IwannaSportSedan

Subscribed... Good to see it still includes SVX parts, as well!

A lot of the individual choices are more rare than the ~500 unit spec B.

I saw a RBP 2005 GT Wagon in Des Moines about 8-10 months ago, on gold OZ wheels... But I am not sure if it was a MT or Limited... I only saw the back of the car, as I followed along the same street for a little while. I had just bought a saw from sears, and couldn't fit the box into the trunk, so it was in the back seat... I was really diggin' the wagon that day, trying to convince my wife, who hates wagons, categorically.

The only combo that I would like as much or more than my similar configuration in Garnet Red... Regal Blue was very nice. I have no idea why it was canned, a lot of the new cars, like hyundai genesis are coming with a dark blue paint choice...

I have been on a tear about EG33 engine info... I got a splinter in my brain to mentally plan out an EG33 twin turbocharged mid-engined car. All of the information that I get about EG33 engine swaps is that they can be done, but it takes some fabrication to fit them into any other Subaru engine bay, aside from the SVX. The Legacy and Impreza engine bays are shorter, and the crank pulleys try to occupy the same space as the radiator, when the longer EG33 engine is used. Some folks have re-located the radiator a few inches forward with pusher fans, instead of pullers. But that is a lot of work when an EJ-series turbo 4 fits right away, and makes as much power as a normal EG33.

I am kind of curious about that myself. I am debating whether I should hook up a Jazzy kit, or get an XtremeMac inCharge FM modulator. I'd get a Parrot, or whatever, phone/music stereo-bluetooth kit, if the iPhone would broadcast A2DP stereo bluetooth in iPod mode, and switch over to phone calls on the fly. Then all I would need is the power cord I already have. But, sadly, as of now, Apple shuts off the stereo bluetooth feature, and only does monaural for phone headsets, not stereo headphones for the iPod function. (the single, most puzzling, and biggest failure of an otherwise AMAZING device.) The advantage with the FM modulator, is that I could use it in my wife's car, or any car I happen to be riding in, and have it along. The Jazzy Kit probably has better sound by far, and is somewhat customizable on the input side, depending on how built-in you want to make it. One could leave a 1/8" headphone jack, and use a belkin car charger adapter with a gain-adjustable Aux OUT, a short 1/8 male to male jumper to connect them. (assuming that the signal comes through. I've got an old one, I should test that with my new iPhone...) Or, one could get a dock connector cable, with bare wire ends, and wire/solder/via-molex-plug it in to the Aux Power point in the console, and into plugs that go into the jazzy kit/GLI input, and is all under the console, with just a fixed, powered, aux-out dock-connector cable that goes directly into the upholstery, and into the stereo. (center box, or glove box, or wherever you choose for the cable to come from) That would have the effect of not having an authentication problem with the accessory-identification system in the newer iPods and iPhone. Sometimes that can allow things to work by not triggering the device to shut-down the aux-out lines, or the iPhone might be set to only OPEN the aux-out audio lines for authenticated devices... I would hope the former, not the latter, were true. Somebody on an apple forum fabricated a microphone-to-line-in custom device for the iPod Touch, and it actually worked, because it didn't try to authenticate at all, where "official accessory" dictation microphone inputs for older iPods did NOT work, when the input lines were closed by the iPod. Granted, the fabricator was trying to put a microphone on the iPod Touch to turn it into a VOIP phone, with a microphone, and the headphones as a speaker-side, which is probably EXACTLY why Apple chose to have the iPod Touch shut identified microphone accessories down. The same might work for an un-official aux-out cable for the iPhone, allowing aux-out, although some official accessories do use aux-out from the iPhone, too.

Wow. I figured there were more than 190 other GRP GT Limited Sedans with black interiors and manual transmissions. 1 of 191, and probably toward the beginning of that number, as the early side of 2005MY.

Des Moines Sighting today. A gorgeous Regal Blue Pearl 2.5GT Wagon, lowered on gold OZ Superleggeras, or something similar, with tinted windows. Clean, despite the over-abundance of grime on the roads. I saw you on University, around 86th street at about 5:30pm tonight, and followed you until you turned off at 73rd street. I was driving the garnet red sedan behind you, that was very grimy, lowered, tinted, but on stock wheels and snow tires. Gotta say that was a HAWT lookin' wagon, especially in Regal Blue. I had a new compound miter saw in the back seat, because it wouldn't fit through the trunk opening. I was really diggin' the wagon for more than just the looks.

How does a newport blue pearl car have a black interior? Newport is also not a 2005 color. Atlantic Blue Pearl is very close, and Regal blue is MUCH darker. 2005 had the option to choose the interior color. Newport Blue replaced Atlantic and Regal blues on the GT for 2007, and was only available with taupe interior. That is when the dark gray color arrived, and Garnet red departed as well. Buy the car with the black interior, and swap the interior with someone who WANTs black interior... there are some that don't like the taupe.

Looks great, mang! You need a K2 rear lip spoiler, like CreoSTI has. I so wish I had a spoilerless trunk, so that I could do that.

damn. I am still jealous. freakin' wrong color rotas. That aside, the car is looking fantastic. Lower it, a bit of tint, and you are golden.

Recent Iowa sightings... A couple weeks ago... You were driving an 07 Diamond Gray Spec B north from Lincoln Center on Grand Avenue in Ames, IA, ~11:30am, IIRC. I was on your left, waiting at the stop light, headed east. Last friday, April 13th, possibly thursday, the 12th... You were driving an Atlantic or Newport Blue Pearl GT eastbound on Lincoln way in Ames, IA just east of South Dakota Avenue, I was headed westbound, about 5:30pm or so. Sunday, April 15th, you were driving a Satin White Pearl Legacy GT westbound/south on US Highway 30, headed out of Woodbine, IA, toward Logan, Missouri Valley, I29, or Blair, NE. I was headed the opposite direction. This is ironic, because I saw fewer than three Legacy GTs on the street the entire 2 years I was waiting and saving to buy one... I've seen three in the last couple weeks, and another today, Mocny, who I actually flagged down, and met with for a few minutes today. The only others I remember are a silver LGT in Des Moines, in December or early January, around the 100th street area, and World Market store; also about a year and a half ago, a Regal Blue Pearl Legacy GT on one occaision, in Boone, IA, and a lady driving a Satin White Pearl Legacy GT in Fremont, NE, at the local Wal-Mart store. One Regal Blue Legacy 2.5i was once parked near my parent's house, in Stanton, IA, in front of the large church there, about a year or so ago. The last three were before I purchased a Legacy myself, so I was not in one, of course.

Damn. Those wheels should be mine! I was || that close to buying those. Instead, I went with Modacar who said they had those with gunmetal paint, with the polished face, so I ordered those, instead of Mach V's Full Royal Steel grey. Man, YOU got the upper hand this time. I've been HAD. FRICK! Seriously, though... Congrats, man. They look great.

those wheels are going to look hot. tint the windows, black out the headlights, lower the suspension, remove the chrome strip, and change the wheels to gunmetallic shadow, (and obviously not the same license plate...) and that would be very close to my car. so not exactly the same, then... but your car still looks hawt.

Are you cyber-stalking me, man??? Tarmac IIs... Have you been stealing ideas from my poll thread??? GRP and with black and chrome trim... That is why I am leaning toward Tarmac IIs in full royal gunmetal. 18x7.5 for me, though. I have even contemplated the chrome rocker panels, to go to the GRO-pseudo-Spec B look. Completely agree about the spoke curvature. The dropped hub center is pretty slick, too, especially with the polished face. I am not considering P1s or Tarmac 3s, or any others that the spokes recurve toward the center of the rim. Spokes to the tire bead FTW... first ones with wheels and tires mounted must post pictures in the other's thread...

funny... I like the black ones... although I don't want to abandon the body colored ones altogether, so I am going to keep them, as well, if I can find another set.

Anybody have experience with General Exclaim UHP? It could be a cheap immitator, or the biggest bargain to come along in quite a while. Tire Rack reviews are very positive, stats are comparable with good tires, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone around here has them.

I'd be tempted to try stacking a set of fogs and driving lights into a bumper with more open space on the sides, like the Liberal Albero, K2 Riez, or Gialla bumper covers... but that is an expensive proposition for re-styling and configuring the whole front end... But it would be nice to have a pair of round fogs, and another pair of round driving lights, even HID ones... Maybe even something like Hella DE units, or Narva round fixtures. Fogs on the foglight switch for parking and low beams, and driving lights on a separate switch with the high-beams, or even independent from the rest of the lighting altogether. Otherwise there is precious little real estate on the front of the Legacy, without getting into blocking the grille or lower intake for cooling. Not even really that much on the Outback, either, just a bigger round hole on each side.

DON'T take the headlights out. Undo the pop-its from the wheel well liner. any of them from the axle line forward, and pull the wheel well liner out a bit, so you can reach behind it. there is at least a couple under the front apron area. be careful not to break them, although if you have some extra pop-its, some stubborn ones it is easier to just break off, and pull out. With some nimble fingerwork, and some patience, you can rotate and pull the indicator socket out, and pull the bulb out of it... you may want to hold the bulb in a certain orientation as you bring it out of the wheel well area, and note which side of the bulb the writing is on that says what bulb number it is. do the same for the bulb you are putting in, because it will be blind work when you put it back. you may want to test to make sure they work correctly before you button the wheel well liner back in on each side. I did it (with silverstar indicator bulbs) while I was changing oil and tires over for the winter, which gave me a lot more room to work, with the car on jack stands, and the front wheels off already. A low-beam headlight bulb went out the other day while I was on a trip to see relatives for thanksgiving. I bought a single wagner h7(all they had of ANY kind of h7), which does not match the other bulb. (the ones installed are VERY blue.) But tonight, I am going to stop by the auto parts store, and grab a pair of H7 silverstars, and keep the new wagner as a spare in the car. I am kind of dissappointed that the new Silverstar Ultras, which are supposedly both brighter, and more robust for longer life, are not offered in an h7. only the 900x series bulbs so far. Oh, well. if the Silverstars burn out in the near future, I may have saved up for a HID optic retrofit, anyway.

Ok.... funny... I have Hawg-tastic gutted downpipe on my car too, but the clutch remains. A bit more context... it is a slight annoyance, and I wish it were not the case, and eventually it will probably be replaced sometime. But over all, it is a small issue. these cars are FAN-TASTIC! GRP for the WIN, too!

I don't know that I would leave break-in oil in the crank-case that long. Break in involves seating wear, and any material being removed will go into the oil and the oil filter. I'd change out the oil sometime after break-in period, fill again with mineral-based oil, and wait until at least the 7500 mile oil change at the earliest to change to synthetic, if you plan to. but, that is just me. I have a cobb Double-adjustable shifter, which was put in by the previous owner, subastyle. I do like it. It also has the STI short shifter option from the factory, so there is some conjecture that the shift linkage may be different than standard, but there is some consensus that it is the same. The knob is a bit lower than I have seen on other Legacys in person and pictures, but the shift throw is very short. it is still a little loose on the fulcrum point (the axle pivot of the shift lever.) I have the original shifter, and the plastic bushings that are inserted there... I am debating whether I should take that apart, and put those plastic bushes into the cobb lever, to firm it up a bit. (assuming they will fit.) The shift action seems smooth enough, it is the lever that seems loose. And there is a real break-over to engage the gears. That and the clutch on my car is starting to suck, and isn't fully dissengaging, because I am grinding second gear for a split-instant more often than I ever have in any other MT car. The bushings that cobb and kartboy sell, I believe, go into the shift linkage, under the car, not at the lever fulcrum point, but I could be wrong, as I haven't dug into that yet. -Brotherhood of GRP Legacy GT owners. Gotta Stick together!

I think they used to use coolant to lubricate the water pump, but, I am not sure that is so common anymore. with plastic impellers and sealed lifetime-lubed bearings, I am not sure it is as much of an issue anymore. But I could be wrong... and plain water is a decent lubricant, with a lot of film strength and surface tension, especially as long as it is clean. It isn't oil, but I am not sure you want to be adding that to your coolant.

You can buy distilled water by the gallon at most grocery stores. You might also try parking on an incline, so that the coolant runs toward the radiator drain. You can also pull the lower radiator hose and try to drain it that way. (I haven't looked at how difficult that might be...) You might also check the vacation pics, and see if there is a listed procedure for changing the coolant. If you are flushing the system with clean distilled water, you probably don't need to worry about every last fraction of an ounce, anyway. it will dilute into the new clean coolant, and probably won't affect the antifreeze concentration much at all.

yup. that thing is not at the bottom of the ocean, but at the top. check your antifreeze, if you don't want his little brother in your engine!