CombatCQB Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 haha, I feel like I'm really ahead of the game here. But I changed my oil at 1100miles to Mobil1 5w30 and a PureONE filter. The reason I believe in early oil changes for a new car is what I learned in engine rebuilding. New or rebuild engines need to form wear patterns between parts, lots of metal particles get generated within the first 1000 miles. Not to throw a monkey wrench into this, but the engine rebuilding textbook I had actually says that you should change oil at 500miles! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
InterCooled Posted August 24, 2004 Share Posted August 24, 2004 [quote name='CombatCQB']haha, I feel like I'm really ahead of the game here. But I changed my oil at 1100miles to Mobil1 5w30 and a PureONE filter. The reason I believe in early oil changes for a new car is what I learned in engine rebuilding. New or rebuild engines need to form wear patterns between parts, lots of metal particles get generated within the first 1000 miles. Not to throw a monkey wrench into this, but the engine rebuilding textbook I had actually says that you should change oil at 500miles![/quote] I hope the 5W30 is not synthetic, if it is, you put it in way to early. Before you covert over to synthetic, you should have run the car for about 6000 miles (9,656.04 kilometers) on dino oil. That makes sure your piston heads wear corretly againts the cylinder walls. You need to create a good seal. 1100 miles is not enough to swith to synthetic. If it isn't synthetic, you can ignore this post.... :oops: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Opie Posted August 25, 2004 Share Posted August 25, 2004 [quote name='Drift Monkey']So...to everyone that changed their oil, what brand did you go with?[/quote] 1500 - Pennzoil 5W30 3000 - Pennzoil 5w30 once I get to 6,000 - Motul 5W30 :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retslo Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 I get factory scheduled maintenace done by Subaru (for free) as part of my lease. I don't see any good reason that we need to change oil before factory recommended one. On my other car (German) they have 10000 mile interval so I'm not worried. On my old WRX I changed it every 10000 miles (synthetic) and it ran just fine. Only thing I could see would be filter replacement at 2000-3000 and that is all. Sergej Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kanoswrx Posted August 27, 2004 Share Posted August 27, 2004 I just changed my oil last night at 1500 miles. First off I recommend just taking that big front plastic shield off when doing the oil. When you do that you can change the oil without jacking up the car. Only takes about 5 minutes to take it off anyways. When draining the oil I noticed it was still clean, usually dino oil turns really dark. I was pretty amazed. I guess not much stuff came off the engine into the oil during breakin. Hopefully that means it was built good :) Anyways I used Castrol GTX 10w30 in the car since its still pretty hot in Northern VA, and I push my car around town :) Once it gets colder I will swap it out for 5w30. I will probably do my next oil change around 2500-3000 miles as I don't drive far to work, and by the time I reach that many miles it will be fall and I could benefit from the 5w30. Then I will change it again at 6000 miles and probably throw in Mobil 1 then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bebopper Posted August 29, 2004 Share Posted August 29, 2004 My local independent Subaru mechanic strongly recommended changing the oil (and filter) at 1000 miles and again at about 3000 miles. He also said to wait at least 2 or 3 oil changes before changing to synthetic oil. He used Mobil 5W-30 conventional for my first oil change. I've been going to him for 7 years and trust his opinion. He was a Subaru factory mechanic before opening his own shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipjumper Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 I have built 3 subaru motors, two legacy 2.2 turbos and one EJ20G. My father also races a 1967 Triumph daytona 500 which we have rebuilt countless times. We have always used the mototune method. I understand if you want to use the owners manual method. thats up to you. I just dont get these people that still believe you have to keep the speed under 60 and vary it... Where did this idea come from?!?!?! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ken S Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 I completed my first oil change this past weekend with a little over 3K on the odo. Actually, this is the 2nd oil change -- I had the dealer do the 1st one at 1000 miles (it was free). I put the LGT wagon up on ramps and didn't take off the shroud. In hindsight, it may have resulted in a slightly cleaner job. The oil from the drain plug as well as the filter both dribbled on to the shroud. It was relatively easy to clean up but I think a few drops must have splashed up onto the exhaust manifold around the filter as I could smell the oil burn off the next day. The new oil filter is not as easy to remove as with previous models. It's not only smaller, but the outside is not rubberized and it's right there next to the exhaust manifold. I filled it up with Castrol GTX 5W30. My plan is to switch to synthetic at the next oil change. While my LGT was up on ramps, I took the time to admire the underside. Subaru has done a good job in enclosing a lot of the underbody to minimize drag. Ken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 [quote name='shipjumper']I have built 3 subaru motors, two legacy 2.2 turbos and one EJ20G. My father also races a 1967 Triumph daytona 500 which we have rebuilt countless times. We have always used the mototune method. I understand if you want to use the owners manual method. thats up to you. I just dont get these people that still believe you have to keep the speed under 60 and vary it... Where did this idea come from?!?!?![/quote] So you don't have to keep under 60 and vary it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipjumper Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 when and why would you have to do that? its not in the manual. Its something that all the old school sales people have said since back in the day... "wheel bearings have to wear in" BS, have you ever seen a wheel bearing? they are machined perfectly! I have never gotten a true data backed up or good reason to keep it under 60. 60 is a different gear and torque for every make of car out there. what possible benefit could it hold? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 [quote name='shipjumper']when and why would you have to do that? its not in the manual. Its something that all the old school sales people have said since back in the day... "wheel bearings have to wear in" BS, have you ever seen a wheel bearing? they are machined perfectly! I have never gotten a true data backed up or good reason to keep it under 60. 60 is a different gear and torque for every make of car out there. what possible benefit could it hold?[/quote] Well, ok, I was asking less so about the keeping it under 60 and more about varying engine speed... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipjumper Posted August 31, 2004 Share Posted August 31, 2004 varying engine speeds I can see. It will change the side load of the piston rings. but think about it in a physics route. the engine spins at 3000+ RPM how can 1000 miles be a break in period? How much of that time is spent idleing, how much seen at highway speeds. There are WAYYY too many variables to say 1000 miles. I would say in the first 100 miles break in is done. and you better wind it up to 6000... if you don't whats going to happen when you do after the 1000??? these engines are built by macines now... theres very little error tolorances now. porting and polishing used to yield HUGE gains on old motors that were hand machined... now it might yeild 1hp... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeGT Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 [quote name='Deer Killer'][quote name='gtguy'][quote name='praedet']What about this stuff, I have read some good things on it Mobil 1 0W-40 [url]http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_0W-40.asp[/url] Ted[/quote] The motor wants 5-30, according to the manual and the oiling port on the engine. Mobil 1 is nice stuff...all of it. Kevin[/quote] 0W synthetic is not the same thing as 0W dino. There is no such thing as 0 viscosity. Because of it's properties it doesn't change the way dino oil would once it gets warm, it keeps working...[/quote] Actually, 0W has already been defined in the SAE J300 specifications for a long time. Also, there is no difference between synthetic and non-synthetic oil in the rating system. 0W is defined as a CCS of less than 6200 at -35C and MRV less than 60,000 at -40C. If it is a single grade oil, then the kinematic viscosity at 100C has to be greater than 3.8 cSt. 0W and 20 are the lightest grades currently defined. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 [quote name='JoeGT'][quote name='Deer Killer'][quote name='gtguy'][quote name='praedet']What about this stuff, I have read some good things on it Mobil 1 0W-40 [url]http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_0W-40.asp[/url] Ted[/quote] The motor wants 5-30, according to the manual and the oiling port on the engine. Mobil 1 is nice stuff...all of it. Kevin[/quote] 0W synthetic is not the same thing as 0W dino. There is no such thing as 0 viscosity. Because of it's properties it doesn't change the way dino oil would once it gets warm, it keeps working...[/quote] Actually, 0W has already been defined in the SAE J300 specifications for a long time. Also, there is no difference between synthetic and non-synthetic oil in the rating system. 0W is defined as a CCS of less than 6200 at -35C and MRV less than 60,000 at -40C. If it is a single grade oil, then the kinematic viscosity at 100C has to be greater than 3.8 cSt. 0W and 20 are the lightest grades currently defined.[/quote] Notice how the grade is defined by low temperature performance, but but at 100C only a _minimum_ kinematic viscosity is specified. What I am saying is that synthetic does not lose it's viscosity as a function of temperature in the way that dino does. So at engine operating temperature 0W synthetic maybe equivalent of a much higher grade oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeGT Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 [quote name='Deer Killer'][quote name='JoeGT'][quote name='Deer Killer'][quote name='gtguy'][quote name='praedet']What about this stuff, I have read some good things on it Mobil 1 0W-40 [url]http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/GLXXENPVLMOMobil1_0W-40.asp[/url] Ted[/quote] The motor wants 5-30, according to the manual and the oiling port on the engine. Mobil 1 is nice stuff...all of it. Kevin[/quote] 0W synthetic is not the same thing as 0W dino. There is no such thing as 0 viscosity. Because of it's properties it doesn't change the way dino oil would once it gets warm, it keeps working...[/quote] Actually, 0W has already been defined in the SAE J300 specifications for a long time. Also, there is no difference between synthetic and non-synthetic oil in the rating system. 0W is defined as a CCS of less than 6200 at -35C and MRV less than 60,000 at -40C. If it is a single grade oil, then the kinematic viscosity at 100C has to be greater than 3.8 cSt. 0W and 20 are the lightest grades currently defined.[/quote] Notice how the grade is defined by low temperature performance, but but at 100C only a _minimum_ kinematic viscosity is specified. What I am saying is that synthetic does not lose it's viscosity as a function of temperature in the way that dino does. So at engine operating temperature 0W synthetic maybe equivalent of a much higher grade oil.[/quote] That is ONLY true for single grade oils. For multigrade oils, the kinematic viscosity at 100C is specified according to the high temperature spec. For example, ALL 0W-20 MUST have a viscosity @ 100C between 5.6 and 9.3 cSt, irregardless of it's basestock. In this specific case, a 0W-40 must have a viscosity @ 100C between 12.5 and 16.3 cSt. Again, this is regardless of the basestock used. In practice however, given the limitations of viscosity modifiers, you will need a basestock with a very high viscosity index (ie. a base oil with a very low cold viscometrics WHILE having a relatively high hot viscometrics), which tends to fall in the synthetic group of oils (however, the definition of synthetic is somewhat ambiguous, since mineral oil CAN be considered synthetic if it is properly processed). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gt_ltd Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 My car is still under 550 miles and I have been driving at 65~80MPH mostly (I try to keep it below 3K RPM unless I want to pass a car or merge or change lane). I mean, how am I supposed to drive at 60MPH on the highway when everybody is driving at 65+? It's just dangerous to drive slowly. This Space For Rent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipjumper Posted September 1, 2004 Share Posted September 1, 2004 tahts what im trying to say... a MPH isnt an accurate measurment. you could be in 4th doing 60, 3rd doing 60... its all too vague in the owners manual... do some machinist and physics research and learn about engines... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deer Killer Posted September 3, 2004 Share Posted September 3, 2004 [quote name='QToo'] On the oil filter, the parts dude told me that there was a specific filter for the Turbo. The part # was 15208AA080. This is different from Subey25. The filter is also very small, almost like a motorcycle filter, and cost $12, which seemed pretty pricey even for an OEM part. [/quote] Damn, it is _really_ small.. I paid $8 for mine. Can this thing really handle the oil flow for a turbo engine? Don't we have piston oil sprayers as well? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drift Monkey Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 [quote name='Deer Killer'][quote name='QToo'] On the oil filter, the parts dude told me that there was a specific filter for the Turbo. The part # was 15208AA080. This is different from Subey25. The filter is also very small, almost like a motorcycle filter, and cost $12, which seemed pretty pricey even for an OEM part. [/quote] Damn, it is _really_ small.. I paid $8 for mine. Can this thing really handle the oil flow for a turbo engine? Don't we have piston oil sprayers as well?[/quote] I paid $12 as well. Remember that smaller doesn't mean ti has less filtering capacities. In fact, most of the turbo lineup uses smaller filter IIRC. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoeGT Posted September 4, 2004 Share Posted September 4, 2004 Holy crow, they charged you $12 for the filter!!! I paid around $48 out the door for 6 turbo filter (small black filters) and 6 crush washers from my local dealership (Oldham Subaru in Nicholasville, KY). They do ship if you're out of town. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retslo Posted September 9, 2004 Share Posted September 9, 2004 You guys are paying waaay to much for your filters. Check out nasioc.com for couple Subaru Dealers that advertise there. It is more like 6-7 per filter + .80 cents for crusher(s). Sergej Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipjumper Posted September 10, 2004 Share Posted September 10, 2004 yeah my dealership parts dept. is the same way! im not a vendor, so I know im not allowed to post prices... oh well! :wink: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
awdG35killer Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 so the census votes Engine break-in : ~600mi. 1st oil change : 1500mi. 2nd oil change : 4000mi. ??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STG Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 I'm amazed that posts in this thread refer to what a salesman said about oil and/or break-in. If you have a technical question, it's easy enough to get the answers directlty from SOA. Just call the 800 customer support number and ask a few questions that are over the head of the operator. Make it clear that you want to speak with someone who has the appropriate techincal knowledge to answer your questions accurately. I recently had a telephone conversation with a SOA representative (he handles technical and warranty issues for dealers). A few of the things he told me: For U.S. model Legacys the factory oil is Shell 5w-30. It is regular mineral oil, not special break-in oil, semi-synthetic or full synthetic. It is O.K. to switch to full sythetic as soon as you want. He was very clear on this point, stating that he had several conversations with engineers about this question. You do not have to run mineral oil for 500, 1000, 6000, or 12,000 miles before switching to full synthetic. You can drain the oil from a brand new car and replace it with sythetic right away. The dealer service advisor and salesman told me that my car came with semi-synthetic oil as a factory fill. They also told me not to change it for 3,000 miles. Who would you believe? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shipjumper Posted October 6, 2004 Share Posted October 6, 2004 Exactly, my point exactly.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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