Scooby2.5

DCCD auto on tarmac is awesome. Anyway to each his own. I wholeheartedly disagree. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yep 08-14 STI shifter linkage is identical to the spec b near as I could tell. I just bought a 2013 STI and I can't believe how similar this car is to my 2005 Outback XT (STI)

Let me know if he gets back to you. I have lines in my display again. Its happened twice. He replaced it once and now its doing it again.

Very similar actually with the DCCD Pro. The difference is the steering rack and the sp600 tires. The steering is SO QUICK with the STI rack. I was planning on doing the 2015 rack mod to my outback but decided to sell it. I will say the STI just handles better even though its the stock suspension and sways. In 2011 and up I believe they basically put some of the spec C stuff on the STI. Pillow ball joints in the control arms, larger sways, and stiffer springs. It seriously feels like a roller coaster when you turn it. Like its literally on rails. I think in some tests it was like .93-.95 on the skidpad, which is very close to 1.0g With all I did to the outback it is really good, but the STI is better. I honestly LOVE the DCCD, it just flat out works, aftermarket controller or stock STI. Good suspension bits and DCCD with sticky tires is just flat out ridiculous in a clover leaf

Here is why you want the STI transmission everyone. Now that I have an actual STI and my STI 6 speed swapped outback Ive been driving, I can tell you this guy is spot on...... That Differential Makes One Hell of a Difference Most of our time at the event was spent in Imprezas and WRXs, but we were allowed a few laps in an STI toward the end of the day. A handful of things were readily apparent — the top-of-the-line WRX offers a lot more mechanical grip, damping refinement, and steering feel than its lesser brethren — but it was the adjustable center differential that truly stood out. Simply put, the sucker just works. When you lock the diff, the STI turns in less readily on the power but launches itself out of corners as if hooked to God's own trebuchet. Unlock the diff, and the car rotates easier but slews and wanders from apex to corner exit. Scandanavian flicks — Ha! I just realized this! I Scandanavian flicked a car with an actual Scandanavian inside it! My life is complete! — are easier with the diff locked because you have more control over both the initial degree of yaw (the product of the "flick"), and because the extra traction helps you adjust the car's attitude while sideways. "You must live with my English, which is Norwegian English, which is not very perfect. But have the guts to be on the power. The car will not work properly without it. Exit speed, power, exit speed, power!" — John Haugland In short, like the amazing active rear differential in Mitsubishi's Evolution, I want to put one of these things in every machine I own. (Yes, even the appliances. Attention, brave little toaster: Oversteer my bagel! Go!)

I think Spec B stuff is quite a bit cheaper, doesn't have the Torsen and Heilical limited slips and of course the Driver Controlled Center Diff. I honestly can't imagine the 6 speed swap without those items.

^ Didn't see the axels etc in the purchase link, Hope you got them....

See post 212. That is the spec for legacy Pretty sure you have to match legacy spec or you have issues because of rod length and firewall width etc.

Go back and look at it again. One is the earlier 6 speed which had a different gear ratio than the later ones. Your rear diff has to match the transmission. Has nothing to do with the 5 speed. Although I will say some Subaru's with a 5 speed had an R160 rear diff with the correct gear ratio. Your second line is the way to go.........."get 08 STI 6spd, 08 STI rear diff, Spec-B axles, Spec-b/4eat driveshaft, assorted small parts and go" You need the spec b 6 speed driveshaft or the driveshaft out of a 4eat legacy or outback....Dont think a spec b was ever an auto

Buy mine. It's mostly done for you

This is weird. My was done in 45 minutes and no dash removal at all Wonder what else it was that he said needed added? Does it show on your service invoice?

My dealer did not pull the dash and I watched them do it. Pretty slick what they did. I wrote about it in previous post. Too bad for those that don't have smarter technicians

exactly

Meeeeee tooooo!!!

Yep I had the grimmspeed first. Swapped to heated Crawford.

Most of them you don't have to empty. Read that thread above. A guy put clear tubing and shows how the oil cap type doesn't drain well

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2228499 I have had both and believe the crawford which has been around forever works better. I have the V2 because I live in a climate that has cold weather

Correct. You could try again but the skin seemed to be too tight up against the beam not quite enough room

Yea if you take the motors apart to clean them def mark the gears and position of the arm, thats what I did. I didn't take the metal brackets out of the car just bottom screws and screws into actuator and left the top metal bracket screw alone. That way I didn't have to fight it getting it back in.

I took the bottom bracket screw out, then took the screws that screw the actuator to that bracket out. Then bent it up a bit and took actuator out. Put new actuator in and pushed bracket back down. Put the screws through the bracket into the actuator and then screwed the bracket screw in. I did not take the very top screw out of the bracket into the car. Too hard to get to and then have to put back in.

I have done the same a while back. Even emailed a contact I have known for years at Cobb. Its probably not going to happen any time soon. I think the system they have now is for can bus cars.... Ive been running E85 for years and never had a problem but it sure would be nice to have the kit especially being in MO where they go E70 in the winter and then in the spring you may get a mix blend. I usually just check it first......

Thanks must have missed it

If you are working on the clicking actuators just turn your key on, and work your heater controls. Mode switch, etc and see which one is making the clicking sound. You will see them try to work after the heater is shut off if they are bad. Or you will see them continue to try to work/adjust after selecting a different mode etc.

Not yet