silverton

That post reads like ChatGPT or similar to me and that got me curious about those websites that check.... you be the judge 99% through and through

I think it's your tires. $160 for a set is uh.... yikes. I pay that for one of my continentals.

I too prefer the interior of the 2018. It definitely feels more 'up to date' than my 2017. That's another thing I would have liked is the automatic locking/unlocking that starts in '18. I hate the silly little things they do year after year to get people to buy the new one.

They probably plug and play but I can not confirm. What I want is the 2018 interior door handle that unlocks when you pull the handle... My girlfriend gets unreasonably mad at my 2017 when she wants out and it's locked.

This is what you need right? No idea what to price it at since it's unobtanium the one site I found with a price was $150 list with it 'on sale' for $100. So if this is what you need, how's $75 shipped sound? PM me and I'll send you my paypal information.

My best guess is that is the third brake light connector in an optional spoiler. Connector R66 in the C5 quad.

P codes 301 and 306 are cylinder 1 and 6 misfires and likely unrelated to the C codes. P0700 means there is a fault in the transmission and it has requested the check engine light to illuminate. C0047 CAN COMMUNICATION C0051 VALVE RELAY C0071 is a strange one... four different things branch from its listing, but all of them are related to the steering angle sensor All three of those C codes share Fuse No.33 and SBF 6 so I'd start there. SBF6 is in the fuse box under the hood, Fuse No.33 is in the fuse box inside the cabin.

I forgot. I'll set a reminder in my phone, sorry bud!

They do! The big differences are inside the cabin.

I'm certain I have a NIB AA012 at work that I can sell you, hopefully I remember to do that on monday

I've only been in the subaru game for 12 and share the same sentiments

Many questions can be answered by just....RTFM.

Do you have a physical copy of your vehicles owners manual? If you don't you can easily find one online in pdf form by searching for your year make model and appending 'owners manual' to the end. Inside of the owners manual is detailed information about your vehicle and how to do....the things.

Every car out there has that little symbol next to the coolant gauge to let you know what the gauge is for. Your other vehicles may not have been as bright of an instrument cluster maybe? That generation has the coolest cluster for any legacy. Per wikipedia:

I probably have one at work, have you done any research for the part number you need? parts.subaru.com was not helpful, car is too old. Using opposedforces they show two possible brackets, there is what looks to be the newer style bracket, and this one which appears to be the older style, can you confirm? https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru__/Engine-Timing-Belt-Tensioner-Bracket-CP-TensionerTiming-Belt-Tensioner/49224960/13086AA012.html

I didn't even think that could have possibly been the inquiry.

the bulb....that powers the light? are you high? am I high? Most likely this. but do check your manual for the proper procedure, this one is close but not quite it.

The only warning light I'm seeing illuminated in that photo is the JDM style emergency brake indicator, US cars actually say "brake" cause we're dumb.

I did look yesterday and our laptop shows TCM updates for the 2005 legacy, but the update specifies shift shock from 4->3 and 3->2, not what you're describing. I wish my third gen had a manual mode so I could see if mine would shift normally like you experience, it would also help with diagnosis cause I'd start throwing parts at it, the girlfriend never complains about the way it drives so I'm sure it's being run in to the ground

according to the sylvania bulb replacement guide it's just a bog standard 194.

You did link a 110V welder that might be good enough for exhaust work on a good day, but reading through the 1 and 2 star reviews, it may not even weld at all. $100 for a welder that may not work, hours of labor laying on your back in your driveway welding rusted shit. And after all that time spent doing that it may not even be worth it and you're still shelling out $600 for a new subframe. weld rusted subframe, high risk and ONLY high reward if it takes, very low reward if not buy new subframe, low risk high reward guaranteed.

If you can't find it separately on rockauto, that's probably true. You'll want to replace that backing plate too

That's either a bad battery or a bad connection somewhere, albeit loose or corroded.

My 2001 Legacy's 4EAT is exactly the same way. if it's full throttle it holds at the limiter for a moment before shifting abruptly and lurches, but if I'm just a touch off full throttle it shifts fast and sporty. I did spend $3000 on a rebuild but that was several years ago and I can't remember what all was replaced, other than the guy said it's the worst condition one he's ever seen. Kinda makes a fella wonder if it's the throttle sensor, the tcm and ecm both receive a signal from it. PITA that there can't just be a trouble code to point us to exactly what it is.

As I said, there are no TSB's for reprogram file availability so there may not be one for you. it could be the solenoid. Here are the tech notes from the transgo website. Before installation, perform a thorough road test and scan the system for codes before starting. It is important to address any engine or transmission performance problems BEFORE attempting the installation of this product. If the car has been driven hard for very long with added horse power the friction materials may already be damaged, overhauling will be required. This product requires a good working transmission before installation. Use extreme care in handling this valve-body assembly as the solenoids are fragile and at this time can not be ordered separately. Avoid applying pressure to the valve body with the solenoids contacting the bench. If you accidentally damage a solenoid the only current solution is to purchase a new valve-body if you do a search for 'subaru 5eat hard shift' there's a ridiculous number of people with this 'issue'. I skimmed through a few, two people had H6's though, one 2008 and one 2012 and they both said a tcm update was available and that corrected their issue. This person said their car did have a TCM update available and as it's the same year, you likely do as well if it hasn't already been done. https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/2005-xt-5eat-transmission-woes.515744/