silverton

I'm sure replacing both of your AF sensors wont hurt. In my experience, cleaning the MAF doesn't do a whole lot and need to be replaced instead. If you have a friend with the same model, part numbers are pretty clear on the sensor, swap them and see if yours improves. Unfortunately a 380 does not interchange with a 38A, that car was triple unhappy It's a bit much to screenshot so I'll type it out. 1: Check for exhaust leaks 2: Check for intake leaks Repair any leaks. which you seem confident you have done 3: Check fuel pressure (340 — 400 kPa (3.5 — 4.1 kg/cm2, 49 — 58 psi) Check the fuel pump and delivery line if out of spec. 4: Check engine coolant temp sensor (value should be 167F or more with the engine warmed up) Replace the engine coolant temp sensor if it is reading low. 5: Check Mass Air Flow data (MAF should read between 2.0-5.0 g/s fully warmed up (as above) at idle) Replace the MAF if data is out of spec. 6: Check Intake Air Temperature data (subtract ambient from indicated intake temp, math should work out between -18 and 90F) Replace the MAF if data is out of spec, even if MAF g/s is correct. If your IAT data is within spec, it says to repair poor contact of ECM connector. 9.5 out of 10 times, wiring is NOT the issue.

p0171 covers intake and exhaust leaks, and ECT and MAF sensor replacements, never touches on O2 sensor data. alldata's "find a fix" says spark plugs have been the verified fix for that code.

Instead of the idle relearn procedure, we cleaned the throttle body. It's just what we were told to do, I have no idea what merit there is in it, but the cars generally left happy. The idle relearn procedure is letting it idle for 15-20 minutes after the battery has been disconnected, and we didn't have time for that.

When I was a lube tech at a local dealership we would clean the throttle body vs doing the 20 minute idle relearn procedure when we would replace batteries. I just got to the point I leave the car running when I replace a battery, much easier. Plus, it's risky and makes me feel alive

I believe you'll want to follow Drive Cycle A, as detailed here: https://www.suoutback.com/drive_cycle-1102.html Drive at 50+ for 10 minutes, idle for 1 minute. You'll want to do two of these. Turn the car off for 1-5 minutes between drives.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2016_Legacy-25L-CVT-4WD-Premium-Sedan/_52016_6463918/BATTERY-EQUIPMENT/B15-820-01.html It's a B400 in dealership speak.

As someone who put himself around 10k in debt building an NA-T, it's far cheaper to build it right the first time. Read read read, learn learn learn, then buy. You can only pick two of these three when building a car. Cheap. Fast. Reliable. I went the cheap/fast route, not a good idea, as the cheap parts never hold up when you want to go fast.

I went through three sets of coilovers on my GC. cheap $500, mid range $1000, and expensive $1500+. I hated the cheap and mid range. the car was awful to drive and I hated it. The $1500 set was really nice until the car was stolen and they blew a couple of them. I replaced that set with KYB AGX's and SPT springs; I fell in love with the car again.

I would suspect the switch, it's very rarely the wiring.

I often find these bulbs not installed right, and have only seen one where the lock tab was broken off. It's pretty easy on a lift, take the one pin out holding the fender liner to the bumper, stuff in it and hook it on the tread of the tire. I can't fathom doing this on the ground. One of my cohorts claims to have done a passenger side from the top, but I don't believe him.

3rd gen, easy 4th gen, slightly more difficult 5th gen, fuck you 6th gen, we're sorry

I am in the PacificNW where there is a hefty subaru tax

4 months ago I paid $26k for my '17 with 59k on it and it was the only one within 500 miles at that time. So you're absolutely correct, 3.6's are few and far between especially if you're looking for a Legacy over an Outback. There's only two 3.6's on my local craigslist at the moment, both on rot lots. a blue 17 with tan interior; 27k miles for $26k, and a white 16 with black interior; 113k miles for $16k

I used to do some detailing on the side. I ended up getting to experience a supercharged mr2, with mods, as the guy brought it to me just before a cold spell and just like you, I only had outdoor work areas at the time. Owner told me if i wrecked it i bought it but to have fun with it if I wanted. embarassing cars with 2.5-3 times the displacement is the definition of happiness

extension cord and an electric heater, should be able to put and keep some heat in the panels.

The pump for the front sprayer is right next to the pump for the rear sprayer, behind the left front wheel well liner.

30 miles remaining is basically a gallon left and absolutely no way for DTE to be accurate. I'm sure the low fuel level light was on and had been on, this was definitely driver error putting too much trust in a convenience feature. Sorry you got left stranded but this isn't the cars fault. That being said, my DTE seems to go off the last tank. If it was all freeway driving my DTE is over 300. if I did my usual 4 mile round trip work commute the whole tank, it'll show less than 200. My average MPG displayed has been exactly +1 of actual each tank I've put in my car.

Finally got the goods! With this info, since I believe they're assuming I flushed it, I'll be doing a few more drain and fills, and then waiting another 60k.

If it reads 250 all the time, it can't see the sensor. This can be indicative that the sensor is bad, but if you've replaced with a known good one, then it's time to dig. There is only one coolant temp sensor, it feeds the ECM and it passes the info along to the cluster. Do you have all the engine grounds attached securely?

awe jeez... must be the 2.5 that got 'em in '17 then.

Got good news from the oil! Probably another week before the CVT report comes back. I may actually extend my OCI's to 3750-4250, but since oil is practically free for me i may still stick to 3000 just for the hell of it. This reported oil is from a local Subaru dealership. For comparison sake, here is my 2001 Legacy, with a fresh EJ25, it's had a few samples tested... block assembled by local shop with ACL race bearings, and engine assembled by me. This one doesn't look near as good...

2017 was the start of HID's. 15 and 16 use halogen projectors like I said in my previous post.

I enjoy my 2017 Legacy 3.6 but I will admit the interior is a tad dated and should have held out for an '18 or '19... but I got a REALLY nice 17 so I can't be mad.

But....what was the code?

the 15 came with halogen projectors, so if your head lights are stock, you can replace the bulb. They're really easy to get to, the model number is on the bulb, i can't remember off the top of my head.