Scooby2.5

I don't think the angle of the shaft and the bearing matter much. I have a 6 speed swap and I am using a 4eat legacy drive shaft in my outback XT and its just fine. No vibration or anything. Once I do the swap it should be even better since Im already using the legacy shaft

One thing to be aware of if you do this swap out from the OB to legacy setup. The motor will stick up into the engine bay the width of the removed spacers. I compared mine to my buddies LGT and his motor is def more close to the hood, and the tranny is closer to the tunnel. Hence the reason for the steering joint being changed out. Anyway not a big deal unless you have a FMIC piping that is a bit tall like on the AVO FMIC like I have. On my outback the turbo outlet is fine and no problems with it hitting the understde of the hood. On a lot of LGT's the turbo outlet has to be trimmed down because it hits the underside of the hood. Ill be doing this soon and have been looking at some of the differences and this is another thing I noticed

Thumbs up! (can't find the icon LOL)

Again IMHO I would purchase and install a new STI flywheel and new STI clutch. Subaru dealers do not resurface flywheels...... Trust me you don't want to pull it out again and those items are not that expensive from fred beans etc!

Go with the STI flywheel and the STI clutch, they are just a bit larger.

Search this thread for male and stubs and you will find your answer I believe. I just did it and found a few posts about this already......

Well we installed zero1's fuel pump upgrade this past week into his 08 spec B and what did we find..... The wiring is the same size as the STI!!!!!! I guess the Spec B is special after all Anyway we went ahead and wired the DW kit with relayed direct voltage to the pump but left the rest of it alone. Not sure we even needed to do that...... Here are a couple pics of the wiring. That last pic just shows how we flipped the module mount and and bolted the relay but was by no means buttoned up As you can see the wiring is as large or larger than an STI and I would guess really nothing needed to be done to this. Ben will be running a rotated setup so we thought to just run direct battery voltage to the pump anyway. We just popped the pins out of the module connector and the pump connector so we could return it to stock later if needed. When done with the modified fuse installed we had 14.8 volts at the pump area on a cold startup day..... http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/23/gyrahe7e.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/23/a8umu6y3.jpg http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/23/reha6aze.jpg

Yea the opening is a bit larger but not a lot. If you keep the 5 speed bezel do what shawn did with the redline boot

Subaru Spec B shifter bezel 92121AG10B Only thing is boot is pleather. I just purchased a redline boot to replace the pleather one and its nice.

Correct^ I used a 4EAT driveshaft in my swap. Put my R160 Yoke on the R180 and bolted the shaft right up. Make sure you are using the R180 Cradle for the rear diff

I agree about the clean install hence my posts about the pin. Your initial question was do I have to splice. I answered, pop the pin out of the module and solder/crimp the new wire for the relay right on the pin. Neat and clean. You either connect it at the pin or splice it in the middle of the wire. Your choice. Regardless, that wire has to feed two places, so really it's some sort of "splice" to the existing module and the new relay. I'm actually not sure why the initial question. If a factory wire needs to feed another new relay it has to be "spliced" somewhere. These two threads have been literally beat to death with people trying to reinvent the wheel, hence the frustration. I would have thought SBT doing the wiring diagram and parts list would have ended all the questions. Heck I had one this week, what parts do I need. Really? Are you kidding me. If people would just read the thread and study it out its all spelled out for them.

If you do not understand how to wire this with the drawing provided by SBT, I would stop right where you are and take it to a tech that understands wiring. If the franz only got the pins for the fuel pump, fine, I don't care....from what I understand the other pins are available as well....so not sure why you quote him If you don't want to source the FPCM plug pins, pop the existing pin out, bend the tabs open on the existing pin/wire and solder the new wire onto the pin and feed it back to 86 on the new relay and bend tabs shut. THEN PUT PIN BACK IN CONNECTOR! NO SPLICE that way! Pretty simple really. I don't know where you get the idea I said to PERMANENTLY remove that pin. I said pop it out solder to it and I would think you would understand to put it back. LOL!!! That way you are not SPLICING! Im not contradicting anyone, in fact I am the original guy that fixed this problem along with zorro. Lastly please delete your "modified" pictures, this will do nothing but add to the confusion and cause more people to ask more questions....

In your picture you asked "can we just wire from 86 direct from B+. That is essentially what the picture shows so yes. I popped the pin out of the FPCM and connected right at the pin. If you bought new pins, pop the B+ pin out, clip old pin off and terminate the new pin into the factory wire and the new wire that runs over to 86 of the relay. That make sense?

Look at the wiring diagram SBT put up for everyone and I think you will answer your own question. With that said, the answer is yes/no as I am not really understanding you statement. The original B+ wire at the FPCM comes from the FACTORY fuel pump relay to B+ on FPCM This is one of the culprit wires that is way too small. This wire needs to BOTH feed the new relay AND the FPCM It feeds voltage to the FPCM but it also needs to feed the NEW RELAY coil to "SWITCH" it on, which provides voltage from the battery to the pump. This way you have voltage turning on the new relay for the battery voltage direct to the pump AND you have voltage feeding the FPCM so the negative lead to the pump is Pulse Width Modulated

Yea uncle mat I found the same thing with the console piece. The other funny thing about it was my outback XT had a leather boot. The spec B surround was PLEATHER More expensive car and less quality is some areas, crazy! Why your second 6 speed swap? I am on my second as well. First one was used had a problem with a needle bearing in the 5th-6th cluster and was whining like a banshee. So I bought a new one from phoenix performance, at a killer deal.

Come to KC MO and Ill help ya How do you think I feel, I was one of the main guys to discover this on a E85 tune. I was stuck in the parking lot at Cobb tuning plano 8 hours from home trying to figure out why my car wouldn't push the horsepower like similar STI's that just got off the dyno. The whole problem was the pump wasn't running at high enough voltage. Injector duty cycle was maxed out and AFR's were jacked. It cost me about a grand to figure it all out. Bought a pump and fuel pressure regulator while there, which made me redo the custom fuel lines. We initially thought those were the cause. I also had to pay for some troubleshooting because we didn't know what was causing it and we were pulling the car on and off the dyno. I finally had to leave the car to go back to work (was on vacation) so I had to pay for them to finish up the wiring and mail the STI module to Calvin. All in all I do like having the Aeromotive pump and regulator though Then later on I re-wired the whole thing to my liking. NOT Good! Thats why I shared all this when I found the original thread with people asking the question. Funny thing is if you have an aftermarket pump, like aeromotive, they tell you to rewire it in the instructions and its pretty close to what we have done minus keeping the module in the circuit. I never imagined the wiring on an LGT would be that much smaller than a STI. Any way to save money I guess.....

That's why zorro's way of wiring it is better because it bypasses the 1 v drop across the legacy module. STI module didn't seem to do that in our testing

You are correct. Since you are wired direct to the pump with Full on battery voltage. The module will not show much of a difference cause the way you have it now you are only using the negative from the module. If you wire your battery feed to feeding the module and you measure across the output you are measure across module positive and module negative. Instead of batt pos and module negative. In other words on the ground side of the module the difference in the two modules is only about .2 On the positive output of the module the difference in the two modules is about .8-1 v If you use both outputs of the module with a good batt feed one module is dropping about 1 volt on the POS side

Yes Difference being measuring across neg of module to pos from battery Or Across pos OUT of module and neg OUT of module And good battery feed TO the module.

Not sure. Calvin did that part. We fed 13.8 volts (what my alt output) direct to the MODULE feed and then across the neg and pos out of the module we got 12.5 with the legacy one and 13.5 with the STI one. By just switching modules at the plug. Another STI we tested at the shop was 13.7 out of module pos and neg. Now most of us are direct feed to the PUMP and measuring across batt/alt to neg module.

Found it.....

Found it posted it again in other thread. If we ran decent voltage to the module. The modules were 1 volt difference. Legacy was 12.5. STI was 13.5 We were testing this feeding the module the correct or direct bat/alt voltage and then pos from module to pump and neg from module to pump.

Found it.....