silverton

They may have acquired an SSM setup? all it is is a piece of software and a denso dst-i interface box.

This is true if you have the knowledge. But do be careful, legitimate shops have insurance to cover their ass.

does your shop not have access to alldata? On turbo motors you put RTV over the cam humps at the front, and across the half moons on the back. NA valve covers are installed dry.

penny wise and pound foolish!

the CVT's need a 'relearn procedure' that requires a subaru select monitor, or SSM. dealer tool. If you have a local subaru specialty shop, they should be able to do it for you.

90w gear oil covers you down to 0 degrees celcius, 75w90 if it gets colder for you. difficulty shifting, noise. there's a dipstick, check it.

OP is looking for a performance increase but without much noise added, so headers are right up his alley, got to pay to play...especially with a platform that has slim to nil for aftermarket.

raptor and inferno make exhaust systems for the 3.6. agree with m sprank on nameless, they are known to be obnoxiously loud

I would avoid NGK and NTK. They make good spark plugs, but not much else. 60 day warranty on their parts tells me they dont stand behind them. Denso O2's are 30 days, even worse! Bosch and Delphi are 12 months.

Did you swap the rear differential to match the final drive of the transmission you installed?

My current shop sees an astronomical number of six cylinder cars compared to when I was at the dealer. At the dealer I thought they were as uncommon as an STi. That being said, all the six cylinders that do come through, convinced me to buy one. Some have definitely made me cringe, but then you look at the service history and its like the car didn't exist til now I've yet to see major consistent problems on the six cylinders other than the ones that weren't cared for, IE pretty much every FB out there needs a 'cam carrier reseal'.

Not only possible, but recomended! I put a larger wing on my GC and had to be careful shutting it. It would catch me and other people off guard cause once it hit a certain point, didn't take long, gravity took over and SLAM

That's where my torque specifications are from, I do find it odd they tell you to use all OE spec and then say 'wait nevermind'

https://strongforsubaru.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/How_to_bleed_Subaru_Power_Steering_systems.pdf

MAF replacement is pretty standard for p0171/2

I comprehended it just fine bud. they mentioned whitelines spec and haynes spec... whitelines spec says to refer to the factory service manual so... I did.

Chiming in cause I read someone say "7 foot pounds of torque" and I knew that had to be wrong for any kind of suspension component... it is suggested to replace these nuts if you remove them but... it's probably fine. The inner and outer lateral link nut torque is 80nm/59ft-lbs The swaybar endlink nut torque is 33nm/24.3ft-lb The strut nut torque is 120nm/88.5ft-lb

is your check engine light illuminated?

That's always been my assumption, JDM cars might be extra cool and have two. the US does have the most relaxed headlight laws of any nation AFAIK.

You'd be surprised by the number of cars that need to be jumpstarted when they're new too; they can sit for a long time. That being said, a 2019 should have most of the kinks worked out so a bit strange the car will be on its third battery, and needed that oring replaced. Neither are normal, but it's probably also not something to worry about. Hard to say what the previous owners use case was, frequent short trips and long sits over a winter season will murder a battery. I would recommend having an independent, preferably subaru, shop do a 'pre purchase inspection' before you sign anything just to be on the safe side.

You can't talk to me that way! *Points towards my embroidered technician shirt*

TIL motortrend is a reputable source and not just a magazine that belongs in the checkout aisle at grocery stores next to the national enquirer...

I assumed when I first read this it was "power unit back up", but the picture didn't provide enough information, so thank you ammcinnis!

I'm sure replacing both of your AF sensors wont hurt. In my experience, cleaning the MAF doesn't do a whole lot and need to be replaced instead. If you have a friend with the same model, part numbers are pretty clear on the sensor, swap them and see if yours improves. Unfortunately a 380 does not interchange with a 38A, that car was triple unhappy It's a bit much to screenshot so I'll type it out. 1: Check for exhaust leaks 2: Check for intake leaks Repair any leaks. which you seem confident you have done 3: Check fuel pressure (340 — 400 kPa (3.5 — 4.1 kg/cm2, 49 — 58 psi) Check the fuel pump and delivery line if out of spec. 4: Check engine coolant temp sensor (value should be 167F or more with the engine warmed up) Replace the engine coolant temp sensor if it is reading low. 5: Check Mass Air Flow data (MAF should read between 2.0-5.0 g/s fully warmed up (as above) at idle) Replace the MAF if data is out of spec. 6: Check Intake Air Temperature data (subtract ambient from indicated intake temp, math should work out between -18 and 90F) Replace the MAF if data is out of spec, even if MAF g/s is correct. If your IAT data is within spec, it says to repair poor contact of ECM connector. 9.5 out of 10 times, wiring is NOT the issue.

p0171 covers intake and exhaust leaks, and ECT and MAF sensor replacements, never touches on O2 sensor data. alldata's "find a fix" says spark plugs have been the verified fix for that code.