silverton

The hoses are bent like that so they go in the holder of the radiator/fan assembly. bulk hose wont be able to follow the same route without kinking, but you could probably still get away with it. I'd only bother buying new clamps if yours are rusty.

Proper way to check ATF level is to start with the vehicle at operating temperature. Park on a level surface and go through every gear, pausing for a moment in each one before returning to park. Now check the fluid level. If you're at cold full when the car is cold cold cold, your fluid level is probably fine. When you replace the lines, depending on how fast you are, an ounce or two might drip out

my third gen is a 2001 Legacy GT with a 4EAT. Between 200-220k it had very soft shifts going forward and then it lost reverse, it's at 232 now. My 2001 Impreza with the 4EAT never had problems, even after putting 15 pounds of boost in front of it for ~40k miles. My 2017 3.6R is a few hundred miles short of 60,000. It did come with a service history and the 30k service was performed on time. Looking through the maintenance table it never calls for CVT fluid replacement, only inspection on the 60k intervals, but I think most people do it around 100k. Mine has a seep from the shift selector seal, any leaks/seeps will cause the fluid to get dirty so I'll be replacing that seal and putting new fluid in at some point in the near future.

This. The battery holder and clamps have torque specs, but who does that??? For the curious, the battery holder nuts on my '17 are 7.5nm or 5.5ft-lbs. And the clamps are 6nm or 4.4ft-lb. Over tightening the holder nuts cracks the battery case or pops the vents open, over tightening the clamps breaks the post seal.

I enjoy the CVT in my '17 3.6. I have owned two 4EAT powered Subaru's, I still own my third gen legacy, the other was a first gen 2.5RS. I drove the third gen recently and i hated the fact that it was noticeably shifting, which was rebuilt about 10,000 miles ago. my '17 just glides down the road buttery smooth and I like it! I will note that it had a shudder when I first took possession of the car but it has learned through that and doesn't happen any more. Change the oil every 3750 miles, and do the 30/60k major services on time and the car will last you a very long time.

engines need air, fuel, spark, and exhaust flow. if you have no check engine light i'd be verifying the engine air filter isn't packed with debris, replace the fuel filter, replace the spark plugs and if those things dont do it, start taking sections of the exhaust off til it's better.

Why did you reset your ecu?

knock sensor issues pop the CEL immediately so it sounds like you fixed it! good job buddy! (torque specs in order of installation from alldata, install is always reverse of removal) 65nm(48ftlb) for the four 14's on the wheel bearing itself 66nm(49ftlb) for the caliper bracket bolts 33nm(25ftlb) for brake bracket hose 7.5nm(5.5..6ftlb) for wheel speed sensor 240nm(177ftlb) for the axle nut 120nm(89ftlb) for the wheel nuts. When I do it I only take off the caliper bracket after the wheel is off and tuck the caliper assembly up and away. I have seen the wheel speed sensor get broken multiple times by my cohorts, I have yet to so no idea what they're doing wrong, but it's better to be safe than sorry if you're doing it yourself.

might be your DRL module. For what it's worth, after I put LED's in the highbeams of my third gen, the high beam indicator is dimly lit when I have lows/fogs on, isn't lit at all with the lows on fogs off, and is bright with highs on like normal.

I believe that is a filter, since it feeds your MAP sensor. https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_2007_Legacy-25L-TURBO-5MT-4WD-GT-Limited-Sedan/Vacuum-Line/49231576/22310AC270.html

parts.subaru.com is a godsend.

Can confirm, they do not.

I spent coin on my 2001's rebuilt. Sourcing a different block and heads to 'drag and drop'. Yeah, the low compression I had found was caused by whoever did the timing belt got the right side cam one tooth retarded.

I paid $3000+some change out the door to get the 4EAT rebuilt in my 2001 a few years ago, he gave a 12 month 12,000 mile warranty on it. "if it makes it past that, it's good" he said. LOL.

I have found the full auto favors floor in my sixth gen, which likely keeps the car dry. In my third gen I generally left it on defrost/floor, or just floor if i didn't want the AC compressor to run.

If you let the wheel bearing get loose enough it can damage the speed sensor. And also... your wheel can fall off.

It's hit or miss on your wheel bearings being easy or not, some of them fall out, others take a lot of hammer. But it is as simple as unbolting, pulling it out, and bolting a new one in. You will need a slide hammer.

What you're labeling as a single wire, is a protector sheath covering the two wires. Unfortunately subaru doesn't put the sheath all the way down the harness which leaves the tasty wires exposed near the sensor. Cut back some of that sheath and you'll see both wires, just use caution so you don't lose any more of your knock sensor wires coming from the main harness. The iWire plugs are great! Highly recommend.

Regardless of what the security light is doing in the dashboard, you need to connect a scan tool to the vehicle, to know what's wrong.

No inconvenience from you friend, just trying to steer you towards the correct repair! I hope you get the car sorted out quickly and accurately. After owning/driving my six cylinder I don't know why subaru put anything else in their cars.

that is the immobilizer keeping the vehicle from starting. key mismatch or some other fault.

I will hold your hand, here you go! This is the map sensor location on the EZ. Here you can see the backside of the solenoid. Here is a picture of the location of the solenoid, it is underneath the manifold. I hope this helps.

Oh my god, my guy, no. no. NO. In the video, the sensor that is connected to the round filter on the side facing the front of the vehicle is the MAP sensor. the purge solenoid is UNDER the manifold hiding under the 3 and 5 runners. If you had joined in on the other thread where I posted the intake manifold diagram you would know this. I hate to sound like an ass, but jesus christ.

16102AA420

If you have smoke from the engine bay, something is actively leaking on to the exhaust. could be oil could be coolant, from the looks of that reservoir you may need a head gasket service.