Scooby2.5

Well actually it will work but the carrier bearing on a LGT or spec b is shorter from mounting point to bottom. The outback carrier bearing drops the shaft more. I am having problems with the rear seal wearing out and we think it is due to the angle difference. I am using a Legacy 4 speed auto shaft and should have bought a outback 4 speed auto shaft. I could space it down with spacers and longer bolts but wanted to maybe just get a different shaft. If i get a custom made shaft like hammerdown then I need the correct carrier bearing measurement

Yea pretty much any outback driveshaft carrier bearing would probably have the correct measurement. Different transmissions had different lengths but the carrier was the same I am pretty sure.

Anyone done a 6 speed swap in an Outback XT that still has an Outback XT driveshaft. I need a measurement of the height of the carrier bearing. The carrier bearing on an outback drops the shaft about 1 inch I believe. The Legacy GT carrier bearing and shaft is tucked up in the tunnel a bit more. Thanks

I did not think it was possible to use the STI DCCD controller That is why most purchased an aftermarket controller.

My dealer is taking the passenger side air bag out through the cubby hole without removing the dash.... Remove glovebox remove center cubby remove right side vent unbolt airbag remove through cubby hole Takes them 45min at the most

Yea the outback XT had the small 2.5i brakes. I first put LGT brakes on it and then the wildwood kit. I recently got a killer deal off the forum for a stop tech front BBK. In any case I have never had a firm pedal and the only thing I can attribute it to is the outback booster. Ive done a lot of research on the different boosters and what people have reported and honestly it makes no sense how some are firm and others are not. The OB booster is def a different part number than the rest. So I am going to try the STI booster. I found a good one that is a Bosch booster but been sitting on it for a few years just too lazy to make the switch I think its time I do it though..... It seems with the BBK and somewhat the wilwoods that because my booster doesn't allow for a firm pedal I get deposits on the rotor from the pads and it gets shudder. Seems to be worse if I have slotted rotors. The best most smooth use I had was the wildwood kit with Porterfield R4S pads and smooth Centric rotors. I have bedded each time per the manufacturer Anyway trying the booster soon to see how it does with the Stoptech ST40 kit.

Easiest way to change the plugs is to use a SOCKET ON The Spark plug socket. Do not use an extension. I have been changing these for years using extensions, knuckles etc etc then a friend of mine, a Subaru mechanic, told me to use the spark plug socket and then a socket on that. A spark plug socket has a hex head end where the extension goes in. Just put a socket onto that and go. WAAAAAAAY less time and easier as you don't have a hard time separating the extension from the socket on the back ones. Also if you break the coil pack connector, go here Outfront Motorsports has sourced the connectors from Subaru supplier If you go to eBay its free shipping. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Ignition-Coil-Wire-Harness-Terminal-Plug-Set-Impreza-WRX-STi-Connector-/300843950050?hash=item460bb25fe2:m:meXHc-cgW9PxYIMuWQ4Adtw&vxp=mtr How to swap them video

From the service Manual on Rod Length 1) Check and adjust the operating rod of brake booster. Standard L: 136.3 mm (5.38 in) If it is not within the specified value, adjust it by adjusting the brake booster operating rod.

I will say SBT, that a friend of mine has a LGT and his pedel feels real firm like the STI booster does (I have driven an outback with STI booster) Mine on the other hand feels super power assist for first 1/3 to 1/2 and then more firm. By the time you get to the more firm pedel it's way too much push and you are stopping to quick. I want the firm pedel from the start like Shawn LGT, and a friend outback with the STI booster. On all our cars we bled them by pumping and someone else opening the bleeder in the correct order

Nah SBT, its just a crappy outback MC and booster I think.....

Man I still have not done this. Need to get that booster off my shelf and do it, especially now that I have stop tech ST40 up front with still a mushy pedal

BTW turned 275K today......

Max Replace the wiring Harness in the hatch. Its really easy. It plugs into the the wagon cargo area light switch. I had to replace mine recently. I had fixed mine where it goes through the grommet but eventually it broke again. So I just ordered the whole harness. Piece of cake.....actually easier than fixing the old one. There is a write up on the forums somewhere with a really good step by step with pics. OOOPS i guess it says above you already replaced it.....my bad, well wonder whats up?

Selling a OEM 6 speed shift knob if anyone wants it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mo-oem-subaru-6-speed-knob-254209.html

selling DCCD switches mounted in console http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mo-console-top-dccd-6-speed-controls-extended-armrest-254194.html?p=5436702

My 05 starter worked fine as well......Still the same starter after 272K

Why the "fix"??.....All you need is a 4eat driveshaft for your outback and it bolts right up

KGB. Man you posted this a while ago. I have been off the forums for a while...... Yes I warmed it up pretty well before driving it. By the time it hit close to 100K it did pretty well only using about 1/2 quart of oil changed at 3K. The cylinder walls were .025 out though when the motor was pulled. I am not sure on the clearances difference. Id say the manley pistons are closer because of less noise. The JE pistons were not coated. Here are some pics after pulled http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/mo-ks-cobb-crower-b93768b-4-rods-je-pistons-247113.html?t=247113&highlight=cobb+rods If you call JE with the order number from my pistons they might be able to tell you if they were offset....

Grill in pic looks like 05 outback Grille

I need a JDM outback front bumper to go with my JDM rear bumper

Back on 8-8-13 I was having lines in my display. Lossol replaced mine around 8-29-2013. My replacement is now doing the same thing. Seems he has not been on this thread since I was discussing this with him almost 3 years ago. Anyone know whats going on these days with this whole project?

Guys I am having trouble finding the correct Oring from Subaru or online. Im working on a 2008 Subaru Outback H6 LLBean Sedan. Everywhere I look I see two different part numbers. The Oring I pulled out looked like the 34439AE020 but I purchased the car used so not sure if it has been replaced or not. Many places say my car takes the 34439FG000 This website shows it could be either. http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2008_OutbackLLBean/PUMP-POWER-STEERING/49502419/34430AG0119L.html I replaced it with the AE020 number and I still have the whine. Beginning to wonder if I need to use the FG000.

Greg, Thanks for the email and interest in Flex Fuel for your LGT! Currently, our development plan for FF is the new DIT cars up next (hopefully done soon!), then the 04-07 STI/06-07 WRX, and then we will investigate other vehicles. We have seen many requests for the LGT, so it is something we will consider. The hardware is just part of the solution, the full software implementation takes a large amount of engineering effort as well for each ECU supported in those model year ranges. We wish it was faster or easier, but we only have so many kick ass engineers available! Please keep an eye on our Facebook page for more details and we'll reach out if we need any test vehicles. Thanks again!

Just sent this to Ian Armstrong who used to be a CSR Lead/marketing. Ive known him for years via email and phone. He has helped me out a bunch. Anyway I have spent a lot of money with Cobb over the years. Hopefully they will respond and help us out. I can't speak highly enough for their products. There are times I have had other brands and switched to theirs and found them to be better. The shop in Plano TX is 8 hours from my house in MO but if I don't do the work myself this is the only place that touches my car. Im on my second built motor. First one went over 100K with my parts. The motor installed in Aug by them is even better because of built motor research they have done over the years. It doesn't use a drop of oil, had 2816 forged pistons and is really quiet compared to my first one. Great Company, Great people. Cant speak highly enough about them.......... Ian Not sure if this should go to you or someone else as I know you used to be CSR lead/marketing. I have been a huge supporter of Cobb over the 11 years I have owned and modded my outback XT. Spent thousands of dollars either buying your parts, being tuned, and 2 engines at Cobb in Plano TX. My last bill at Cobb plano was over 8K in August 2015 PLEASE, I beg you guys to support the LegacyGT community with a Flex Fuel kit. I live in an area of MO where e85 is hard to get, I daily drive my 400WHP Outback STI for work about 25K per year. This would help me out so much to be able to not worry about switching maps etc. and be able to just fill up anywhere. Here is a link to my car you probably remember it. http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/2005-stage-3-outback-xt-sti-seats-150039.html Surely you guys can adapt the 08 WRX kit to the legacy without too much trouble? Here is a thread that was started on legacygt.com http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/official-interest-cobb-flex-fuel-legacy-gt-platform-please-speak-248347.html?highlight=cobb+flex+fuel My future plans this summer included swapping my turbo to a Blouch 1.5XTR and adding the flex fuel kit. Ill be taking it to Chris and the guys at Cobb Plano TX from Independence MO. like I have done for years for the updated tune after the turbo swap. Thanks for everything you guys do, my car would not be the 400whp daily driver it is without you guys! Greg Nauman Independence MO 816.213.7203 gregnauman@me.com gregnauman@icloud.com

It will do it, mine did