Reliability Modifications

[SubOperator]

A lot of folks here seem to be asking the same questions, but in the wrong way. Questions seem to include bashing of the '05 model year, bashing of stock turbos, oil lines, blah blah blah, but all are asking what to do to increase reliability of the LGT drivetrain+.

 

I'm interested in putting together a list of "reliability modifications" for LGTs. I'll start off, please chime in and I'll change the original post to reflect input.

 

 

1. Remove cat from up pipe, if necessary (05/06 model years included cat in up pipe)
   
   • Any up pipe that fits an 02-11 STI will fit your 05-09 LGT
     

 

[*]Install upgraded oil lines (Infamous products recommended by many)

[*]KillerB oil pickup to prevent starvation

[*]Check/top off engine oil on every fill up. (yes, this is a 'mod'. if you don't do this you won't get much sympathy when your turbo dies due to oil starvation. these engines eat oil, get used to it)

• Do an oil analysis (i.e. Blackstone) once you settle on an oil/filter combination that works for you. Should confirm that you OCI is adequate.
  

 

[*]For those with automatic transmissions, drain/refill transmission fluid every 15k miles...seriously, it costs $4 for the proper bit and $30 for the fluid every 15k miles, not that big a deal. do it.

[*]Let your engine/oil/other fluids warm up before you race a civic. for rationale please see notes from #4. it's a mod, don't be a 'tard.

[*]Disconnect DRLs to prevent shortened headlight lifespan

[*]...

let the fun begin.

 

Have items in bold done. I reconnected DRLs back after I pulled the HIDs out (my eyes have problems with really bright light HIDs provide). I believe DRLs were blamed due to OEM bulbs inferior quality - I also had both of Phillips OEM H7s go within a year. I used OSRAM Rally and loved them. I keep DRLs on just for safety.

Also, while on lights, replace the OEM high-beam bulb with some HIR2 bulbs - the difference is out of this world, even though this is not reliability mod.

 

One thing I would add is replacing belts periodically, say alternator and accessory belts every 60K and timing belt every 100K the latest. The engine makes all kinds of weird noises that people have trouble identifying correctly (just search for "ticking sound") and engine runs much better after stretched timing belt is replaced. That thing is enormously long on boxers, who knows how much the angles on opposite camshafts are off with old stretched timing belt.

[Nrw]

Where's Rao at? I he had a list of all the problems area with these cars. I think he had a write up on how to keep these things from falling apart.

[SubOperator]

Where's Rao at? I he had a list of all the problems area with these cars. I think he had a write up on how to keep these things from falling apart.

 

afaik his summary was "Don't drive it".

[bmx045]

Fuel line inspection. They appear to crack

 

what? no.

[BigTDogg MA]

I'd add:

 

 

• Flush brake fluid every 2 years on a street driven car, once a year on an occasionally tracked car.
  
• Clean air filter and MAF every oil change, replace per FMS if using OEM.
  

For the DRLs, I disabled mine so I could run HIDs. I also wired my fogs so they work with parking lights, so I use them as my DRLs if the conditions warrant it. The 05-06 DRL is dangerous IMHO, saw a 2.5 owner driving at 7pm with just DRLs on. Tough to tell with the illuminated dash.

 

 

I think DRLs are some of those idiot functions car companies are adding in now. I'd like to see one where they give the driver a small electrical shock when they change lanes without signaling. The more expensive the car, the bigger the shock. So the asshole that cut me off this morning in a CLS63 would have had is ass fried.

[SSpeed]

The ones above the motor. Known issue. Tends to happen below 30f. You'll smell the fuel. No way to miss it. About $500 out of pocket.

 

Known issue huh? Known to whom? Show me...

[bmx045]

this is unknown to me, they usually clamp it

[Max Capacity]

Known issue huh? Known to whom? Show me...

 

Oh come on now where have you been the past two weeks.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/we-smell-gas-177524.html

 

or two or three years for that matter...

[bmx045]

stupid

[CapnJack]

Oh come on now where have you been the past two weeks.

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/we-smell-gas-177524.html

 

or two or three years for that matter...

 

 

Thanks! I've been smelling gas in my garage for the past three weeks. I thought maybe one of my snowblowers had a leaky float bowl. This points in a different direction.

[Max Capacity]

Welcome, I have posted pictures and also sent them to Subaru. It's the line right behind the oil fill tube, inboard of the intake manifold

[CapnJack]

Welcome, I have posted pictures and also sent them to Subaru. It's the line right behind the oil fill tube, inboard of the intake manifold

 

Where can I find the pics? Any search terms that would get me there?

[BarManBean]

OP updated. may have missed some things tho'.

[Max Capacity]

Where can I find the pics? Any search terms that would get me there?

 

I thought I put them in the current We smell gas thread.

 

If I remember to when I get home, I'll post them here again. I lockwired the hose on either side of the clamp and that stopped mine from leaking.

 

Check post 28 in this thread

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/fix-report-gas-smell-again-whine-start-up-154233.html?t=154233&highlight=gas+smell

 

And my photo in post 29

[Berzerklo]

I was just reading a thread on anther forum about ringland issues.

 

The general consensus seemed to be they are a fact of life with Subarus, and there does not seem to be a whole lot you can do about it. Some ideas thrown out to help were gas quality, getting a tune besides OEM, and not redlining the motor.

 

Anyone here have experience with ringland failure?

[bmx045]

Well, in reality, keeping a proper AFR and keeping the boost below 24psi is what helps prevent ringland failure. If you're leaning out and/or knocking and/or high EGT's, you're certainly accelerating the chances of ringland failure.

 

Rich side AFR, 11.1-11.7, boosts preferably 20-22psi, and of course proper oiling.

[Mickeytl]

Where is the DRL plug located? I have hid kit , but don't really need the DRL...let me know.

[rob-2]

I'd add:

 

 

• Flush brake fluid every 2 years on a street driven car, once a year on an occasionally tracked car.
  
• Clean air filter and MAF every oil change, replace per FMS if using OEM.
  

For the DRLs, I disabled mine so I could run HIDs. I also wired my fogs so they work with parking lights, so I use them as my DRLs if the conditions warrant it. The 05-06 DRL is dangerous IMHO, saw a 2.5 owner driving at 7pm with just DRLs on. Tough to tell with the illuminated dash.

 

 

I think DRLs are some of those idiot functions car companies are adding in now. I'd like to see one where they give the driver a small electrical shock when they change lanes without signaling. The more expensive the car, the bigger the shock. So the asshole that cut me off this morning in a CLS63 would have had is ass fried.

Running DRL's reduces accident rates by 11%. It's the cheapest safety feature a car company can add.

 

How subi did it in our years wasn't helpful to bulb life. Other cars I've driven had a low/high beam DRL's. Using the night lights instead was a bad design.

[Nrw]

Where is the DRL plug located? I have hid kit , but don't really need the DRL...let me know.

 

 

 

http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/drl-disable-10-minutes-2117.html

[BigTDogg MA]

Running DRL's reduces accident rates by 11%. It's the cheapest safety feature a car company can add.

 

How subi did it in our years wasn't helpful to bulb life. Other cars I've driven had a low/high beam DRL's. Using the night lights instead was a bad design.

 

First part, I don't doubt it. But what you've stated in your second part is one of two major design flaws of the 4th gen, IMHO. The second being the HU/HVAC combo.

 

Additionally, if a car is equipped with DRLs, IMHO it should also have automatic photosensitive headlights.

[Mickeytl]

I found it...just disconnected the DRL today.

[Diehard]

1. Disconnect DRLs to prevent shortened headlight lifespan
   

 

Something random to note on this

 

Ive noticed a lot of people that have problems with only one light in particular, or one that keeps burning out after being replaced.

 

Make sure you you don't handle / install the bulb with your fingers. If you get oils from your hands onto the bulb, it will heat up more than the glass and overheat the bulb causing it to burn out.. Sometimes when they are installed in the plant, random ones may have been handled which can cause bulbs to burn out early

 

if you do handle them just make sure to wipe them down really good so that there's no more oil from your fingers on them

 

the lightbulbs in cars get a lot hotter than the standard ones you use in your home, so they are more affected by touching them than regular lightbulbs

[zepplinluvr2]

Want your turbo to last as long as your motor. In short, check you oil level often & top as needed. Use whatever oil & filter that will protect for the OCI's your running. OA's is the only way you know that your oil & filter is up for the challenge. After that IMO no OA's are needed.

 

Mike

 

What are OA's? What are OCI's?

[zepplinluvr2]

what does remove cat from up pipe mean? I"m a noob...help me out.

[heiche]

What are OA's? What are OCI's?

 

OA = Oil Analysis

OCI = Oil Change Interval

 

2005/2006 LGTs had a catted Up Pipe, meaning there was a small catalytic converter upstream from the turbo (between exhaust manifolds and turbo). This will rob a little power, and more importantly, if it breaks apart it will send chunks of catalytic badness right into the turbo's impeller blades - not good