silverton

They do! The big differences are inside the cabin.

I'm certain I have a NIB AA012 at work that I can sell you, hopefully I remember to do that on monday

I've only been in the subaru game for 12 and share the same sentiments

Many questions can be answered by just....RTFM.

Do you have a physical copy of your vehicles owners manual? If you don't you can easily find one online in pdf form by searching for your year make model and appending 'owners manual' to the end. Inside of the owners manual is detailed information about your vehicle and how to do....the things.

Every car out there has that little symbol next to the coolant gauge to let you know what the gauge is for. Your other vehicles may not have been as bright of an instrument cluster maybe? That generation has the coolest cluster for any legacy. Per wikipedia:

I probably have one at work, have you done any research for the part number you need? parts.subaru.com was not helpful, car is too old. Using opposedforces they show two possible brackets, there is what looks to be the newer style bracket, and this one which appears to be the older style, can you confirm? https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Engine-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-Bracket-CP-TensionerTiming-Belt-Tensioner/49224960/13086AA012.html

I didn't even think that could have possibly been the inquiry.

the bulb....that powers the light? are you high? am I high? Most likely this. but do check your manual for the proper procedure, this one is close but not quite it.

The only warning light I'm seeing illuminated in that photo is the JDM style emergency brake indicator, US cars actually say "brake" cause we're dumb.

I did look yesterday and our laptop shows TCM updates for the 2005 legacy, but the update specifies shift shock from 4->3 and 3->2, not what you're describing. I wish my third gen had a manual mode so I could see if mine would shift normally like you experience, it would also help with diagnosis cause I'd start throwing parts at it, the girlfriend never complains about the way it drives so I'm sure it's being run in to the ground

according to the sylvania bulb replacement guide it's just a bog standard 194.

You did link a 110V welder that might be good enough for exhaust work on a good day, but reading through the 1 and 2 star reviews, it may not even weld at all. $100 for a welder that may not work, hours of labor laying on your back in your driveway welding rusted shit. And after all that time spent doing that it may not even be worth it and you're still shelling out $600 for a new subframe. weld rusted subframe, high risk and ONLY high reward if it takes, very low reward if not buy new subframe, low risk high reward guaranteed.

If you can't find it separately on rockauto, that's probably true. You'll want to replace that backing plate too

That's either a bad battery or a bad connection somewhere, albeit loose or corroded.

My 2001 Legacy's 4EAT is exactly the same way. if it's full throttle it holds at the limiter for a moment before shifting abruptly and lurches, but if I'm just a touch off full throttle it shifts fast and sporty. I did spend $3000 on a rebuild but that was several years ago and I can't remember what all was replaced, other than the guy said it's the worst condition one he's ever seen. Kinda makes a fella wonder if it's the throttle sensor, the tcm and ecm both receive a signal from it. PITA that there can't just be a trouble code to point us to exactly what it is.

As I said, there are no TSB's for reprogram file availability so there may not be one for you. it could be the solenoid. Here are the tech notes from the transgo website. Before installation, perform a thorough road test and scan the system for codes before starting. It is important to address any engine or transmission performance problems BEFORE attempting the installation of this product. If the car has been driven hard for very long with added horse power the friction materials may already be damaged, overhauling will be required. This product requires a good working transmission before installation. Use extreme care in handling this valve-body assembly as the solenoids are fragile and at this time can not be ordered separately. Avoid applying pressure to the valve body with the solenoids contacting the bench. If you accidentally damage a solenoid the only current solution is to purchase a new valve-body if you do a search for 'subaru 5eat hard shift' there's a ridiculous number of people with this 'issue'. I skimmed through a few, two people had H6's though, one 2008 and one 2012 and they both said a tcm update was available and that corrected their issue. This person said their car did have a TCM update available and as it's the same year, you likely do as well if it hasn't already been done. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2005-xt-5eat-transmission-woes.515744/

If you live in the US, you are pretty boned for tuning out any emissions related components.

I have an SSM 2 even! Any dealership will still be able to communicate with your car and update it if available, though this is quite the grey area with a modified car, I have been meaning to look if OPs MY has ecm/tcm updates on the laptop but I keep forgetting, I did look for reprogram file availability in the TSB's but nothing is mentioned. The latest SSM4 also includes a software version of SSM3 and will communicate with vehicles 2005 and newer. I tried a 2004 forester yesterday and the laptop SSM3 couldn't communicate, had to pull out the green brick (hardware ssm3). I worked at THE dealer you want to take your car to if you live in and around the Seattle area. When attempting the ECM update on my NA-T impreza, asked the shop foreman if I should "take it to walkers and see if any one there knew how" and his reply was essentially "they will get in your car, see your gauges, look under the hood, and give the key back to the service advisor without even starting it"

I still don't see where anyone was inherently rude; facts from knowledgeable randoms on a public forum that is accessed for free is not rude. If I told you you were a fucking idiot for even having a subaru and attempting to modify it at all, that's rude. You need a good baseline car to modify it safely. You did not have a good baseline car to modify, and we're just telling you that. rereading your original post I'm kind of weirded out why at 120k your shop would recommend a rebuild. between 90-120k it should be getting one of its first fluid flushes if following the "it came with some from the factory why should I change it" maintenance schedule. My first gen impreza's 4eat, afaik, was still original when I sold it at 260k and it shifted perfectly. My third gen legacy's 4eat didn't fail until 220k with unknown service history, all gears still worked, just sometimes reverse loaded up but the car didn't move like the parking brake was on. The rebuild did not fix the legacy's delayed shifts, so I don't see a rebuild fixing yours either. It all comes down to what the TCM is seeing for data/load values and if the incoming data/load is incorrect, it will shift incorrect.

transmission and/or rear differential mounts.

I haven't heard the 2-8 one before. 9 and 3 will find play in the ball joint, tie rod end(s), and control arm bushings, from there it's easy to visually inspect each component individually while someone plays with it.

Fel Pro products belong in the garbage. Glad your car is running again though.

What has been said isn't rude, it's a fact. If you think that's rude well... tough. Since the original issue is still present, every thing you've done in between is a bandaid. HolUp, your shop reverted your modified vehicle back to its original mapping AND told you to worry about errant shifting "later"?? I'd find a new shop.

Yeah you probably should have gotten that sorted while the car was still under warranty my guy. Maybe revert to pre-stage 2 status and see if your transmission still shifts funny. If it doesn't then whatever tune you have isn't mapped correctly as the TCM is obviously seeing load values that aren't accurate.