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lol I've got Avid XO trail 4 pistons calipers on my Nomad. Always look at my bike having 4 pistons and wonder why I haven't gotten a set of 4 pistons for my car yet :iam:

 

I literally think the same thing to myself all the time... :lol:

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Everyone we've showed the new 11s stuff too (particularly Shimano) has just fallen in love. I thing the 2x11 is a little bit crazy unless you have a LOT of elevation change going on, but I can really appreciate that it exists. It would be great for touring. Get an M8000 1x11 group, you won't regret it a bit. (make sure you have a 10s freehub body though)

 

How would I know if it's 10s compatible? Have a set of beater wheels from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse built with some XT guns circa 6-7 years ago and a set of Hope Hoops with Pro2 non-Evos circa 5-6 years ago. I have a feeling I'm SOL unless I want to build some.

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How would I know if it's 10s compatible? Have a set of beater wheels from Bicycle Wheel Warehouse built with some XT guns circa 6-7 years ago and a set of Hope Hoops with Pro2 non-Evos circa 5-6 years ago. I have a feeling I'm SOL unless I want to build some.

 

There are two easy ways and some harder ways to tell. The first easy way of finding out would be removing your cassette to see if there is a spacer behind it. 9sp cassette + spacer = 10s freehub body. The next easy way would be to install a 10sp/11sp cassette and make sure that 1) you can tighten the lockring down & 2) the lockring does not sit outboard of the axle endcap(if it does extend outward, that means it would hit the frame). Harder way wold be removing the cassette and measuring the freehub body to see if it's long enough(I surprisingly don't know that measurement...)

 

I'm pretty sure it'll be compatible though. Just make sure the last gear has good enough purchase on the freehub body, as the ProII uses aluminum for that, and it strips easy. There's also dishing to worry about because the 11s stuff uses standard 10sp hubshells and dishes 1st gear over the hub flange, meaning closer to the spokes, but with a standard(aka non-fat/plus) wheel build it won't matter.

 

Wait, what??? I need to google this..

 

Yep! Fox bought them out, and it's up in the air as far as what they're going to do with Marzocci. From the looks of it... they are staying around for now, I hope.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Yeah that and almost any other IFHT video!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

^Agreed!

 

I did a thing today... :)

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/c1f30bcdbafb0721a5c4879776690540.jpg

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160402/17f62c104e13d50bd23dfc15cb439ac5.jpg

 

By far the most ridiculously powerful brake I've ever ridden. It's kinda scary on flat land.

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Swapped my Hope Hoops with Evo2 hubs back onto my bike. Need to hit up my friend that works at Kenda here in Ohio to see if he can get me some Small Block 8s cheeeeeep.

 

Also grabbed a couple pictures of my hub... Wrench, can you tell if this is a 10s compatible hub from these? Sram 9s cassette on there now.

 

I love these Hope hubs... bees... so many bees. They're no i9 or Kings but still. :cool:

20160513_181140.thumb.jpg.3bf2291e2245b6bc80afe0e04adfb19d.jpg

20160513_180856.thumb.jpg.81a577d0ab1d76a59c4a611e891d2fe4.jpg

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Swapped my Hope Hoops with Evo2 hubs back onto my bike. Need to hit up my friend that works at Kenda here in Ohio to see if he can get me some Small Block 8s cheeeeeep.

 

 

 

Also grabbed a couple pictures of my hub... Wrench, can you tell if this is a 10s compatible hub from these? Sram 9s cassette on there now.

 

 

 

I love these Hope hubs... bees... so many bees. They're no i9 or Kings but still. :cool:

 

 

 

From the looks of it, 9th gear looks like it's hanging a few millimeters off the edge of the hubshell. With a 10 speed cassette you'll most likely either not be able to thread the lockring down, or you'll have issues with 10th slipping since it'll have barely any purchase on the hubshell. That's all assuming there's no spacers behind 1st gear to move the cassette out, though. If there's any spacers behind the cassette you'll probably be just fine for 10 speed! The Pro2 Evos were weird because that's when Hope started making both 9s and 10s shells... Making things complicated. Easiest way would just to call/email hope and ask them how long the hubshell should be if it was 10 speed and then measure!

 

And yes, they definitely make an amazing noise. :)

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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Yeah... after posting, I realized I also have access to google... imagine that.

 

I also thought the same thing about the 9th cog hanging off the end and feared what would happen if a 10th was perched on the end like that. The only spacer I have is between the 1-3 bunch and the 4-7 bunch, maybe 2mm thick. From what I can tell, it's required to have the proper spacing between the gear sets, otherwise they would be close to touching and make shifting difficult or impossible.

 

From what I found on google, there are 9s and 10s free hub bodies and I'm thinking I've got a 9s. That 9th cog sits down within the 8th and the 8th kind of sits within the 7th so they all have quite a bit of contact/spline area on the body so I'm not worried about them digging in as much as the 4-7 group. Supposedly these hubs are easy to work on so swapping over to a 10s for 10/11 compatibility and to get rid of the aluminum (I think they have steel ones?) shouldn't be too bad.

 

And yes, that cassette is filthy but it's this wax-based lube I use because I always ride in the dry. Gets dirty and just flakes off. Hasn't let me down and I've had this chain, cassette, and chain ring for many, many miles. The chain whip I have for removing the cassette nut still slots in and holds firm with the teeth so I know they aren't worn because the chain isn't stretched.

Edited by baconbits
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  • 1 month later...

Got my bike a little dirty this morning riding at Sun Peaks for the weekend. Got one more day tomorrow and it doesn't look like it's supposed to rain which should be sweet.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160704/a599e960293d06893fb24f0fbaead7a0.jpg

2005 Vader Wagon

Material Tests on Ringland Failure Piston

I should have held off and purchased a wagon instead of the spec.B
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Got my bike a little dirty this morning riding at Sun Peaks for the weekend. Got one more day tomorrow and it doesn't look like it's supposed to rain which should be sweet.

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160704/a599e960293d06893fb24f0fbaead7a0.jpg

 

 

 

I'm jelly, you have a big boy bike that you get to take on big boy trails! All I have is glorified dirt paths... :lol:

 

I did a bad thing the other day... I cracked a couple chainring bolts on my Stumpjumper. They popped when I was racing a few friends up a rather large climb. I originally thought they were spokes, but unfortunately not. Sad part is they're super proprietary milled Ti with a coarse threading... Only sold by SRAM. yay. I guess it's back to my Surly for now :(

 

(Totally smashed my PR for that climb though!)

 

http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160705/73ca35ad38754705704ce7335cb37454.jpg

 

 

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

MTBwrench's Stage 3 5EAT #racewagon 266awhp/255awtq @17.5psi, Tuned By Graham of Boosted Performance

 

Everyone knows what I taste like.
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I didn't break anything on mine today... merely fixed something.

 

After about 2-3 miles of city riding at a good clip (I really should just get a road bike), I would get a rhythmic squeak or squeal... thought it was the front hub or brake but no dice. I was getting pissed thinking I had fixed it only to find a third of the way through my next ride that I had to suffer through it for another 6 miles. Turns out it was my inner pad on my rear disc brake had come unclipped from the piston. How, don't ask me. Reclipped it, pushed the pistons back in to realign the caliper and all is happy.

 

I should get some lower rolling resistance tires but F me, Small Block 8s cost a fortune. Any recommendations for a 26er riding city streets and hard pack single track?

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I usually throw my Continental Race King's on when riding streets or hard pack around indy. The profile of the tread is rounded like a road tire that gives even contact around corners on pavement

 

I inflate higher for the streets and I can drop em a bit when I get to the trails. The only downside is the edges are not very aggressive for softer dirt and I tend to take sharp corners gently as I've dropped it a few times losing traction.

 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001H7NW32/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awd_d_Q2gFxbXY2QMQ5

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