DW or aeromotive. Both seem to have good wire and the relays seem robust

From the Cobb instructions...... 9. Go under the car and release the reverse lockout cam so that it can operate. Check the reverse lockout operation in the cabin at this time to ensure proper function. If you will be setting the height of the shift lever short, you will have to use zip ties to keep the reverse lock- out cable from contacting the drive shaft as it did on the test car in the below picture. Setting the height in the higher ranges may not make this a requirement. Due to the geometry changes and how they may affect this cable, COBB Tuning is not responsible for any damages to the cable or driveshaft if you do not check the clearance and secure the cable if necessary. There is even a picture: http://www.cobbtuning.com/Double-Adjustable-Short-Throw-Shifter-LGT-Spec-B-p/224316.htm Click on the link for the instructions the picture is in there

Wow with your setup If I I would get the wiring kit from DW and follow this thread and rewire your fuel pump direct from the battery. Then rewire from the neg on the FPCM to the pump. Aftermarket pumps are flow rated at about 13.5-13.7 volts Also if you measure less than 13 volts at the battery with the car running you have a really weak alternator. I'd do the diode trick and if you don't want to do that replace the alternator. Maybe even do both. I'm not sure why you are having partial throttle problems but it can't hurt to fix the voltage to the pump. Especially running 1000's

I would do it as all aftermarket pumps are rated at about 13.5 volts

It depends on whether you keep the stock or STI FPCM in the circuit or just rewire direct to the pump Read the last half of the thread and you will know your answer

I'm amazed that the first quote you use from this whole thread is an early one during the verification stage of this problem Are you talking about the grounding kits people use under the hood? How would this affect the neg PWM signal coming from the FPCM to the fuel pump? The voltage drop is because of the voltage feed wire to the module being too small, and the wires from the PWM module both neg and pos being too small.

Waiting.........