silverton

Even if Kentucky may not care, that's an individual state in a sea of many that are regulated by the EPA. You'll be hard pressed to find a tuner that can rid you of emissions related codes.

I had meant to say that your battery tester is highly optimistic. That was not a good battery in my eyes. while the voltage was okay, the CCA was too low. As it was already said, the battery group is exterior size and post configuration. As long as you get one with a minimum of 550cca, you should be okay. stay away from super starts; they super suck.

I use a mechanics stethoscope if it's not obvious. while the wheel is spinning 35-40mph there should be silence while touching the probe to any of the 4 wheel bearing bolts, also the same test can be performed with your hand on a coil of the spring. you should be able to feel no vibration of any kind; if the bearing is good of course.

wheel bearings can feel tight while still making noise

I wanted a muffler, just a muffler, installed on my 2001. Dude turned white when I mentioned it didn't have a catalyst, and of course that muffler is still in the box

I use parts.subaru.com

What are we working on? Cause this diagram is not the correct one for a 2014 2.5i

That whole post sounds like an opinion piece. full auto is just that, full auto; the car is in full control. auto; you set the temp and the location, it handles fan speed. manual is... well.... manual. you can do whatever the heck you want, so long as you're within the confines of the system. that being AC is default on in defrost modes and can not be turned off, also believe fresh air is forced, you can not recirc while in either defrost modes... kinda defeats the purpose so it's nice they lock that out for the stupid people. my 2001 with the levers has the same basic operating procedure as my 2017 with buttons, even so far as forcing fresh/AC in either defrost mode.

quick test is to swap the AC relay with the one right next to it, which iirc is a fan relay, i'd pick the main fan vs sub fan as the sub fan should still engage with the AC button on whether the compressor is running or not. AC defaults to on in either of the windshield defrost modes, and can be turned off on face/feet. the A/C can be turned on and off no matter what temperature is selected when in face/feet mode.

the 251 is an overall better engine than the 222, and it's actually the 25D that earned subaru the "head gaskets will fail" stereotype. the 22 is a good motor and is nice and quiet thanks to the hydraulic lifters. I agree with infosec, you should do head gaskets on your engine, unless you know for certain you have bearing and piston rings issues.

your plugs are due every 60k. I did plugs on a car recently with a random misfire, I think they had gone 80..90k though, three of the plugs were well worn with obvious blow by. the tech who did the plugs had forgotten to do number 4 though.... the gap was .077! Anyway, what I'm tryna get at is, spark plugs would be a good place to start here, I wouldn't bother with the coil packs just yet.

I think maybe because they're both low oil lights, one is for level, the other for pressure. I know you said the battery is dead but, curious for an update on consumption after pcv valve replacement.

I'm pretty confident that's the fitting for the brake booster hose

the parking brake 'ecm' is the actuator. a stored code is a current fault and lights your dashboard up. history codes are found with a scan, but not currently an issue. when were your spark plugs replaced last? or even a major service?

a failed sensor, whether clean or dirty, is still a failed sensor. do you have a photo of the unattached wire?

7500 miles is too long of an OCI buddy, switch that up to 3000-4000! hopefully the pcv valve takes care of your oil consumption, from what you have mentioned about it, it does sound failed. Here's what our shops synthetic 5w30 looks like after 1000 miles. AFAIK black oil is holding contaminants or has been heat cycled excessively. Have you sent a used oil sample to blackstone for an analysis? I'd like to see what they've said about it! Here is what my thid gens oil looks like after 1,000 miles on whatever is delivered to our shop, it's either a semi or full synthetic 5w30. Here's my 3.6R, on ~11 degree incline... bone DRY buddy...truly showing the importance you need to be on a flat surface, i like gas stations if you don't have access to a shop. I was a little bored before needing to leave for work and needed to check my third gens oil anyway... the girlfriend drives it and she's known to drive things straight in to the ground.

gdamn that is BLACK

In the first picture of the engine, you can see the block stamp. FB25

maybe 2. when I got my third gen it was a bit gutless and sounded off, did a compression test and one side was 15-20psi lower than the other so I built a new motor for it assuming it needed a rebuild. well... when I pulled the motor and was swapping the timing covers, sure enough... off one whole tooth.

Are you positive the timing was done correctly? Take the covers off and double check.

https://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_2016_Forester-25L-CVT-Base-Premium/_54102_6030226/TIMING-BELT-COVER/S13-022-01.html

If all he did was reseal the oil pump, the heads didn't need to come off. did you fix the oil leak with the engine installed in the car, or did you remove the engine? a jdm 96.... I wonder what kind of live data you can get from that... were those obd2 yet?

flat cat? You mean the resonator on the center exhaust section between the downpipe and muffler assemblies? That downpipe is certainly an exhaust shop hack job. Are there visual inspections in your state?

There is a service bulletin (WVM-23R) for your MY, regarding catalyst efficiency. It's an ECM update! Unfortunately if you're already producing a 420 code, you likely need to replace the catalyst along with the ECM update, if not already applied, to keep your new catalyst from failing. I recently had a car that had a 420 code go away by replacing the spark plugs, BUT that car was also presenting fuel trims indicative of that, while your fuel trims seem fine. That -100 is data that your meter can't interpret, the subaru diagnostic protocol is a modified basic protocol so it ends up with little errors like that on non-subaru scanners. Torque would do the same thing with my ELM327. Diag for P0420 is a bunch of wiring resistance/voltage checks, only part replacements mentioned are the catalyst itself, and the rear O2 sensor. alldata's identifix service show the coil pack and spark plugs as potential fixes as well, but I think if it were either of those we'd see that in your fuel trims. Apparently #4 was too hard for someone to change, three of these have 60k on them.... The gap on the bad one was .077

the CVT fluid being lifetime is bullshit. I think what they mean by "lifetime" is, we want you to buy a new car when it fails. If you read the fine print in the service manual it states, under severe conditions, the CVT fluid should be replaced every 25,000 miles. At about 60,400 I sent a CVT sample to blackstone and they said the fluid is likely good for 70,000 miles, I posted their report in my 'build' thread. I was able to get 3 complete drain and fills out of a five gallon bucket, might be a fourth but I don't want to chance being short on fluid and I was happy with the fluid condition while performing the fill procedure. the independent I work at has an SSM2, 3 (big green brick), and 4 on a laptop with a denso dsti interface, no idea how they were acquired but we got em! the SSM2 is archaic looking that being said, our ssm4 is outdated from 2018... i've asked several times to get an update and it hasn't happened yet, thankfully we can still put the 19+ in to brake maintenance mode. We do at least one valve body, torque converter, or whole cvt replacement weekly. Severe is categorized as, repeatedly driving short distances, bumpy roads, dusty conditions, extreme cold weather, wherever they salt or other corrosive used on roads, coastal areas, and high humidity or mountainous area. My commute is 2 miles, that's repeatedly driving a short distance. the roads are fucked around here and everywhere, so that's the bumpy roads. dust, cold weather, salt.... dont get much of that here, I imagine extremely cold weather is subzero, but I am in a coastal and mountainous area.