Scooby2.5

Yea your right, nut is not bothered if you pop it out of the clamp. That's what I was thinking of....... Maybe some goof ball thought you had to remove nut????

Many shops pop the ball joint out to flip wheels forward to more easily pull axels out of hub and transmission. My guess is that is what was done.

Same as turkeylord

Oh I gotcha wasn't thinking camera.

Cobbled reverse cam???? On the Cobb shifter I wonder if they followed the instructions? Have to flip reverse linkage forward and hold with Allen wrench to get slack in cable. Yep it's a sweet swap one of my favorite

Exactly. I'm running 425 ft lb wheel torque in an outback XT with a 2.5i 4eat sedan driveshaft. Fits perfect and works perfect.

Ok I got ya I guess just wasn't paying attention to the fact you are running stereo feed or what have you to the back.

So you put a fuse at the battery and then a fuse at the back off the relay feeding the pump. Why 2?

You put your fuse for the battery lead at the back instead of by the battery? Hope it never blows, cause it will blow changing it LOL PUN intended.... http://i.imgur.com/OFnObhrl.jpg

Exactly what I did. Here are some pics of DW kit already run and a pic of one of the pins soldered on a wire (hadn't shrink wrapped it yet). I like how the DW kit has a relay socket and also a metal loop on the back to use the FPCM nut and bolt to mount it. I used yellow and red wire. Yellow for the Green/Yellow wire to the pump and Red for the Green/Red wire to the pump. All 12GA Also SBT the red wire coming from the battery may seem a bit short if you have a wagon but the length of wire on the socket allows it to be just long enough

Yes you have to have a relay so power is not live to the pump all the time. This relay needs to be switched "on" by the red and black wire coming from the original fuel pump relay. I ran the pos batt wire through the firewall at the rubber plug in the middle of the firewall near dog bone. From there across to driver kick panel area and then down the side of the car. The carpet is held down with the black trim pieces and if you just pull on them they pop off. You will see the factory harness there and just run along with it. Once you get to the back seat area just follow wiring harness to the back of the car where the FPCM is. You will place the relay there. Then from the relay back to under the seat and over to pump via rubber grommet on drivers side access, then below floor to the pump access.

Lastly I would say if your alternator is weak, and will only output 13.5-13.8 volts which is common on a Subaru, then placing a diode in the ALT Sensing line will bump the output up to 14.2-14.5 like it really should be. Thanks Frankster and KCwagon for finding this tip! http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/raise-your-alternator-voltage-10547.html?amp

Actually the STI module you want to use is the 2004-2007 WRX and STI. If you look in the first few pages of the other thread I believe Unclemat found that the 2008 up WRX uses the the same module as the legacy. We also put up a listing of the cars using the older style. The interesting thing is the older module was like $300 from Subaru and the newer one is $90 We were buying ours used off eBay or NASIOC. I also with the help of Calvin Dotson the tuner for Cobb Plano, found that the stock module even if directly powered from the battery would output only around 12.5-12.7 volts. The WRX/STI module would output 13.7

^Nice..... Plus its easier to solder 12awg to the pins

I might add also that 12ga wire is plenty big enough from the battery and also over to the pump. I just purchased the kit from DW and it was pretty good. Had a socket for the Relay, the really had a tab to bolt it to the FPCM bolt and also had a fuse holder in the batter feed. http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/accessories/fuel-pump-hardwire-installation-kit-detail A lot of guys are using 10 gauge which is more expensive and overkill really. The wiring in a stock STI which doesn't have this problem is around 14 gauge near as I could tell. For those that want to remove the pins, you can go to the original thread and there is information on removing the pins from the connectors which is pretty easily done and then you can solder right on the pin.

Not good. The green yellow is the wire that runs out of the FPCM to the fuel pump. If you are not using that wire anymore because you ran power off the new relay direct to the pump I still wouldn't use that to trigger the new relay. That is the voltage coming out of the pump module and has a big capacitor in it. When the key shuts off the module may stay on for a while until it bleeds off but not sure. I wouldn't be using that to power the relay. Look at colds drawings he posted up a few posts ago they are very good and give the color codes. Red and black wire from stock fuel pump relay should be the new relay trigger

Are you using the red wire with black stripe that fed the FPCM? If so that is a key on power fed from the stock fuel pump relay which I believe is on the passenger side kick panel near the door if I remember correctly. I would say your FACTORY fuel pump relay or your new one has a problem if you are using that red wire. If you are turn the key on and see if you have voltage on it. Then turn key off and see if its gone.

I rewired mine this weekend as well. The wiring job and relay setup I had from working on it at Cobb left a lot to be desired and I hadn't yet increased the wire size to the pump from the module. I ran 12 gauge wire from battery to my new relay, using the old module feed to trigger the new relay. I ran 12 gauge wire from the new relay straight to the fuel pump, using STI pins in my old connector. I ran 12 gauge wire from the neg PWM signal off the module straight to the pump. I did this by removing the pins from the connector and soldering 12 ga wire right to the pin on the module end and using STI pins on the pump end. Just a note the STI wiring harness to and from the FPCM , and to and from the pump is 14 gauge. Really more than enough for 12-15 volts. When I was done and with the Diode mod, I was seeing about 14.5 volts coming out of my relay, headed toward the pump when I first started the car. After the car warms up I usually see around 14.2 I didn't want to get my scope out so I didn't measure the PWM negative side but it seemed to be changing just fine on the AP. Ill post up some pics of what mine looks like later tonight

Just as a refresher........ The STI module did put out 1 more volt with battery voltage feeding it as opposed to the stock module.....

Here it is.....pump plug harness from impreza.

Nice drawings that should help...... Now what I did today..... I had purchased the fuel pump plug wiring from an STI. The part number 81803FG010 someone (Aracheon) had provided earlier on in the thread. This wiring has 6 wires just like the Legacy with the exception of the positive and negative feed wires going into the fuel pump plug were larger. Alot of guys were running larger wire from the FPCM to the fuel pump plug and splicing to the smaller wire just an inch or two on the outside of the fuel pump plug. I took the new STI wiring harness and was able to POP the pins out of the plug. I am going to solder my large wire onto the pins/wire I took out of the STI harness and run that wire back to the module and or the fuel pump relay. I am then going to just push those pins into my existing pump harness so it should be clean and neat. Here are pictures on how to get the pins out of the fuel pump plug. Left to right.... 1. Pry up the top of the plug, it hinges back. (already done in the first pic) 2. Pry off the white 'cap' 3. Stick a small screw driver into the pin area and pry up the keeper tab and at the same time pull on the wire from the back side. 4. Same on the second row of pins. I only took the 2 lower guage wires out of the STI harness as seen in the last pic. Notice how the green with yellow stripe is around 10-12 gauge wire and the green with red stripe is the same. These are the wires from the module to the pump positve and negative and Subaru made them larger on the STI. The colors are the same on all wires both legacy and STI, but these two feed wires to the pump are larger on the STI harness. I will POP those into my stock harness and run lower guage wire direct from there either to the module or the relay depending on which way I decide to do it tomorrow.

I think the one guy I mentioned or Shawn mentioned would be laughing a bit. He wired battery direct to pump and negative of module to pump he left alone. Seems like a long time ago but you would have to check his post in the NASIOC thread we posted earlier