silverton

I recommend the purge solenoid in one of his other three threads on the same topic.

The PCV valve on the EZ30/36 is on the left side valve cover, so I don't think that's what you're hearing here. the PCV valve should be replaced every 30 to 60k miles but the component I suspect is the solenoid.

It does sound deep but I also know noises don't always translate well in recorded video. I have a feeling it's the 'Purge control solenoid valve', Item #6 in the diagram.

Starrett and Mitutoyo seem to be the go to for quality and accuracy.

I looked in to buying the tools to measure clearances at home to assemble my own block, and yes... the cost of the tools to do my one block, accurately, was the same cost as taking it to a machine shop to be assembled. If I was going to be doing it over and over again, I'd have bought them, but for just mine... I couldn't. Here's alldata's info on the 2005 LGT camshaft, usually this stuff is straight from the FSM.

Grounds on the 15 3.6R are center rear. One on each case half here marked in red.

You can usually find the engine grounds on the rear top side of the block. Sometimes the starter bolt holds one. It's not a waste of time if the dealership has tried to fix the car multiple times and the same problem keeps appearing. You can even escalate this all the way up to Subaru HQ.

I guess I'll reply to the one that is probably in the most correct forum. I don't think this is a warranty issue(being an ez30) or a rebuild question. While you're hearing the noise, touch the solenoids/sensors you see. You should be able to feel the one making the noise. So... how many six cylinder Subaru's are in Brazil?

Have you been taking it to a dealer? If so you have some ground to stand on in going back, even outside of warranty as it sounds like whatever the issue is, they never fixed it.

You purchased the vehicle at 215,000. Do you have detailed service history to back that up? YUGE assumption pal.

If you have a CTS code replace the sensor. For funsies you can check the data for the coolant temp sensor to see what value it's sending the ECM. With the temp gauge pegging hot I'm sure you'll see some crazy high number in there, and that's why the car is running like garbage, it thinks the coolant is molten lava.

at 275, with a purchase mileage of 215. I'd be absolutely flabbergasted if this motor had never been removed. Timing belt and valve adjustment in car, it can be done but YIKES who would??

This does the same thing as loosening the oil cap, just a smaller vent port so takes longer for the air to find its way out. I check oil 8+ times a day, and generally right after they've been running. If it's anywhere between the dots it's fine. if it's below the dot, wait a few minutes and check again, if it's not even on the stick, well shame on you!

Does it start and run? It could be a ground or voltage issue but that sensor shares ground and voltage with other sensors, if you could check for DTC's that would help, but you could start by replacing the coolant temp sensor. it's going to be on the right(passenger) side of the engine. Either on the front or the back of the cross over. check behind the power steering pump, it is located similarly on the back side if you don't see it on the front.

I didn't notice this the first time, but... that pitch stop isn't just "a little loose" that's practically falling off.

\ First picture is the AC drain line like someone already said. Automatic Subaru's use one bolt and one nut to attach, but there is still another bolt you need to remove to separate the bell housing from the block, you can see it in the photo. Both of those lines are vents for the differential/transmission.

under the intake manifold is the coolant cross over

Nice ride buddy! I love the power of the 3.6 in my sixth gen, but i still prefer to drive my third gen. third gen is best gen, fight me about it.

80 is probably enough, but spec is 120nm or, 88.5ft-lb. At least on all the current stuff, I remember looking up spec for my 2001 impreza and legacy and it is 88nm or, 65ft-lb... that seems WAY too light. But the wheels weighed less too.

In my experience even on the rustiest cars the threads of the caliper bolt aren't often messed up, it's the hole through the knuckle and the non-threaded part of the bolt that get rusty and cause the seizing. If you hammer the rotor loose of the hub if isn't already, and then use a punch on the busted end of the bolt, maybe you can push it through the knuckle?

hopefully you're already soaking it with wd40 or pb blaster. If any of the bolt is sticking through the caliper bracket you can try to grab it with channel locks. a bolt or stud extractor will be your best bet but, assuming, the caliper bracket still on that could be difficult. If you can find a way to finagle the bracket/rotor off that will make your job a million times easier.

If they have the same part number, it's the same part, and it will literally be the worst game of spot the difference in your life. So long as the part numbers for the left and right sensors are the same as well, swap way.

I used a Power Stop geomet coated rotor and pad kit, along with their red coated calipers on my 2001, and it stops better than my 2017. The shop I work at uses either OEM or oreilly brand whatevertheheckthatis, and I don't notice a difference in how they bed.

I find it easy to use an aim'n'flame(bbq lighter) for checking exhaust leaks. the flame wont stay lit with a leak. You didn't mention what your mileage was, but if it's been at least 60k since you've done spark plugs, it's long over due and I recommend a major service! the engine air filter is easy enough to check yourself, and a way to get fuel out of the equation is do a couple...maybe three tanks of premium and see what you get. For what it's worth, my current tank with my 3.6 has been ALL city, I have a two mile commute and I let it warm up 10-15 minutes in the morning, and I'm getting about 11mpg using regular fuel, my next tank will be premium. My last two tanks with a solid driving mix using regular were 16 and 17mpg. I have found my carputer is consistently +1mpg over actual. I love my CourseMS mount, but they don't make one for your generation

excessively dirty air filter, dirty maf, sticky throttle body, worn spark plugs, fuel quality, dirty injectors, failing O2 sensors, knock sensors, and cats (or any exhaust restriction) can affect gas mileage