RavenII

Perfect, ordering all 4 now... Thanks man

Ok, I'm looking to buy and replace all...3? Of them, or is it 4? The parts diagram only shows 3 but I'm reading there's actually 4. Is it that there's a right and left upper (intake) and the exhaust ones are the same number for both?

That the same thing as an OCV?

Hello, All I've got a '10 3.6r Limited with 170k on the clock and I've noticed a few things that I'm trying to pinpoint the cause of... When cold, lately I notice that the RPMs are fairly erratic. They jump up (as expected), but then don't stay stable, there're drops in the RPM almost as if though someone is revving the engine at like 1 second intervals. It normalizes after about 30 seconds, with the occasional spurt here and there until it's warm. The next issue, which I think might be related, is that when coasting/cruising along at around 40mph, the car feels like it's jerking. The RPM visibly dips, then it throws out the 246 bank misfire code. No other codes, just that. I've changed the coils and plugs less than 10k miles ago. OH...also, the economy gauge fluctuates. The only other thing that is a possibly related symptom...when warm, if I tap the gas (while in park), the RPM goes up as expected, but then dips low (450-500ish) then goes back to "normal". Keywords for those who search in the future: Stutter, stuttering, sporadic, stall, stalling

Interesting, now that's some perspective, I guess 12.5 doesn't seem so bad now... Maybe I'll go check it out...

My biggest issue is that it takes for EVER to find a nice any 3.6 in my area...hell when I bought my 2010 3.6 in 2016, I looked for almost 8 months before finally finding it, and I didn't even like the color haha. Thank you all for the input...Beamercub, in the future maybe elaborate on *why*, what maybe a big deal or issue for you, might be negligible for someone else. Like the dated interior comment, for me it's not an issue as I have a full sound setup along with an iPad mounted in my dash, but your input can be valuable. The car had Arkansas plates, but the seller was in WI, so that was kinda a red flag for me...'10 that I bought was from a private party, who was a psychologist and took VERY good care of the car. The car that intiated this post had front end damage reported, and of course the guy said that it was minor....but a 2015 with 95k for 12.5k.....that's a little hard to justify I think....unless I'm wrong. Thanks again everyone!

Hello all, As the title states, I'm looking at a fairly clean 3.6r Limited with ~95k on the clock...aside from the usual things to check, what should I know about the CVT on this car? I'm not a fan of CVT to begin with, but I like the Legacy so much that I'm going to overlook it...any way of testing, things/sounds to look out for? Should I avoid it all together? Thanks in advance!

Funny, I was about to ask if anyone knew a shop north of Chicago...looking for someone more good than cheap. I'm looking to get my oil pan and timing cover gasket changed. The pan is russssted. I mean, to the point where I'm afraid of poking too hard....the oil pan. Or...maybe I should just swap the engine, it's got 149 on the clock... Anyone know of a reasonably priced, but good shop?

Can it be done in place? or do I have to pull the motor?...I wouldn't mind doing it, it just seems like it would be a pain....

My baby is leaking oil from the timing cover...and I would like to get it repaired...one guy told me it'll cost 5 to 7......THOUSAND dollars. After laughing, I told him I'd rather buy an engine lift and used motor, and spend the other 3-5 grand on Hookers and Blow (kidding, I don't do blow)... Anyone know of a reasonable shop to take it to?

Haha, at least you guys get to tow something, I've never even plugged anything into the receiver... I wonder if I still have a pair of springs from my Caprice...now THOSE were springs.

Gotcha, that makes sense, pop out, pop in...bada bing, bada boom... I planned on using the 13/14 OEM springs from the dealer. This whole suspension endeavor started because I was bottoming out on my trailer hitch, now I'm thinking of a straight up performance suspension... I still don't understand how people lower this car without bottoming out....but, I'm sure some more reading will help me find the answer. I f'ing LOVE this forum.

Wait, can't I drop the Koni inserts in my current front housings?...add stock springs and BAM!... Nevermind, I found my answer...

Aha, I see, that's going to be a good option for the future (the Koni + KYB housings). I had emailed KYB after posting my question here and got this reply... In fact, the part numbers for the rear differ from 2010-12 (PN: 340026) and the 2013/14 (P/N: 340043). It's a shame they don't make them for the 13/14 under the actual KYB Brand, they're substantially less expensive than the dealer cost, but c'est la vie. I wonder how sachs would work out, had'em on my 5 series a while ago...

Got it, when doing the Koni swap, did you lose like a half inch or is that only if you use the WRX housings? I'm not doing the Koni swap, but was just curious. I'm just hoping that if I do get these, they're not the same marshmallowy spec that the 10-12 have, I hope they're as stiff (or slightly stiffer) than the 13/14 Dealer ones...being that they're made by the same people. Haha, thanks man.