Scooby2.5

I will add that one benefit to the spec b over the outback and quite possibly the legacy gt is the size of the wire feeding the fuel pump from the fuel pump relay and also from the control module to the pump. We verified while doing the fuel pump mod that the spec B does have the same size/gauge wire as the STI. This allows you to drop in a pump and not really have to do anything because there is not a voltage drop. On the OBXT and possibly the legacy GT the wire is so small you get a voltage drop to the pump and because of this the pump may not put out the amount of flow per pump manufacturers. On my outback I had switched to a relayed feed to a STI control module and larger wire to the pump. A few threads about this. On my 2013 STI and also Zero1 spec b we found the wiring to be larger than the standard legacy/OB The wiring seemed to be the same on the spec b and the STI If you are running E85 you will want the wiring feeding the pump to the gauge necessary to allow whatever voltage your aftermarket pump requires for full flow. This will keep injector duty cycles down. Underdog did the final thread and provided the latest wiring diagram to use that does not drain the battery after many of us had done much work with this.... https://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fpcm-wiring-upgrade-relay-staying-switched-w-key-off-242295.html For reference here is a link to the voltage requirements for the AEM pump usually provided with the cobb flex fuel kit, AEM 320/340 https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/fuel-delivery/high-flow-fuel-pumps/320lph-high-flow-in-tank-fuel-pump-offset-inlet Greg

BTW I also was planning to use Motul in the future

Man id love to have it if you could ship it. I have about 3 liters here at the house. I could fill my transmission one last time. can you check about shipping it?

I havnet heard back from him for years, but here is another solution...... https://www.p3cars.com/subaru/

You want to sell me that liter of extra S?

I bought new, including the rubber boot under the surround. The badge is from a STI front lip I think. Cant remember where I got it but maybe ebay.

I purchased a spec B trim as the opening was larger and then used a STI badge in place of the SI drive badge. I posted it on here somewhere

suboperator, search my user name in this thread. I posted quite a bit of information about the shifter etc. Most just lengthened the shifter rod or bought the spec b rod or used a 08+ rod. I didn't think the cable had to be changed. Although I purchased the STS assembly for a spec B I believe and then used a Cobb shifter lever eventually. Its been a while since I did the swap but search my user name and you may find what you need.

And if you want it to be perfect, get an LGT 4EAT for a LGT swap and an Outback 4EAT shaft if going in an outback. Carrier bearing is different a bit. Either will work but better to get it from the same car

See post 832 no extension needed

The CEL would have nothing to do with the gauge Google the codes

Dont use an extension. See post 832 A spark plug socket has a hex end where the extension or ratchet connects. Use a socket on the spark plug socket. It works perfect. When you get the plug loose and start screwing it out you can easily separate the two so its not hitting the frame rail unlike the extension. Hope that helps for next time

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/upgrading-your-fuel-pump-wiring-4th-gen-213570.html

Oh the module is on the drivers side trunk area mounted on the side above the fender well on US cars. If yours is a sedan just take the trunk liner out on that side. It could be on the opposite side though, not sure

The AEM instructions would work if you want to bypass the fuel pump control module. If you do not i would wire it like the diagram. Yea you want to come from the fuel pump relay and its all shown in the document. Yes you want to use larger gauge wire to the pump. there are other threads on this, I was the first to start it as I was the one that discovered the wiring in a legacy was small. In turkey lords thread and another one there are pics. I popped the pins out and soldered to the pins new wire.

Also have him check the ground, maybe you have an intermitant ground or maybe the module is going bad

i would have him follow the diagram that was posted up to make sure you have it wired correctly. If you mean the relay is being triggered from the factory wiring, what you are calling ECU im not sure where he got the signal. The factory trigger signal to the fuel pump control module is from the fuel pump relay under the dash on the passenger side near the right foot/kick panel. It could be that relay is going bad if he wired it from there. Do you still have the FPCM in the car? I guess you do as you said it was changing from 33 66 100 duty cycle

I believe if my memory serves me correctly the answer is yes. I think shawn or someone used the sti mount

So I guess Andy isn't making these anymore? Has anyone been able to get a hold of him for support at all?? Just curious

Correct you want the legacy shaft for a legacy and the outback shaft for an outback. If you are an outback that has removed the suspension spacers you need a legacy shaft Most of us did not know the differences when we first performed the swap but it did not seem to have any problems and I ran mine like this over 100K. Back when we did it sourcing a used shaft from a 4eat was not as easy as it may be today. Remember many of US like hamerdown were the first people to do this At any rate we are just trying to say it will work just fine. Even though the alignment may be slightly off, like a lot of non subaru vehicles are, it works fine

I used a legacy shaft in OB with no spacers and it worked fine. Never had any vibration issues but you are correct its better on like car to like car

Here is how I mounted mine, looked factory. Just cut two holes with a dremel and snapped them in

Best mod I ever did to my outback XT. Loved it. And would never have gone back. Sold my car for 16K. Now driving my newer “Legacy” 13 WRX STI Hatchback.