TLS Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Just to keep things running with this thread.... Anyone know the Brand/Type/Weight oil used as the factory fill? Any factory workers on here? It'll be in 55 gal drums, but there should still be a sticker on it somewhere depicting whats in the barrel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 It might depend on location...hot / cold areas...I am pretty sure that 10-30 is what was and is in mine... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLS Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 10W-30....Really? Back in the day, break-in oils were thin (straight 20weight). Some small engine manufacturers still use real thin oil for the initial fill. Do we have any factory line workers on here? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Maybe thats not what came in it then, but i know thats what is in it now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLS Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 With being fall in New England, you didn't want to use a 5W-30? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 i am due for one soon, thats most likely what i will put in, just a few weeks ago we were hitting 80+... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLS Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Gotcha... Tit bit nipply out this morning! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTWag Posted October 13, 2004 Share Posted October 13, 2004 Just to add my experience; The dealer service rep told me at the dealership today not to change my oil at 1,000 miles, but to wait until 1,500 (or even 3000) because there IS "special break-in oil" from the factory. Supposedly, it has "special chemicals" in it, and I would be wasting my money to change the oil at 1k. So I drove away. Too much info on this topic, and conflicting arguments (even from different dealers.) I think the manual is the way to go.... now what does it say again? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoundBoy Posted October 15, 2004 Share Posted October 15, 2004 does the SOA cover ALL cars sold in the USA & canada? We already know california has a special set of emission standards to follow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted October 17, 2004 Share Posted October 17, 2004 If the mfrs ever used a "break-in oil", I think they quit aroud the time Pearl Harbor was bombed! There is no "break-in oil". That myth has persisted for many years. It came up when I first got into cars back in the '60s, and even then the myth of "break-in oil" was shown to be false. WRT synthetic. Cars such as Porsches, Corvettes and others I can't recall off the top of my head come from the factory with synthetic. The "myth" of running dino oil before using the supposed "more slippery" (which is also BS) synthetic is long dead. Frankly, I find that mechanics are as bad about spreading old myths and misinformation as anybody. Being a mechanicdoesn't give you the insight as to what the engineers are doing. Dino and synthetic meet the same SAE standards. The advantage of synthetic is better resistance to heat and breakdown. I have always been dino oil guy, but I will go to synthetic on the 2nd oil change at around 4K or so. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kenshin Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 Hi everyone, first post here. Great forum, lots of good hard to find specific info. I have the benefit of working part time at a major oil and lube company, and I get all of my car services done free anytime i want and as many times as I want. I used the Motoman's break in method and drove the crap out of my new car from the dealer, and got an oil change first thing at 40 miles on the odo, with regular dino-oil. I've gotten repeated oil changes at the 100 mile interval, and every two hundred miles after that until I reached about 1500, then I switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic. I've always wondered what the effect would be like on a new car, and now that I've had a chance to do it I think the car feels a whole let better because of it. No scientific or factual data, just my personal opinion, since I had the opportunity to do so. My friend has a new Legacy GT sedan too with a few thousand miles on it, and we both think that mine seems to run a bit smoother and has a very slight better response of acceleration, but once again this was only our opinions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted October 19, 2004 Share Posted October 19, 2004 I also believe in the harder-driving break-in, but a couple of things to consider. The engine has the adaptive driving habits capability, so the engine management will adapt to driving styles within certain parameters, Driving the car more agressive can also help the throttle response and the feel. I assume that the GT engine will be like other late-model engines I've had in that they loosen up a bit in 1K, but it's gonna take 7-10K to notice a difference versus a new car. The break-in helps, but there's also adifference in cars as they come off the assembly line. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rexmobbin Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 i have about 700 miles on my LGT now, had about 210 when i picked it up. for my "break-in" habits, so far i've been babying it until the engine's warm, and for the most part, shifting around 4000. once in a while (pretty rarely) i'll shift at 45, 5000, or even redline it. my reasoning for doing this is that with my WRX, i babied it horribly during break-in (shifted under 3k 90% of the time) and the car had a MIGHTY thirst for consuming oil. just my opinion that the 2 might be related. for teh LGT, i plan on changing to dino @ 1k, 3k, then switching over to Mobil1 5w30 synthetic at 6k, then changing the synthetic @ every 4-5k miles from there on out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted October 20, 2004 Share Posted October 20, 2004 I just turned 700 miles this morning. I was gonna do a dino change at 1K, then synthetic at 4K. Turns out I won't be back from this work trip until I have between 1,500 to 3,500 miles on it, so I'll adjust it, but I'll do one dino then synthetic, however the mileage works out. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-2.5-GT Posted October 22, 2004 Share Posted October 22, 2004 just passed 6k and put Mobil 1 in. Did the change myself, but i was amazed at how hard the oil cap had been put on by the dealer, i had all i could do to get it off, i mean the whole car was shaking with me bearing down on the plug bolt. oh well. What is everyone using to get the oil filter out, i had to go to the store 3 times to get different wrenches cause the filter is so damn small, and in the end none of them worked. Does anyone know what size socket filter wrench will work on these??? or any other ideas at how to get it off, i didn't have room to get the traditional strap wrench in there....hmmm...any suggestions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
franklin Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 To get the oil filter off I used a mongo size pair of Channel Loks as I did not have a tiny size filter wrench. Worked fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted October 23, 2004 Share Posted October 23, 2004 I've had cars with small filters before, and a bunch of years ago I got a small filter wrench that has a strap like the typical ones, but doesn't have a handle, just a 3/8" hole for a socket extension. I can use whatever size extension that I need, plus either a ratchet (or breaker bar!) to remove the filter Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanboy Posted October 25, 2004 Share Posted October 25, 2004 Picking up the Legacy tonight. Once the engine is fully warm, plan on driving like I will drive it at the 100K mark; redline every so often, most of the time shifting in the 4K-5K range. Oil change at 1500 with a switch to synthetic, will be the beginning of winter proper in NE, and want the flow ability at 0 degrees synth provides. With all of the talk of break-in procedures, I guess I fall in the aggressive camp. I think having the engine at proper operating temprature is much more important than avoiding 4K+. Have there been any cases of excessive oil use in the '05 GTs? -B -B http://www.standardshift.com Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewScooby Posted November 8, 2004 Share Posted November 8, 2004 I have 1420 miles and next to no oil usage. I have checked it 4 times and havent added a drop. Oil still barely on the F for full where the F was covered upon delivery. I am going to switch to synthetic in the next few weeks. Enjoy the new car! :D [quote name='Beanboy']Picking up the Legacy tonight. Once the engine is fully warm, plan on driving like I will drive it at the 100K mark; redline every so often, most of the time shifting in the 4K-5K range. Oil change at 1500 with a switch to synthetic, will be the beginning of winter proper in NE, and want the flow ability at 0 degrees synth provides. With all of the talk of break-in procedures, I guess I fall in the aggressive camp. I think having the engine at proper operating temprature is much more important than avoiding 4K+. Have there been any cases of excessive oil use in the '05 GTs? -B[/QUOTE] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 8, 2004 Share Posted November 8, 2004 I wouldn't expect any usage, but with 1,670 miles, I am surprised at how dark the oil is. I have already purchased 0w-30 synthetic for the winter, and will be changing in this week. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 12, 2004 Share Posted November 12, 2004 I did the oil/filter change the other day. Actually, I found it to be one of the easier cars to work on. Once it was up on the ramps, it was quick. I just put some paper toweling around the lip of the belly pan under the oil plug to prevent oil from running on top of it, but that was a non-issue. Oil filter was a bit tough, and I broke my old small filter wrench, but it didn't die in vain, as it got the filter loosened. Next time will be good for loosening by hand. I used the STP S6607 filter, which is the same size as the AA100 that I pulled off, but putting in 4.5 quarts got me to about an 1/8 of a quart below the "Full" mark. That's OK, as I will save it for the next oil change (trusting that none will be burned off before the next change). Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miles Posted December 11, 2004 Share Posted December 11, 2004 [quote name='agctr']Ahh ok thanks, the Oil that I have wanted to use but have steered away from it on my current car is Shell Helix Ultra Viscosity - 15W-50 API Spec - SJ/CF Ultimate protection and performance - even under the harshest conditions. For high performance and prestige vehicles. Extreme shear and oxidation stability Any comments anyone ???[/QUOTE] [color=black][size=1]agctr, since your in Australia what viscosity does your manual recommend?[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]I remember a post on BOBISTHEOILGUY [/size][url="http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi"][u][color=blue]http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi[/color][/u][/url][size=1] that checked the manufacturers recommended viscosity of oil for the [u]same car - same engine[/u] but in different countries. The results showed that due to the pressure of the EPA both the [/size][/color][size=1][color=black]U.S.A.[/color][color=black] & [/color][color=black]Canada[/color][color=black] had a lower viscosity (more fuel effecient) recommended oil (5w30). For the the same car in [/color][color=black]Germany[/color][color=black] & [/color][color=black]Australia[/color][color=black] (no EPA) the manufacturer recommended a higher viscosity oil (5w40, 10w40). [/color][/size] [color=black][size=1]Also, on the oil forum they tested different Mobil-1 oils.[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]The top 3 were:[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]1) Mobil Delvac-1... 5w-40[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]2) Mobil-1 ............. 0w40[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]3) Mobil-1 ............. 0w30[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]The oil viscosity ratings in the manual must be recommending dino oils.[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]Our Subaru manual recommends a 5w30 year-round to satisfy the EPA's fuel efficient rating. For cold weather starts a 5w30 dino oil is thinner than a 5w40 or 10w30 dino oil. Plus, the manual recommends the same oil viscosity for someone in Texas, Alaska or anywhere in Canada.[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]A synthetic 5w40 or 0w-40 will be better for sub-zero starts than a dino 5w30. Also, a synthetic 5w40 or 0w-40 will protect the engine better at high engine temperatures.[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]I'm using Mobil-1 0w40 because:[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]- It's a Group V synthetic oil (highest rating) [/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]- Subaru chart in our manual is referring to dino oils[/size][/color] [size=1][color=black]- It's thin enought for low temperature starts (-10 to -40 in [/color][color=black]Canada[/color][color=black])[/color][/size] [color=black][size=1]- In any season, when the engine is warmed-up it's about the same temp.[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]- I care more about engine protection than gas mileage[/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]- Xw30 will breakdown to an Xw29, Xw28, Xw27 ,Xw26, Xw25 ...etc [/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]- Xw40 will breakdown to an Xw39, Xw38, Xw37, Xw36, Xw35 ...etc [/size][/color] [color=black][size=1]If you go onto this forum [/size][url="http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi"][u][color=blue]http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi[/color][/u][/url][size=1] some guys that I respect are Terry & MolaKule. They know what their talking about. [/size][/color] [size=1]Why don't we all chip-in and get Terry (Terry Dyson) to analyze the original oil in our cars? [/size] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rodeo-clown Posted December 14, 2004 Share Posted December 14, 2004 The Australian manual recommends 5W-30 and 10W-30 (for areas where it reaches over 40deg). My Liberty is almost at 1000miles. I'll probably wait a little longer to change the oil, and as it is summer here, I'll go for 10W-30. The manual does say that 5W-30 is preferred and provides more fuel efficency, although it is more than likely to get over 40deg celcius here, so I think 10W-30 it is. Actually, 5W-30 is for very cold climates, which isn't much of Australia. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
area 51 Posted January 13, 2005 Share Posted January 13, 2005 I'm on the "first oil change at 3k" train of thought. I have been driving normal pretty much, by that I mean just like you would a 10 year old car. No track time ( unfortunately all the roads I use going to and from work and errands are all public.. so I try to respect that). I know this car is pretty fast but I just can't find a safe place to open it up. Rabbit starts from light to light are pretty much it but I try to do it smoothly and without dumping the clutch or breaking the law. All I see around me are cops, drunks and idiots ( I work nights ). I guess I really picked this car for the AWD sedan aspect, something tough I could drive in the snow with some blizzaks on as an alternative to SUV's and pickups. I don't want to have to baby this car or worry too much about it outside of scheduled maints. The research I did that brought me to Subaru, was that they were rugged, reliable vehicles. And that is all I ask... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KevinT Posted February 10, 2005 Share Posted February 10, 2005 [quote name='Throttlejockey']I'm breaking mine in hard myself. I've always done it that way whether it was motorcycles or cars. Lots of varying of the rpms and engine braking, tap the limiter a few times. Ever drive 2 used cars and one feels faster than the other and it's the exact same model? I have, and I bet the faster one was broken in hard , not babied. Here's some interesting reading. [url="http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm"]http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm[/url][/QUOTE] Thanks for the link. That was interesting reading. The author made a lot of sense and seemed a credible source...until I got to the bottom of the page and saw the Budweiser ad. :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.