Oil Change & Break-In

[Th3Franz]

[quote name='Salty']When we picked up our GT Ltd yesterday, the salesman told me that it had a break in oil as factory fill and to change it at 1,500 miles. Bob.[/quote] Could be true.. but it's probably just regular oil. CombatCQB, keep in mind that dust and shavings aren't just from manufacturing. As the components wear in, they can produce particles, shavings, etc.

[QToo]

Was at the dealer on Friday for my trunk spoiler swap (MUCH cleaner and Q ship look without the spoiler) and asked the techs about the oil. They said it was regular 5W-30 and not a break-in oil. On the oil filter, the parts dude told me that there was a specific filter for the Turbo. The part # was 15208AA080. This is different from Subey25. The filter is also very small, almost like a motorcycle filter, and cost $12, which seemed pretty pricey even for an OEM part. On the crush washer, is this a Subaru thing? I have never had this on any other make, only for the drain plug. Is it only OEM or do after market Frams need this as well? If so, can these be bought aftermarket as well?

[IwannaSportSedan]

[quote name='QToo']Was at the dealer on Friday for my trunk spoiler swap (MUCH cleaner and Q ship look without the spoiler) and asked the techs about the oil. They said it was regular 5W-30 and not a break-in oil. On the oil filter, the parts dude told me that there was a specific filter for the Turbo. The part # was 15208AA080. This is different from Subey25. The filter is also very small, almost like a motorcycle filter, and cost $12, which seemed pretty pricey even for an OEM part. On the crush washer, is this a Subaru thing? I have never had this on any other make, only for the drain plug. Is it only OEM or do after market Frams need this as well? If so, can these be bought aftermarket as well?[/quote] Interesting about the turbo having a special SMALL? filter... The crush washer thing is about the drain plug. Your comment about frams make me think you are talking about the filter. The crush washer is for the drain plug. it is a "wavy" spring steel washer that compresses between the bolt head and the oil pan, giving a strong seal. After heat-cycling with the engine in it's "compressed" state, on your next oil change, the washer will be flatter. You need a new one to guarantee a good seal again. BTW, does anyone know why manufacturers have gone this route, rather than drain plugs with silicone rubber o-rings, or large bolt-heads for sealing? Never used to have to buy washers for oil changes before buying the 99 miata, but most new cars seem to require this now...

[subey25rs777]

[quote name='IwannaSportSedan'][quote name='QToo']Was at the dealer on Friday for my trunk spoiler swap (MUCH cleaner and Q ship look without the spoiler) and asked the techs about the oil. They said it was regular 5W-30 and not a break-in oil. On the oil filter, the parts dude told me that there was a specific filter for the Turbo. The part # was 15208AA080. This is different from Subey25. The filter is also very small, almost like a motorcycle filter, and cost $12, which seemed pretty pricey even for an OEM part. On the crush washer, is this a Subaru thing? I have never had this on any other make, only for the drain plug. Is it only OEM or do after market Frams need this as well? If so, can these be bought aftermarket as well?[/quote] Interesting about the turbo having a special SMALL? filter... The crush washer thing is about the drain plug. Your comment about frams make me think you are talking about the filter. The crush washer is for the drain plug. it is a "wavy" spring steel washer that compresses between the bolt head and the oil pan, giving a strong seal. After heat-cycling with the engine in it's "compressed" state, on your next oil change, the washer will be flatter. You need a new one to guarantee a good seal again. BTW, does anyone know why manufacturers have gone this route, rather than drain plugs with silicone rubber o-rings, or large bolt-heads for sealing? Never used to have to buy washers for oil changes before buying the 99 miata, but most new cars seem to require this now...[/quote] Over time the remaining oil on the silicone gasket will eat it away. Factor in the heat from the engine and it will start to dry up and crack.

[Deer Killer]

[quote name='IwannaSportSedan'][quote name='QToo'] On the crush washer, is this a Subaru thing? I have never had this on any other make, only for the drain plug. Is it only OEM or do after market Frams need this as well? If so, can these be bought aftermarket as well?[/quote] Interesting about the turbo having a special SMALL? filter... The crush washer thing is about the drain plug. Your comment about frams make me think you are talking about the filter. The crush washer is for the drain plug. it is a "wavy" spring steel washer that compresses between the bolt head and the oil pan, giving a strong seal. After heat-cycling with the engine in it's "compressed" state, on your next oil change, the washer will be flatter. You need a new one to guarantee a good seal again. BTW, does anyone know why manufacturers have gone this route, rather than drain plugs with silicone rubber o-rings, or large bolt-heads for sealing? Never used to have to buy washers for oil changes before buying the 99 miata, but most new cars seem to require this now...[/quote] Most old cars "required" it too, if you read the manual. As long as you get the plug and the mating surface clean of dirt it will make a good seal. If it was cranked down over sand grains last time, it probably won't work this time. It's all about the level of care you give it.

[Guest *Jedimaster*]

[quote name='Th3Franz']I'm doing the gradual break-in where I keep it below 4k the first 500 miles, and then gently increase the peak RPM up to 1000 miles. I let the engine completely warm up before I go above 3000 RPM in any event. For the record, I think I'll have the oil changed at 1500 miles also. I'd like to get the metal particles and stuff out of there pretty quick after break-in.[/quote] Interesting. I was under the impression that you were to change the oil immediately after the 1000 mile breakin was up.

[agctr]

With all my cars, I dont EVER move the car before it has reached a certain point on the engine temp. I think this can only be a good thing. Owning two honda's, a CRX better know to the land of the free as the Honda Del La Sol and a Honda Accord. I drove both with care and ran them in gradually. I believe that I had more power out of both than the standard vehicles because of this. I at no time changed the oil myself, only at Honda during the vehicles due service periods. A lot of ppl in this thread and others say that they change their oil at X, Y & Z periods during the course of the vehicles history. The only thing I dont hear is ppl replacing that oil with Subaru approved oils. Is there a reason for this or is the Subaru Oil no good ?

[InterCooled]

It isn't that Subaru's oils are no good, they are still just natural oils, not synthetic. You should ask what the properties of the oil are from your mechanic. I just know that once the brealk-in period is done on your car, switching to synthetic is a good thing. Not only does it prevent as much wear and tear on the engine but it can provide better performance (increase hp and torque). Also if you are in a colder climate (like I am), a synthetic oil helps during cold start ups. I use Mobil 1 5W-30 in the winter and 10W-30 in the summer. Love the stuff. The only other synthetic oil I am considering is Amsoil. If you haven't heard of this stuff, do a search on google for comparisons and check it out for yourself. Offical Site is [url]http://www.amsoil.com/[/url]

[agctr]

Ahh ok thanks, the Oil that I have wanted to use but have steered away from it on my current car is Shell Helix Ultra Viscosity - 15W-50 API Spec - SJ/CF Ultimate protection and performance - even under the harshest conditions. For high performance and prestige vehicles. Extreme shear and oxidation stability Any comments anyone ???

[outahere]

[quote name='gtguy']Does the owner's manual or maintenance schedule provide any guidance regarding oil changes? With the WRX, there was break-in oil in the motor, and there was a specified interval before the first change. Kevin[/quote] The maintenance schedule at subaru.com specifies the 1st oil change at 3000 miles, or at 3 months, whichever occurs first. And all subsequent changes at 7500 mile intervals, or 7.5 months, whichever occurs first. So even if you only drive 500 miles the first 3 months, Subaru states that it is okay to change the oil.

[outahere]

[quote name='agctr']Ahh ok thanks, the Oil that I have wanted to use but have steered away from it on my current car is Shell Helix Ultra Viscosity - 15W-50 API Spec - SJ/CF Ultimate protection and performance - even under the harshest conditions. For high performance and prestige vehicles. Extreme shear and oxidation stability Any comments anyone ???[/quote] A 15W-50 oil sounds a bit thick for a brand new, modern engine. I would expect it to decrease mileage.

[agctr]

thanks outahere, hmm not sure, I mean its the oil they apparently put in brand new F1 engines at Ferrari so I can only imagine its all good. Anyone else have any ideas ????

[scubie02]

[quote name='outahere'][quote name='gtguy']Does the owner's manual or maintenance schedule provide any guidance regarding oil changes? With the WRX, there was break-in oil in the motor, and there was a specified interval before the first change. Kevin[/quote] The maintenance schedule at subaru.com specifies the 1st oil change at 3000 miles, or at 3 months, whichever occurs first. And all subsequent changes at 7500 mile intervals, or 7.5 months, whichever occurs first. So even if you only drive 500 miles the first 3 months, Subaru states that it is okay to change the oil.[/quote] Actually, doesn't the owners manual seem to say 3000 or 3 months and then have the 3.0 in parentheses? I thought it seemed to be saying only the 3.0 motor gets the 3k change, and all others start at 7500, which seemed high for a first oil change...

[Guest *Jedimaster*]

^^^What he said^^^ I think it's a good idea to change the oil after 1000 and then at 4000. The most important part to me would be getting all the metal particles that wore off during breakin out of the crankcase.

[IwannaSportSedan]

[quote name='agctr']thanks outahere, hmm not sure, I mean its the oil they apparently put in brand new F1 engines at Ferrari so I can only imagine its all good. Anyone else have any ideas ????[/quote] Uhhh.... I'd not use that criteria. Ferrari F1 engines probably have a 10k+ redline, and in race conditions run above 6k RPMs almost all the time. Plus they each have more engineering hours in them than your entire car, and probably cost more than 5x as much. They run much hotter, temp wise, which thins the oil film down, and that thick grade of oil is made for those ultra-high shearing forces. Not to mention that most race car engines are probably warmed before starting, and the electric oil pumps are started and up to operating pressure before the engine is turned over. Cold starting is not a part of their vocabulary. If you like that brand, that is fine, but for a much lower RPM use engine, I would use the recommended grade. 10-30 or 5-30 in the summer, and 5-30 or 0-30 in the winter, if you are in a cold winter climate. Thinner oil at cold startup will do your engine much better than thicker oil that is designed for higher temps and loads than your street car will see. Thinner oils will allow the oil pump to pressurize the system much easier and faster, and the oil will seep between parts easier. Synth especially, and most natural oils will have a much stronger film strength than your engine will need, so film breakdown and metal to metal contact shouldn't happen once the pump circulates the oil.

[praedet]

What about this stuff, I have read some good things on it Mobil 1 0W-40 [url]http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_0W-40.asp[/url] Ted

[gtguy]

[quote name='praedet']What about this stuff, I have read some good things on it Mobil 1 0W-40 [url]http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_0W-40.asp[/url] Ted[/quote] The motor wants 5-30, according to the manual and the oiling port on the engine. Mobil 1 is nice stuff...all of it. Kevin

[outahere]

[quote name='agctr']thanks outahere, hmm not sure, I mean its the oil they apparently put in brand new F1 engines at Ferrari so I can only imagine its all good. Anyone else have any ideas ????[/quote] The Ferrari F1 motor will get up to around 18,500rpm during a race, and will be rebuilt after every race. It will be built "looser" than a production engine to decrease friction and increase horsepower, and may therefore benefit from a heavier oil than you would want to use in a "tighter" production motor.

[Xaqtly]

This is kind of an age old argument. I tend to lean towards the "do what Subaru tells you to do" school of thought, because after all they are the people who designed these parts and really do know how it's supposed to work. I don't believe Subaru is telling you to change the oil at 3k miles simply because it's traditional or because other companies do it. I do believe all their suggestions, including the break-in period, have a safety margin built into them. There are plenty of people out there who believe engines don't need to break in at all, or people who just don't know or care enough about it to stay below 4k RPM if Subaru didn't specifically tell them to. For me, it boils down to the fact that I know engineers like that, friends of mine who design car parts for a living, and if they tell me that their part needs a specified break-in period or something like that, I know they're telling me that because they've done exhaustive testing on it and that really is the best way to do it. In any case, I've had very good results following Subaru's recommended procedures. My stock WRX wagon dynoed at 194 HP and 208 lb-ft of torque at the wheels at 7,000 miles, a good 10-15 wheel HP higher than every other WRX they've run on that specific dyno. I've followed the same procedures for my LGT, and I'll dyno it after I get a few thousand more miles on it too.

[Legacy05GT]

[quote name='jedimaster']^^^What he said^^^ I think it's a good idea to change the oil after 1000 and then at 4000. The most important part to me would be getting all the metal particles that wore off during breakin out of the crankcase.[/quote] Am i wrong, or doesn't the OIL FILTER take care of these metal particles?

[Drift Monkey]

Any more input on this subject? I'm inching towards that 1500 mile mark and still debating whether or not to change the oil now or at 3000 miles. My salesman actually told me to change the oil at 3k...so I don't know what to think?

[Deer Killer]

[quote name='gtguy'][quote name='praedet']What about this stuff, I have read some good things on it Mobil 1 0W-40 [url]http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_0W-40.asp[/url] Ted[/quote] The motor wants 5-30, according to the manual and the oiling port on the engine. Mobil 1 is nice stuff...all of it. Kevin[/quote] 0W synthetic is not the same thing as 0W dino. There is no such thing as 0 viscosity. Because of it's properties it doesn't change the way dino oil would once it gets warm, it keeps working...

[Deer Killer]

[quote name='Drift Monkey']Any more input on this subject? I'm inching towards that 1500 mile mark and still debating whether or not to change the oil now or at 3000 miles. My salesman actually told me to change the oil at 3k...so I don't know what to think?[/quote] I've seen it since I had to empty some out, I'd change it sooner than later.. however not to synthetic yet, not enough friction to finish smoothing everything out.

[gt_ltd]

[quote name='Drift Monkey']Any more input on this subject? I'm inching towards that 1500 mile mark and still debating whether or not to change the oil now or at 3000 miles. My salesman actually told me to change the oil at 3k...so I don't know what to think?[/quote] the sales guy told me to change at 1.5K (they are paying for it), but again, your car lives in TX and mine CO.

[Drift Monkey]

So...to everyone that changed their oil, what brand did you go with?