Silinc3r's 05 GT SWP

[Silinc3r]

As per my tuners advice he has told me to ditch the DW65c and I'll be dropping in an AEM 320 pump along with the upgraded pump wiring. My understanding is it really isn't necessary with my low hp/tq but it will be a bit piece of mind and if I decide to go after E85 and higher levels down the road. The STi FPCM again won't be needed and since it is about 90 bucks I'll definitely be holding off.

 

FPCM Wiring Upgrade - Relay Staying Switched w/ Key-Off

 

Upgrading Your Fuel Pump Wiring (4th Gen)

 

Fuel pump control module

 

STi FPCM-22750AA010

 

Ok, so I have come back to this (10/16/17) and did only the upgraded wiring. I didn't want to mess with adding the relay yet. With just the addition wires I noticed a +.26v increase to the pump. So perhaps it was worth the hassle. Only took me about 5 hours but I work slow and you'd never notice it.

 

Also by the way I am have not/am not switching pumps. I think we may have jumped the gun on conclusions. Still running the 91 map with no drop in DAM

 

AccessPort=APort

Before adding wires

V@Pump-13.06

V@FPCM-13.37

V@APort-14.08

@idle OT

After adding wires

V@Pump-13.32

V@FPCM-13.36

V@Aport-14.08

@idle OT

 

And just in case since I didn't see any mention of it. You can in fact de-pin the fuel pump connector. Took me awhile to figure it out but I got it.

 

Place a flat head underneath the white portion where it meets the little rubber o-ring and yes the gray portion of the plug to leverage the white part up.

It will slide up and stop. From here you can pull the white part off or just leverage it more and it'll come off.

From here, get your small flat tip de-pinning driver and as normal unseat the lock tap and pull the pin out.

Be warned there is not much room to work in there to cut and crimp as I did instead of soldering. I chose this route because I wanted to be able to heat shrink and don't like to solder anymore.

Edited October 16, 2017 by Silinc3r

[Silinc3r]

So, I am holding off on the fuel pump for now but will probably still do the wiring. Tuner put me on SD tune as I guess my MAF was/is going out. On top of that with the extra power the clutch is starting to show signs of slipping, damn it.

 

When I tried to get the alignment the first time we found out the inboard rear lateral link bushings had broke and now just rotates. I have been hearing clunks and thought it was the coils but now I am sure it is those bushings. I went ahead and got the whiteline rear lateral adjustable kit and will swap in the Spec B part that allows toe adjusment with the whiteline kit.

 

Nothing can ever just be done as I can't leave stuff alone haha.

[Silinc3r]

So anyone know if the famous "bad gas" would give a DAM of 0.000 when on a 93 tune but went to a 91 tune and DAM has set at 1.000 since? I still don't really understand the fine knock learn and DAM. When I was on the 93 tune, DAM would kind of do what it wanted sometimes and FKL was always doing things. I thought it was normal though. Could I just really be getting bad gas all the time and the tun doesn't like it? Again, isnce i switched to the 91 tune nothing has moved.

[Silinc3r]

So finally got my rear JDM tail garnishs!!!! A guy had bought them and posted on facebook about it and I immediately told him I'd buy them right now or if he changed his mind let me know. Well his car was black and the garnish just happened to be in the JDM white, #36 or #32, whatever. So about a month or so and he posts they are for sale on FB, I was like yoooo I said I'd buy them. So I bought them and threw them on. Unfortunately the OP from Japan had them tinted and then the garnish put on and I was digging it so I was able to separate the garnish and the tint from the light. Put them on my original JDM tails and life is good!! I don't know why they made so few of these. The front garnish is still available but the rear is not.

[LatentWagen]

When I was on the 93 tune, DAM would kind of do what it wanted sometimes and FKL was always doing things. I thought it was normal though. Could I just really be getting bad gas all the time and the tun doesn't like it? Again, isnce i switched to the 91 tune nothing has moved.

 

Sounds like your tune is too aggressive, or you have a mechanical problem somewhere. Since switching to 91 alleviates the problems, it's probably the 93 tune that's the culprit. Unless you're really putting terrible gas in there. Where do you fill up?

 

You never want to see changes in DAM. Only light feedback knock (no more than -2.8) and the occasional FKL of -1.4 is within the "normal" range. Anything more es no bueno.

[Rhitter]

What size TS10s are on?

[Silinc3r]

Sounds like your tune is too aggressive, or you have a mechanical problem somewhere. Since switching to 91 alleviates the problems, it's probably the 93 tune that's the culprit. Unless you're really putting terrible gas in there. Where do you fill up?

 

You never want to see changes in DAM. Only light feedback knock (no more than -2.8) and the occasional FKL of -1.4 is within the "normal" range. Anything more es no bueno.

 

 

I only use Shell or BP. I am the weird guy that will drive the extra mile just to get to one.

 

Yea both of those have for sure been over those values. The car doesn't smoke, doesn't hesitate, vacuum is right at 20 inmg.

 

I'll be doing a pretty big overhaul here hopefully soon and I guess have to really dig deep.

[Silinc3r]

What is the chance a really worn clutch might be making the car pull timing? My thought is perhaps, a certain part the throttle is applied and the car is seeing this, air is increasing and fuel is being added. Then the clutch starts slipping and the ECU says wait a minute what is going on. Since nothing is really wrong, the car just pulls timing and doesn't reduce DAM since it isn't detonation but it still wants to be safe.That is what the feedback knock is basically right? FKL doesn't move nor does DAM. I can provide a log of course if you think that will show anything.

[Smithcraft]

I only use Shell or BP. I am the weird guy that will drive the extra mile just to get to one.

 

Yea both of those have for sure been over those values. The car doesn't smoke, doesn't hesitate, vacuum is right at 20 inmg.

 

I'll be doing a pretty big overhaul here hopefully soon and I guess have to really dig deep.

I miss BP! I'd drive the extra mile for Shell, but I'm not a fan of the +30 cents per gallon debit fee.

 

SC

[Silinc3r]

for future

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/meth-kit-water-only-161699.html

[Silinc3r]

What size TS10s are on?

 

Sorry for the late response, 18x8.5

[Silinc3r]

Going to try and update this since it's been awhile.

 

Finally installed the factory rain visors JDM visors, $144 shipped to your door

installed the STi push start P/N: ST83031ST040

Zero Sports rear strut bar, didn't even know it existed P/N:BG170225005

Zero Sports V-effector Voltage Stabilizer and V-Earthing Ground

Zero Sports Cool Action II Splinter in BLUE!!!!

Blitzen door sills

part of the STi pedal set, dead pedal is going to take sometime to make work and the gas pedal isn't supposed to work but I'll make it work.

P/N:SG317FG010

Edited September 27, 2017 by Silinc3r

[Silinc3r]

[Silinc3r]

Just completed the fuel pump wire upgrade. Go back to post 126 to see photos and test results.

[uv_blue]

Where did your blitzen sills come from? I have the same ones and I'm trying to find out more about them

[WRX USA]

Where did your blitzen sills come from? I have the same ones and I'm trying to find out more about them

 

#8 here: https://www.carthrottle.com/post/w834mxz/

[Silinc3r]

Gonna be having some pics incoming.

 

Lastest update, new 2019 STi RA block installed due to the notorious #4 cylinder giving up. Car had been smoking for quite sometime and after the TOMEI ARMS turbo swap made it worse I believe because the turbo was getting over supplied. Ended up busting the piston and messing up the driver head.

 

Had a VF52 sent out for rebuild and billet wheel upgrade. Replaced the driver head with a used one and both heads sent off to the machine shop. New AVCS cam sprockets and solenoids, new oil pan and oil pump. Finally decided to get a new radiator while I was at it and did the #4 Dom cooling mod to hopefully alleviate that issue for the future.

 

Currently working on the break in mileage now. May try and get an updated tune but I shouldn't need one as nothing really changed.

[Silinc3r]

Well, having trouble posting pictures

[SoobyDoobyDoo]

Do/did you feel any difference with the ZS grounding kit? Also been thinking about the Dom cyl 4 cooling kit can you let us know how install goes?

[mzsinko84]

I have both Cobb Accessport v3 and a 9 Drive Electronic Throttle Controller Pedal Accelerator, I bought the Cobb to help with the performance and I bought 9 Drive for better gas pedal control despite the more gas I may go through.

[Underdog]

STi push start P/N: ST83031ST040

 

Any more details on this? I figured we’d need to replace the BIU and keys to get this functionality.

[tysparks81]

Any more details on this? I figured we’d need to replace the BIU and keys to get this functionality.

 

You should be able to tap directly into the key in and ignition start wire for the push start, but I assume it would be a lot more difficult if you removed the key entirely.

[socalsleeper]

Any more details on this? I figured we’d need to replace the BIU and keys to get this functionality.

 

There might be a way to use some auxiliary module to make the body control module (or what ever the correct term for a legacy is) happy. I have seen aftermarket kits in the past pop-up, but is has been a while since I have seen one, probably since most cars come with these as standard features.

 

I doubt we can use a later model Subaru unit to make this work, although I would love to be wrong.

[Silinc3r]

sorry for the late reply.

So the push start is just that, just replaces having to turn the key. Just a nice novelty. Though, from how I installed it, even if someone had the key, they'd like never know where to find the button.

 

Someone stole my keys back last December, that was a pain. one guy at Subaru said they would have to replace the cluster for like 2500. Ended up just getting new keys cut and reprogrammed. Under $500 after all said and done.

 

 

Brake shudder has been fixed. Rear left caliper finally gave up the ghost. That is a relief.

New engine is still doing fine. Still would like to get an updated tune to run 93 again.

Still need to fix the air bags by swapping front lower seat assemblies.

Paint on hood has flacked off.

Blender door in A/C is shot so im lucky if i get directed air.

other than that, just glad to be driving it.

 

And picked up a 2015 Outback 3.6R!!1

[Silinc3r]

Some extra photos