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mangled a spark plug


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It could be a bad plug in itself too. A small crack that was there from the beginning and then broke off a piece when stressed.

 

If no other obvious damage to the engine I would put in a new plug and call it a day. The only thing that I would be worried about is the lost piece - where did it end up? Did it pass the turbo without causing damage?

 

If you still have the up pipe cat then it's there, but in that case I would definitely take a look since it can eat it's way through the cat and cause turbo damage.

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I changed the plug last night with one champion, supposed to be for this car... Nobody had the ngk's in stock and at least needed to put a non broken plug in. it runs fine when under lite throttle but still hesitates when I get on it. I can imagine one different plug can cause some kind of hiccup. Ordering four new ngk's today see if that does it.

 

I believe the bit of ceramic passed through without damage because theres sonething in my exhaust now that rattles around from time to time, im hoping thats it. No cat before the turbo so it mist have passed. Such a small piece probably went right through the hot side of the turbo. Still a good idea to get a scope up there too and check the impeller fins

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it will be when you perform the leakdown, you apply pressure to the chamber and then slowly turn the crankshaft until you see gauge #2 rise, keep turning it and record highest reading on gauge 2, shouldn't be more than 10-15% lower than gauge 1
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The leakdown tester i have is a single gauge for leakage percentage and a seperate gauge for pressure. Crank the pressure up and watch how much is leaking. If its more than 10-15% i know theres an issue.
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the thing is, the single gauge leakdown testers means you need to know the psi of the air supply, look at the air compressor tank and look at it's psi, then refer to your recorded highest psi in the cylinder, and measure difference
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the thing is, the single gauge leakdown testers means you need to know the psi of the air supply, look at the air compressor tank and look at it's psi, then refer to your recorded highest psi in the cylinder, and measure difference

 

Yeah we have our 'shop air' regulated to 90 psi.

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OK, updates!!

 

So I stopped at auto zone to pick up my leak down tester...which didn't turn out to be a leak down tester at all but a compression guage. Love when incompetent people work at auto part stores, I even asked him if the tool had two gauges and a regulator on it and he said yes. So, without any other options I grabbed the compression tester and headed to Subaru to pick up my plugs.

 

Get home and pull all the plugs and go about trying to test my compression. Tester turned out to be a piece of garbage all together as it did not have an O-ring where the male end connects to the spark plug hole. A shitty seal left me reading 60psi on one of the non issue cylinders. So, unhappily I put it all back together with new plugs and made sure they were gapped right.

 

Not so much voila, but it is definitely MUCH better. At first startup the idle was smooth no issue and no hiccups revving in neutral when before it was popping and backfiring like crazy. Took it down the block and it stalled at the first stop sign. From then on the idle was rough whenever i'd come to a stop and then it would come back up to normal after about 5-10 seconds.

 

After warmed up I tried getting some power down and that was non issue, car pulled strong and hard like usual, only thing I noticed was downshifting I would get a little hesitation trying to rev match.

 

Car didn't throw any codes the whole time I had it out and it didn't read any roughness in cylinder three. I did notice however that she was not hitting target boost. Where she was supposed to be touching twenty it never rose much over 17.1psi.

 

I'm beginning to get a feeling I have a vacuum leak somewhere, maybe melted a hose or something that afternoon or idk what. Working on getting a good and proper leak down tester so I can rule out any issue with the rings or valves in cylinder three.

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I had the battery out so I could get to the plugs on the drivers side, but I did not reset the ECU. Weirdly though, my tuner said if I ever disconnect the battery the car will default back to the E85 low boost tune, but when I checked it was still on 85 high boost.

 

And SOB, harbor freight was right next door to auto zone and I even walked in to see how much a new led work light would be. However I got a mechanic friend with a nice dual gauge tester I'm going to borrow that from him in the very near future.

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but it resets the realtime tune back to the reflash base on cobb. Idk what you tune with but on the access port you can change "realtime" maps on the fly but if the car loses battery power it will default back to whatever you have set as the reflash base.
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If I can't get my hands on one at least I know I can go there and buy one. harbor freight FTW! these things are popping up everywhere now. I got a 6.5hp honda knockoff motor for $99 and turned one of those schwinn OCC chopper bicycles into a 40mph death trap cycle its awesome ahaha

 

http://sphotos.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/319824_10150887363579789_2049296134_n.jpg

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Just a little side tracked. i'm going to do leak down tonight and go over the vacuum system and see if I have any leaks, would have to be from melting something Idk how else you can catch a leak while in motion unless something busted open
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a compression test is a blanket test, it measures the functional compression with the strokes of the engine, if thats ok, the compression is fine thus valves and rings are sealing properly. a leakdown is used to do that PLUS determine what exactly the problem is if the cylinder doesnt hold pressure.
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