Dactylonian Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 I've got an '05 GT LTD 5MT that I purchased in July '04. I changed the oil a few months ago and removed an AA080 and replaced it with an AA080. I was at the dealership last month to buy another filter, and they gave me an AA100. :confused: I questioned this but the guy behind the counter showed me on his computer that the AA100's replaced the AA080's in December. I have not installed the AA100 yet because I want to know what the right size should be. Thanks, E Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted February 26, 2005 Share Posted February 26, 2005 Being right off the deaer's records, I wouldnt worry about it, but yes, the p/n changed. Here's a thread on NASIC discussing it (go down at least halfway through the second page to get current): [url]http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=434057&page=1&pp=25[/url] There are a number of filters that fit the car in various lengths and diameters. All that really matters is the threaded hole and the gasket size. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
illt3ck Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 It's great to hear who thinks what & all, but what does SOA say about the break-in period for our cars? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted February 27, 2005 Share Posted February 27, 2005 Do a Search on this forum for "break in" (and variations thereof) and you will find more opinions than you care to read on the subject! If it matters to you, follow the recommendations in the owners manual. If you are like many of us who beleve in the "break it in as you're gonna drive it" method, and have had excellent, great-running cars in the past from that method, don't worry about it. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Track Rebel Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Here's my break-in process for my last car, and Evo VIII. I went through the gears a few times at full throttle in the first few miles, then took it easy (under 4000 rpm, no more than half throttle) until 750 miles. then I began driving the car normally. First oil chnge at 3000 miles. It dynoed at 234 whp 249 torque at ~2000 miles. I will be following the same process for the LGT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bk530 Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 i'm new at this.. so.. when do you start driving the legacy hard.. and what's the break-in thing.. is that when you're supposed to drive hard.. and does it matter if it's a AT or MT? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 [quote name='bk530']i'm new at this.. so.. when do you start driving the legacy hard.. and what's the break-in thing.. is that when you're supposed to drive hard.. and does it matter if it's a AT or MT?[/QUOTE] I started by hitting redline in 1st gear pulling out of the dealership, and never worried about it after that. Went to synthetic oil at the first change at 1,700 miles. Now at 14K, the car runs great, and m porky Limted wagon got easly into the 13.90s with a Stage 1 AccessPort. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
porgie Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 i agree with throttlejockey it seem not an easy break in is the better and funner way to do it. that site had a lot interesting info. [url="http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm"]http://mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deneb Posted June 11, 2005 Share Posted June 11, 2005 IMO, do what Subaru says to do. However, no one seems to have had an issue with a 'drive it like you stole it' break in, so that's probably fine as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moviemadness Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 I bought the car with 120 miles on it I redlined it test driving. I redlined it a few times already changed to mobile 1 the day I bought the car. all this break in stuff is getting me nervous. should I go back to dino? I'm at like 300 miles now. Someone tell me something quick before I do something stupid with the car.:mad: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 [quote name='moviemadness']I bought the car with 120 miles on it I redlined it test driving. I redlined it a few times already changed to mobile 1 the day I bought the car. all this break in stuff is getting me nervous. should I go back to dino? I'm at like 300 miles now. Someone tell me something quick before I do something stupid with the car.:mad:[/QUOTE] NO!! You are doing EXACTLY what the car needs!! FWIW, I have done the hard break-in on every new car I've had since 1978. And each of them has been a strong runner compared to other similar cars. Coincidence?? I think not!! FWIW, my heavy LGT Limited wagon, with a 50-mile Stage 1 reflash (it takes a good 100 miles to really get the performance) and my heavy 210# ass in the seat turned a best of 13.90 in 72-degree, humid weather. Three of the five runs were in the 13.9x range. When I run again in late October in (hopefully) cooler weather, with a settled-in reflash, I expect easy 13.7x runs, with "maybe" a high 13.6x on a stock LTD wagon. BTW, I went to Mobil 1 at the first oil change at 1,700 miles. The dragstrip was done with 10K on the car. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deneb Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 IMO, if that is doing 'exactly what the car needs' why doesn't it state that in the manual? However IMO, based on all the anecdotal at best evidence to support either a gentle or a 'drive it like you stole it' breakin, it probably really doesn't matter a whole lot either way. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 [quote name='deneb']IMO, if that is doing 'exactly what the car needs' why doesn't it state that in the manual? However IMO, based on all the anecdotal at best evidence to support either a gentle or a 'drive it like you stole it' breakin, it probably really doesn't matter a whole lot either way.[/QUOTE] In this litigious society, what do you expect the manual to say? If you need to read the owners manual for the advice, they will tell you exactly what they want to keep themselves safe. Follow the manual if you will.....but if you line up with me at a light, expect to get your ass handed to you!! :D Every mfr puts this crapola in their owners manual. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deneb Posted September 8, 2005 Share Posted September 8, 2005 I would expect that if there was something inherently wrong with a gentle break in that the manual would therefore NOT specify a gentle break in. Furthermore, if breakin was such a huge issue, I would expect it to be done in the factory in a controlled environment. I remain unconvinced that either method is either more or less benificial than the other. If someone can show me verifiable scientific evidence to the contrary, please do so, I'd be very interested to see it. Since you've apparantly upgraded to AP stage 1, I'd expect you to 'hand my ass to me'. Plus, I've a ways to go to master the correct AWD launch technique with a MT. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
castor Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 Well, I'm changing to Amsoil 5/30 at 1500....and never looking back. As per all my cars. C Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 6, 2005 Share Posted November 6, 2005 [quote name='deneb']I would expect that if there was something inherently wrong with a gentle break in that the manual would therefore NOT specify a gentle break in. Furthermore, if breakin was such a huge issue, I would expect it to be done in the factory in a controlled environment. I remain unconvinced that either method is either more or less benificial than the other. If someone can show me verifiable scientific evidence to the contrary, please do so, I'd be very interested to see it. Since you've apparantly upgraded to AP stage 1, I'd expect you to 'hand my ass to me'. Plus, I've a ways to go to master the correct AWD launch technique with a MT.[/QUOTE] If you have read the LGT manual (or any owners manual, for that matter), there are a lot of pieces of advice that drivers never follow. Who is going to spend the tme to do a controlled test. Pat Bedard had an editorial on it around 20 years ago where he discussed it with a Ford engineer. they were gong to pull & analyze an engne in a Mustang GT that was driven (abused) by the press corp. The Ford guy said it was the quickest and loosest 5.0 they had ever experienced. FWIW I have now run a 13.61 with only the AP Stage 1 in my heavy Limited wagon. A buddy of mine is also a convert, as he broke in his new Hemi Charger hard, and has turned low 13.80s in bone-stock condition with his 265#s behind the wheel (a good 3/10s quick than times on similar cars). You could call these "good cars" from the factory, but this has happened to every one of my new cars since the late '70s Coincidence? I doubt it. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deneb Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Well, until I see the results of a scientific study, I remain unconvinced that either method is better than the other. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
starlabs Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 ^ +1 It's all just anecdotal stories as far as I'm concerned. Until somebody does this to tens/hundreds of cars and checks the engines after significant mileage, it's really up in the air. -=- Livin life at 140 BPM -=- Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSiWRX Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 ^ +2. :) <-- I love Winky, my "periwinkle" (ABP) LGT! - Allen / Usual Suspect "DumboRAT" / One of the Three Stooges '16 Outback, '16 WRX, 7th Subaru Family Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 Whatever. As you buy new cars over the years, and break them in according to the very conservative factory recommendations, don't post questions as to why your car doesn't run as well as other similar cars. As an old fart, i've been responding to Internet lists/forums for many years as to why my cars (and others) run better than other cars. In EVERY case, we have seen a difference in break-in. Scientific? No, but it is absolutely clear in my mind that it works. FWIW, I also had a long-term test with an '89 SHO that I bought new. I hit the 7K redline multiple times every day of it's life (I believe the term is "I beat the snot out of it")....and I sold it 10 years later with 182K miles. I religiously changed the dino oil every 3K. Oil consumption was a quart every 2,500 miles, down from less than a quart at every 3k change. My buddy is the new owners and he ran 14.8x ETs with a slipping clutch at about 190K miles. He stll has the car. the body is rotten, but it still runs strong with about 210K on it. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moviemadness Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 I thought synthetic was better...? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 [quote name='moviemadness']I thought synthetic was better...?[/QUOTE] Better than what?? ;-) FWIW, I will always stay with dino oil on n/a engines. And I will always stay with synthetic on turbo & supercharged engines due to the better heat resistance. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moviemadness Posted November 7, 2005 Share Posted November 7, 2005 I hope you have a good convincing arguemet for the ongoing debate on the issue: "Synthetic is too slippery for new engines and you should break in on dino for newer engines for the 1st 1k miles" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iguanamafia Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 Not so much for the break in, but as far as what oils are best per your application? [url="http://www.bobistheoilguy.com"]www.bobistheoilguy.com[/url] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 9, 2005 Share Posted November 9, 2005 [quote name='moviemadness']I hope you have a good convincing arguemet for the ongoing debate on the issue: "Synthetic is too slippery for new engines and you should break in on dino for newer engines for the 1st 1k miles"[/QUOTE] As was mentioned in one of these threads, the "Synthetic Is Slipperier" is an OMT (Old Mechanic's Tale). Not true, that has been a rumor that has floated around for years, and just won't die. it even comes fro the mouths (and keyboards) of people who should know better. Synthetic has better heat and wear resistance, to put it more simply. "Slipperier" is not an attribute. Break-in is a non-issue. OEM mfrs use it in certain cars from the factory. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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