Scooby2.5

You need to hurry your ass up.....

I did this very thing on my install. Took it apart and ran the wire right to the pin

Great looking wagon and great mod list

If its cheaper Id take the spec B shaft over the 4eat

Information from AEM E85 pump that Cobb sells. This is the pump I will be going with on my 2013 STI. I was reading the instructions and thought this was more good info that AEM provides...... Electrical Requirement The supply voltage will affect the fuel delivery of the AEM Fuel Pump. The typical electrical system on modern cars is between 13.2 – 14.2 volts. Although the AEM fuel pump will run at lower voltages the flow will be lower. Ensure the voltage is 13.5V at the pump. The current requirement is minimum 10 amps. The correct wire size will be determined by the length of wire, the wire type and the resistance of any terminals, splices or solder joints in the electrical or ground supply. The ground is equally important and the preferred ground is to route the ground wire to a star ground source that is directly attached to the battery negative post. The minimum wire gauge is 12ga. TXL wire. Twelve feet (12’)of TOTAL CIRCUIT length (power & ground) 12 ga. is required and Twenty feet (20’) 10 ga. is required. Before wiring the pump to the electrical system make sure the polarity is correct. Connecting the pump with reverse polarity will damage the pump and is not covered under warranty. Please note; the connector on the AEM 320-E LPH Fuel Pump has a small insulated wire on it between the positive and negative terminals. It must remain place, do not cut it off.

Use black and sell me the red one cheap Are those GTSpec or DAMD wheels?

I would but I sold the car Just go to the dealer and ask for the part and measure it. Might be easier with the skin off. When I got my beam it was in stock at the dealer.

Im not sure if it will work but when I put the JDM bumper on my Outback XT which was shorter I used the Sedan bumper beam and mounting brackets. It worked perfect. Look up my user name and JDM outback bumper thread

It is a Koyo Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

1 hour? [emoji23] I was driving 8 to go to Cobb Plano. [emoji51] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

You have to wash it off under there once in a while and it will look like this after 287K [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

This ^

The point was DCCD not the driving skills. [emoji849] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yea Underdog is still here, and so am I. I sold my Outback "STI" but Ill still be on the forums myself. Been on here since 2005, how could we ever leave???? Especially since my newly acquired 2013 STI hatch is a Legacy in different clothing to some degree...So many things are the same

Here you guys go..... A video of tracking a WRX that was 6 speed swapped with map DCCD controller. Yes the DCCD is worth it.......

I have Cobb on my built 2005 outback "STI" that just recently sold. My 2013 STI hatch I just purchased is getting Cobb. I'm almost 49 and I love the Cobb deep sound The. Ever Cobb units have a resonator in the mid pipe

Sounds like the Module is blown. It should change the reference to ground voltage to proved 33% 66% 100% pump duty cycle. If you have an AP you can check it on startup to see if it is changing but sounds like you found the problem. On startup it goes 100% for a few seconds then drops to 33%.

Guess I am not following you. When I go to the top of this page it says page 145 I can then click on page 143 and it takes me right to the page with the recent discussion on the STI 6 speed vs Spec b

Note: I said PAGE 143 not post....

No I meant, as I said, go back to PAGE 143, like 2 pages before this page and take a look. We had been discussing the STI 6 speed vs spec b 6 speed.

Go back to page 143 of this thread and read the posts....

https://allwheeldriveauto.com/seattle-area-subaru-burnt-exhaust-valve/

I believe it is partially a fueling issue. I replaced 2 motors with burned exhaust valves. Stock engine at 158K, built motor at 98K. I installed a FORE INNOVATIONS in-line fuel filter in my latest motor. It only has 30K on it right now. I believe that the cylinders are getting leaned out by poor fueling as the injectors get dirty. Subaru does not have a fuel filter and the sock in the tank is not enough. Subaru used to have an inline filter....... As well as the valve adjustment..... I will try to find the article of a Subaru shop that discussed this and why I started investigating fueling. Also I had run a set of ID1000 injectors in my first build and at one point around 60-70K they were so dirty they were out of spec. I was getting a misfire which led me to pull them. I had them cleaned and put back to spec and then about 15k later the misfire got worse and it was a valve. I believe the damage had already started as I could never get the misfire to fully go away no matter what I did and then it finally failed. If I were putting in a new motor or even had a fairly new Subaru turbo car, I would plumb in a really good inline filter.

How do you have DCCD without a controller? Guess I am not following you. Maybe you are hooking up a DCCD computer that is auto only?? Auto mode is great on tarmac I would agree. Locked in the snow is like driving a Jeep

To those who think it doesn't matter much to have it just amazes me after having driven both.....G-Force sensor in middle of car, TPS sensor, YAW steering sensor etc and a computer that moves the torque to different wheels to help understeer oversteer etc. but no it doesn't really do anything My STI with the SP600 tires DCCD, VDC, .93-.95 on the skidpad is like GLUE on a cloverleaf. Its actually pretty amazing. Would never, ever be without it now. One of the best mods I ever did to my outback and worth the $350-500 for the aftermarket DCCD. As fahr_side stated it transforms the car https://www.dccdpro.com