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mangled a spark plug


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you are very knowledgeable bmx, a great asset to this forum. +1

 

well currently at 349whp and i keep hearing 28% drivetrain loss that puts me right around 450 crank horse. I really don't see myself going much bigger with this car as before i chunked that piston I was really happy with it as a moderately fast and reliable DD. I want to be able to take long trips and sit in traffic without breaking my leg with some huge choppy clutch.

 

Say I just went with pistons... is there anything else I should take into consideration of replacement while inside the engine? valve springs? valves? pulleys (do they even really do much?)? would be nice to make it another 60-100 thousand miles without having to tear back into the engine again. I'm trying to price out an estimated repair/modification bill and look into getting a personal loan (what am i getting myself into oh boy haha) I'd obviously need a new clutch with a 6mt, would I have to replace my comp clutch flywheel as well? And its only logical to replace the timing belt and water pump on top of all that.

 

I was in a somewhat similar position to you last winter. I got a new sb put in from the dealer under warranty 2 yrs ago and about 1000 miles after it popped and ringland on a accessport stg2 tune. Only reason we (tuner and I) knew it was broken was because of false knock randomly. Sometimes we would get completely clean logs and others the car would try to pull 12 degrees from the entire map. I ended up turn knock control off and driving it with the broken ringland for 15k miles. During this time I knew the motor was on its way out. Being in college I ended up doing everything to a very strict budget.

 

I ended up with a motor with stock rods, wiescos, bearings, 12mm oil pump killerb oil pickup, all new gaskets and everything that was used had 15k on it because it was from the warrantied sb. I ended up keeping my stock 100k mile heads they were cleaned and the lash checked before reassembly. Make sure that you replace the stock oil pickup with an aftermarket one like the killerb pickup.

 

Currently that motor has about 20k on it with an hta green and pump gas. Put down 400whp on a dyno dynamics and 370 on the airboy. I have the stock rods in there an I'm not particularly worried about them at this power level because I don't make a ton of torque. Only around 330 wtq on the airboy.

 

If I were you and wanted to keep the car I would get a built short block that fits your budget. I would personally stay away from h-beam rods and would buy I-beams if the budget allowed if not I would stay stock again.

 

The best course of action would be to figure out your budget then contact a reputable subaru engine builder to discuss your options(dom @mps, Micah @ 3MI, crystal imprezza) to name a few that I would pick from nasioc. The most important thing that you can do once you have decided on a motor is to get the best tune you can.

 

Good luck let me know if you have and specific questions.

 

-Aaron

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So you lost a chunk of piston and it took out the spark plug tip. Where did it go? Have you inspected your turbo for damage? I'd be worried about the turbo hot side if I had chunks of metal coming out of my engine.
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Damn I thought I had a pic but I deleted it from my photobucket......

Anyways, mine looked like that but covered in oil when I blew my motor. But I couldn't drive on it after like someone else earlier said they could. My engine started violently shaking from a rough idle, oil pressure light came on and that was all she wrote :lol:

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So you lost a chunk of piston and it took out the spark plug tip. Where did it go? Have you inspected your turbo for damage? I'd be worried about the turbo hot side if I had chunks of metal coming out of my engine.

 

The piece that had come off was very small. I still haven't looked st the hot side if the turbo but she seems to be in good working order she still makes full boost and holds. I'm rather passive the piece had passed through because after it had happened I heard a little peeve of metal rattling around in the exhaust for a few days and then it blew out.

 

So what's so bad about saving close to two grand and just building the stick block as opposed to buying a new short block? Are their concerns about cracking the block or is it just nice to know everything is fresh.

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I just got an '08 WRX engine with 20k on it that was wrecked from the rear for $2k. If you have the money build it.....why not. I didn't, so I just got what I could afford. Still running strong with 60k on it now. *knock on wood* :lol:
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  • 1 month later...

but da da da!

 

but just my f**king luck, one of the tranny studs is bent and one of the head cooling port dealys is mangled. how the hell do I remove that without it shearing off leaving the rest inside that cooling port?

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/Max00racer/2012-08-17_15-42-52_973.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/Max00racer/2012-08-17_15-42-21_93.jpg

 

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y89/Max00racer/2012-08-17_16-21-30_874.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

Very nice. I also should have my motor back in and running this weekend if all goes well. and my radiator actually comes in.

I read the whole thread and if you want a 60-100k reliable engine i would go with a moderate tune staying on the rich end not lean so you dont detonate and possibly blow your pistons apart.

the main reason from failure almost always stems from the tune being ever so slightly lean, over heating internals and causing failure. just my two cents. good luck and hope your back running this weekend.

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Motor is in, just got to work on some vacuum lines and finish bolting everything up under the hood. Hopping to turn the key by Thursday night. Turns out though that sti and GT TGV deletes have Slightly different bolt pattern and the two centermost intake manifold bolts don't line up by like a quarter of an inch. I got some Grimmspeed deletes off a nasioc member. Might just round out the holes on the intake manifold and make some kind of sandwich plate.
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Update:

 

Car sounded like it was only making compression on one or two cylinders trying to turn it over. Took off the timing covers and somehow nothing is aligned now? The crank and both intakes and one exhaust gear is off by one tooth (crank is off one in the opposite direction of the other two) and the other exhaust is off by like 90 degrees! I don't know how the hell it jumped so bad, everything lined up perfectly the first time i installed it

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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AND, the motor holds oil fine but after cranking it several times i found a small puddle of oil under the car... Do oil seals need to heat up once our something before they make a good seal?? Can't tell for sure just yet but it seems like its coming from the back of the block... Rear main seal???

 

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Do oil seals need to heat up once our something before they make a good seal??

 

Nope, you did something wrong.

 

Can't tell for sure just yet but it seems like its coming from the back of the block... Rear main seal???

 

Have you checked your banjo bolts? That was my problem.

 

Car sounded like it was only making compression on one or two cylinders trying to turn it over. Took off the timing covers and somehow nothing is aligned now? The crank and both intakes and one exhaust gear is off by one tooth (crank is off one in the opposite direction of the other two) and the other exhaust is off by like 90 degrees! I don't know how the hell it jumped so bad, everything lined up perfectly the first time i installed it

 

Hopefully you didn't bend any valves.

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With the intake cams only being off one tooth i don't see it hitting the pistons...and the exhaust side can't hit in any position so I'm safe there. Once i get the timing together again I'll have someone crank the motor while i look underneath on the lift to see where oil is coming from.

 

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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