xt2005bonbon Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 Actually, what would have caused this? Poorly tuned? Too much power? Poor quality pistons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 You actually thought for one minute that subaru pistons were quality? One good knock at full throttle could do in a subaru piston at even stage 2 power levels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xt2005bonbon Posted June 17, 2012 Share Posted June 17, 2012 You actually thought for one minute that subaru pistons were quality? One can always wish. One good knock at full throttle could do in a subaru piston at even stage 2 power levels. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted June 18, 2012 Author Share Posted June 18, 2012 If I put the car back to stock do you think it would last at all? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Not for long. Combustion will have its way with bare rings. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiskeyTango Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 If I put the car back to stock do you think it would last at all? Is this a joke Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Actually, what would have caused this? Poorly tuned? Too much power? Poor quality pistons? If I put the car back to stock do you think it would last at all? It's all in the tune. You don't want these cars on the stock tune for very long. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 He wasn't on the stock tune. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 I'm taking the car off the road asap, last thing I need is more piston breaking loose and floating through my new turbo. Time to get a beater and pull the legacy into the garage for mass open heart surgery Your looking at $5000 to do it right. More if you go with pistons. That will add to the cost of the machine work. Will you be pulling the engine yourself ? did you follow my recent thread where I did my R&R with the ej257 ? 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted June 18, 2012 I Donated Share Posted June 18, 2012 Your looking at $5000 to do it right. More if you go with pistons. That will add to the cost of the machine work. Meh. If the bearings are fine, no reason to do the shortblock unless he really wants to. For just pistons, gasket kit, timing belt kit, and ARP head studs, it was $1300. If you don't need machine work (which I didn't), you can get by with that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WhiskeyTango Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 Last I checked short-blocks were right around $1500 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Max Capacity Posted June 18, 2012 Share Posted June 18, 2012 EJ257 are about $1880 when you add in shipping or tax. I got mine from my local dealer who gives me a good discount all because a know CT08SpecB. I paid about $2120 for the ej257 and the gasket set. You can get the same discount from the vendor at the top of the vendor link above. 305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD). CHECK your oil, these cars use it. Engine Build - Click Here Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted June 19, 2012 Author Share Posted June 19, 2012 I really just want to stop dumping money into the car. I was happy with the power levels on corn and just want it to be reliable. I would be happy with just pulling the motor (yes myself) and replacing the pistons. of course after careful inspection of the cylinder walls valves and the such. I didn't get around to following your thread bmx but i want to check it out. I was even debating putting the car back to stock and getting rid of it. But i have too much of an attachment to my b it would be a heart break to see it go, of course maybe not if I fixed the bust piston and trade it in for an 08 spec b. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
13larry Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 cylinder 3 always run the hotest and I suspect you went very lean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 What's up with subies and cyl 3? Why does it run hotter than the rest? I'm having a hard tome thinking about parting with my car and replacing it. I might just take out a loan and fix it right + 6MT front LSD while the motor is out. So knowing now that pistons are a weak spot on these motors, what else should be changed to be "reliable" running close to 500 crank horse on a dd? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meier motor sports Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 ls6 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 ^^^ put it in an AWD manny tranny setup and I'm all over it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 actually, cyl 4 is the most ommonly blown piston. in the oem map subaru adds timing to cyl 2 and 4 (2.11*) because they are closer to the knock sensor thus taking the hit first before the other two cylinders, thus pulling timing for all. in 2007, they added timing in only cyl 4. in 2008 the same. in 2005, cyl 2 and 4 both had 2.11* added above 3600rpms. that means those two cyl are more prone to knock, and over a period of time, that could take a toll on them. someone said it was the way the heads are designed with the exhaust routing causing cyl 4 to run hotter- i havent confirmed that but i heard that from a couple tuners. so most tuners 0 timing compensation tables, not adding any, not pulling any. for 500hp, you'll want pistons and rods, nitrited crank, better oil pump(11mm) and oil pickup as well as a 6mt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 you are very knowledgeable bmx, a great asset to this forum. +1 well currently at 349whp and i keep hearing 28% drivetrain loss that puts me right around 450 crank horse. I really don't see myself going much bigger with this car as before i chunked that piston I was really happy with it as a moderately fast and reliable DD. I want to be able to take long trips and sit in traffic without breaking my leg with some huge choppy clutch. Say I just went with pistons... is there anything else I should take into consideration of replacement while inside the engine? valve springs? valves? pulleys (do they even really do much?)? would be nice to make it another 60-100 thousand miles without having to tear back into the engine again. I'm trying to price out an estimated repair/modification bill and look into getting a personal loan (what am i getting myself into oh boy haha) I'd obviously need a new clutch with a 6mt, would I have to replace my comp clutch flywheel as well? And its only logical to replace the timing belt and water pump on top of all that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bmx045 Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 some say stock rods are good for 400chp. if i were you i'd get aa new ej257 and throw pistons in it. better pump, pickup, timing kit, and be happy with a good dd that has capability of a dom 3.0 or higher. of course, freshening up your heads is always a good idea but i dont think valves or springs are necessary, just send them to a good shop and have the valves lapped and lash checked with buckets in there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted June 20, 2012 Author Share Posted June 20, 2012 and the comp clutch flywheel from my LGT stgII clutch package with an sti clutch? does that fly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I Donated thefultonhow Posted June 20, 2012 I Donated Share Posted June 20, 2012 You'll need a new flywheel. Interesting bit on Cyl 2 and 4 -- my blown ringland was in Cyl 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nrw Posted June 21, 2012 Share Posted June 21, 2012 Cyl 3 runs hot since the up pipe wraps around it and the turbo sits by it. Unless I've got my firing order backwards again Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mega Users seabass07 Posted June 21, 2012 Mega Users Share Posted June 21, 2012 4 is hotter than the others bcuz 4 is a hghrr number. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialB Posted June 21, 2012 Author Share Posted June 21, 2012 man twelve cylinders must run epically hot hehe Nrw you make a valid point there is a decent amount of heat there, I wonder how much of it is absorbed into the motor. Somebody give me a Joule reading! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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