CombatCQB

Just responded to PM with my email to work through this.

Hi all, working through the PM's now. Sorry for the delay.

I don't have my LGT anymore so these parts need a new home, prices does not include shipping. Paypal only and +3% if using CC. Spec-B aluminum front arms $150 SOLD - 3 arms in the set due to the original LH arm being bent so a new LH arm is included. The original arms has poly bushings and the LH ones can be transferred to the new arm. Also included are new OEM bushings, OEM mounting stud and LH mounting plate. Intake timing sprocket and belt tensioner $100 SOLD - both LH and RH timing sprocket never installed 13320AA001/13322AA001. The belt tensioner is 13033AA042 JDM center screen bezel $30 SOLD - Had a 7" display running a CarPC for a while using this bezel. I imagine it would be much easier to do today with a rpi.

I'm curious if anyone knows if the hose clamps are loosening or just over time the hoses take on the clamp shape and hence don't seal as well? For the first one, I'd consider better clamps if possible. But for the second, it'll just be a reminder to replace hoses maybe after 150k. Also any thoughts on the idea of some rubber treatment to swell the hoses in places that the clamps can be seen but a tool can't reach?

Always thankful for these forums

I've been digging around the parts databases and no luck with these. I need the stud bolt for the front control arm rear bushings and the support plate that fits over it. It's part 8 and 5 in the attached diagram.

It's all documented here: http://www.legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79982

I'm using roadrunner right now. But I might write it as a stand alone app first. maybe a java app that can be part of Jdash later on.

I can currently capture and decode the data from the clock/trip meter with my laptop. I just don't have a fancy way to integrate it into my UI yet.

Jazzy is the simplest option for stock systems right now. It is completely logical to bypass the stock radio and drive the speakers with a cheap amp directly from the PC. But then the stock system just sits there doing nothing. I would like to integrate the stock radio controls to the PC so that you can still use the interface for something.

Just for comparison, my setup is a VIA nanoITX at 1GHz, 1GB of RAM. I started with a 2GB CF card for OS and 40GB mobile HDD for media. But after finding a few corruptions on the HDD develop (mostly my fault I think for to securing the HDD properly) I've switched to a 2GB CF for OS, 2GB CF for applications and a 8GB USB stick for media. I plan to add a DVD drive, but it's not a high priority. Video playback is a little overrated. I just don't find enough idle time in the car to watch movies. And it's down right dangerous while driving (and I have tried once). The two areas I spent to most time is the power supply and the SW optimization. The SW is still not 100% done, but part of the fun is to make this system uniquely your own.

The biggest enemy to desktop parts in a car environment is heat and power requirements. That said, many people have and still use desktop parts in CarPCs. If space is not an issue, then it's really about finding or building a case that fits in the car. For power requirements, decide if you really need dual CPUs. If you want to keep the parts you have now, think about underclocking to reduce power. Thinking about changing the HD or DVD to mobile parts that also use less power. Pay special attention to selecting a power supply, efficiency is the name of the game. Start by estimating your power requirements, each component should have a spec showing their voltage and current which you can multiply to get the power in Watts. The key is to pick a PSU that fits the usage and not just the biggest possible which can mean more heat. In the past, people have used DC-to-AC converters and then plugged in regular ATX power supplies. This is very inefficient since you're coverting DC to AC then back to DC. Go with a DC-DC supply, I don't know how much a dual CPU will need but it'll be on the high side of what available out there. The heat (and cold) issue will require at the minimum very good heatsinks. Even with a fan, if the ambient air in a trunk could 50C already. So moving air will hopefully keep the CPU in operational temperature range. The more heat generating components you have, the more air you want to move. The good thing with some of the mobile parts is that they are rated for a wider temperature operating range. With cold temperatures, the one thing you can avoid is a slight reduction in LCD performance until it warms up. It's something everyone has to live with in the cold. Mobile HDD will work much better than desktop HDD here for sure since moving parts require lubrication and lubrication can harden when cold. One other thing I forgot to mention is boot times, once you have a setup running then you'll realize you don't want to wait two minutes for the PC to boot up before you can start listening to your music. There are tons of threads on how to optimize the windows environment to speed up boot time or use hibernate or even switch to linux in some cases.

sebberry: no dust filter on the vents? BMac: Has anyone else tried phonco with iphone? I'm thinking if the iphone has special AT commands like moto phones do. But if it works on the Q7, maybe just standard AT commands will work fine.

That TMR screen pops up every now and then. It is a good alternative to a full transflective. 600nits is considered the very very minimum for daylight readability. My only concern is the heat difference with the high brightness, but I don't think anyone has measured. I just bought some 3M film to retrofit into my LCD, plus I'm also doing something with the touch screen to help improve the contrast.

That is very nice indeed. I should get some lessons on solid works. BTW, where is your power supply going to be? I'm asking because I'm having a bit of ground noise that I need to fix because my power supply is far away from my motherboard.

Finally found the JDM Spec B front bumper part number from a japanese auction site: 57704AG140

I've start some work on that. But it is not a strict EIA232 standard, it's a 12V level signal. I'm trying to identify more of the circuitry to see if there is some level translation for the on-board controller.

Ah, I forgot the newer cars don't have the airbag light. My trip meter uses a 10 pin connector. I don't know what the proper mating socket will be, but I do have the pinouts. Try to verify it against your pinout before using though. ___ ----| |----- | 1 2 3 4 5 | | 6 7 8 9 10 | -------------- viewed from the face of the connector Pin 1 = +12V Illumination Pin 2 = Illumination Override (active low) Pin 3 = Airbag light 1 Pin 4 = Airbag light 2 Pin 5 = Serial data from combination meter Pin 6 = GND Pin 7 = Key (no wire/pin) Pin 8 = +12V IGN Pin 9 = +12V ACC Pin 10 = +12V Battery (Always On) Hope that helps.

If you don't want the trip computer, you can unplug it altogether. The only side effect is that your airbag warning light will turn on because it can't display the passenger airbag status. I'm working on a way to defeat that, it looks to be pretty simple so far. There are lots of places to tap the ACC line. The 12V socket is technically ACC, the trip meter has ACC on pin 9 and IGN on pin 8. ACC and IGN is also available on the radio harness. As long as you're not planning to draw a lot of current from these lines, anyone of these will work. Actually, I made a clock relocation frame too for the ashtray but never used it. I should think about putting it up for sale.

I have the sedan but the basics should be the same... There is a wiring trench along the bottom edge of the doors. This trench exists on both sides of the car but it was practically empty on the passenger side. I ran a KVM cable on the passenger side with room to spare. You'll need to lift up the moulding that covers the edge of the carpet then also lift up the weathering strip. This will allow the carpet to lift up and expose the trench. The only thing to look out for is not to tug too hard on the moulding. Too much force could cause the moulding to fold and leave a crease. Use a screwdriver to lift it from the underside.

That looks really good so far. Would it make sense to us a lighter background to improve contrast during the day?

I've had no problems with my morex 80W surviving crank so far. It's one of the older models that has an external regulator block before feeding the main PSU. My shutdown controller senses both ACC and the IGN signal and controls the power button. For LCD, I feel transflective is the way to go if I could afford it too. The alternative to transflective is high brightness. Daylight readable requires between 800-1200nits from what I've read. This brightness level will surely generate more heat than I'd like. Not to mention 600nits is the best we can buy on the market now. Transflective does not generate more heat so that's ideal IMO. But one thing I'm going to try is to add a gel material between the touchscreen and the LCD. This eliminates a layer of air that reduces contrast and causes unnecessary refractions. I'm running RoadRunner now and I like it a lot. I still need to make a new skin since I'm running Copilot which doesn't integrate in RR well. It'll take some time, the SW tweaking is more time consuming that the HW. Finally, for car monitoring I'm using ecuExplorer and trying out ECUedit. Both will interface with SSM protocol with a tatrix cable. The is also a Java JDash app that looks very configurable.

Hey guys, Just posted my install on MP3car: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/106901-2005-legacy-gt-w-nano-itx-installed.html Still sorting out some ground loop issues and haven't added my DVD drive yet. But I'm about to start another project to decode data from the driver info display. Keep you guys posted.

Mine has been doing the same thing recently. I'm planning to rip it out and see if I can rebuild/grease it.

Can someone add the JDM Spec B. bumper and grille part #? I've found all other part # except the bumper itself.