GTEASER Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 I'll check that also, thanks Joe. One would think that the dealer checked that, but logic never really applies in that case. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted May 26, 2015 Share Posted May 26, 2015 One would think that the dealer checked that, but logic never really applies in that case. One would think I would check that as well, but since the sound wasn't coming from that area, I obviously didn't think to check the obvious haha. Hopefully this is the case and everyone can go about their day My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 So, I checked the top nut that holds the strut to the top hat. Loose by 2 full revolutions!? Seems i was both overthinking and under thinking this issue at the same time. Checked the left side and it was loose by 1/4 turn. Thanks Joe for pointing me in the right direction. I feel like a fool now lol My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Since the tophat is rubber it insulates that nut from the chassis. The sound is transmitted down thru the hard steel of the strut and sounds lower than the location of the actual problem. GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 If you're ever in my area, or I'm in yours, I owe you something Joe haha. Were you still interested in my fogless bezels? I'd be happy to ship em out to you My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GTEASER Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 (edited) No worries Di. I have a set. Just pass on the good Karma. Edited May 27, 2015 by GTEASER GTEASER's 2012 Legacy GT - Sold GTEASER's 2009 XTeaser - Sold GTEASER's 1992 Legacy SS - Sold Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 So glad Joe helped Zee with his nuts... now I can go about my day.:lol::lol::lol: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 ^Just one nut, I did the other one to make sure they were balanced hahahaha My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Gotta make sure the are both under the same pressure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 Gotta make sure the are both under the same pressure. I torqued em to spec with my torque wrench. Thought I did so when they were initially installed, but i guess I forgot to double check after finishing the job. My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I've autox'ed and tracked on stock end links with a 22mm WL RSB without issue. Im going to put my money toward other mods. Until I have an issue or they just plain old wear out, I will keep running them, and probably replace them with OEM or Moog OEM replacements. I just had my 22mm WL RSB installed and I'm getting i bit of a... i don't want to say rattle, but maybe more like a vibration noise. it sound like the sway bar is touching the body every so often. the mechanic told me it was tough trying to save the end links, since VT is the place suspensions go to die, and that the way it is installed the endlinks are not sitting vertical anymore. I'm thinking about going with the white line adjustable end links to try to get rid of this rattle to try and "place" the bar better. can anybody confirm or deny this may fix my problem? it's raining now but maybe tomorrow I'll jack it up and try to get some pictures to help find this freakin noise. also I heard this bar was really designed for the WRX and in our cars it's installed upside down. but which way is right side up? thanks for any help in advance Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I torqued em to spec with my torque wrench. Thought I did so when they were initially installed, but i guess I forgot to double check after finishing the job. LoL you took that way to literally. You're nuts, I meant. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zee199969 Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 LoL you took that way to literally. You're nuts, I meant. I was thinking that a few minutes after posting My "Build" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted May 27, 2015 Share Posted May 27, 2015 I just had my 22mm WL RSB installed and I'm getting i bit of a... i don't want to say rattle, but maybe more like a vibration noise. it sound like the sway bar is touching the body every so often. the mechanic told me it was tough trying to save the end links, since VT is the place suspensions go to die, and that the way it is installed the endlinks are not sitting vertical anymore. I'm thinking about going with the white line adjustable end links to try to get rid of this rattle to try and "place" the bar better. can anybody confirm or deny this may fix my problem? it's raining now but maybe tomorrow I'll jack it up and try to get some pictures to help find this freakin noise. also I heard this bar was really designed for the WRX and in our cars it's installed upside down. but which way is right side up? thanks for any help in advance I had the same problem, and it was the sway bar touching the spare tire tub. I flipped the bar around so the dip goes down instead of up and problem solved. Endlinks don't need to be vertical. I have mine on the '23mm' setting and they are angled even more. Works fine and that's even more stress on them, however I am not lowered. A hack saw and welder could fix that anyway... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 I'm at stock ride height as well. I'll have a look under this bad boy tomorrow and if its as simple as flipping the bars i think the shop will do it for free since they put it in upside down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 Why you no do it yourself? I flipped mine in like 20 minutes. Put the car up on jack stands, take off the right rear wheel, unbolt the two endlinks from the bar, unbolt the brackets holding the bar to the car, and iust slides right out the right side. Flip and return. i didn't even move off my back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted May 28, 2015 Share Posted May 28, 2015 (edited) Why you no do it yourself? I flipped mine in like 20 minutes. Put the car up on jack stands, take off the right rear wheel, unbolt the two endlinks from the bar, unbolt the brackets holding the bar to the car, and iust slides right out the right side. Flip and return. i didn't even move off my back. I was under the impression that you need the weight to be on the wheels to remove the bar? too late now anyways since i already paid to get it in and they will flip it for free (well for already being payed) I'm going to get the beefy endlinks from white line because tax return... tho they are twice as expensive as the moogs Edited May 28, 2015 by ripstik Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 I was under the impression that you need the weight to be on the wheels to remove the bar? too late now anyways since i already paid to get it in and they will flip it for free (well for already being payed) I'm going to get the beefy endlinks from white line because tax return... tho they are twice as expensive as the moogs Beef? the Kartboys are 100% angus. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted May 29, 2015 Share Posted May 29, 2015 Beef? the Kartboys are 100% angus. your right those things are the definition of beefy... but for about the same price i think I'll go with the adjustable ones just in case i get in to oval trackin.... hahahaha yeah right Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I can't remember but did anyone purchase the racecomps ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brandon.mol Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 I was under the impression that you need the weight to be on the wheels to remove the bar? Nope. Either weight on both, or weight on neither. Don't want any twist in the bar when you unbolt it, otherwise it will go snakey all over your face Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bran808 Posted June 2, 2015 Share Posted June 2, 2015 Finally got my Feal 441's installed this past week. Had them done same time as my Whiteline 22mm adjustable rear sway bar and braces. The jury is still out as it's only be less than 100 miles on them, but so far I'm pretty happy with the feel of the Feal's. The ride is pretty firm, without being bouncy, even as almost the lowest setting, but still quite comfortable. I just need to play around with the dampening and dial in the ride height. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ripstik Posted June 3, 2015 Share Posted June 3, 2015 I was under the impression that you need the weight to be on the wheels to remove the bar? Nope. Either weight on both, or weight on neither. Don't want any twist in the bar when you unbolt it, otherwise it will go snakey all over your face I found where i got (a poorly remembered) that from. its when you are adjusting the lengths on the end links that you need weight on the wheels so you can see how vertical the link is in it operating position Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
s2baru Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 K so im needing some help from you gurus...my street basis are 392lbsin front / 280lbsin rear how big of a difference is a working rate of 455 Front and 290 Rear in a progressive setup??? What would I expect to see in the difference of how my car would handle? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fredrik94087 Posted July 1, 2015 Share Posted July 1, 2015 are the street basis linear? If so, it may just end up a bit more forgiving over bumps. If not, you will notice a smidge of stiffness compared to before. But that is a lot of spring in the front vs the rear...150#. Most setups have a 50# difference F/R. And, I guess the street basis were 100# different. You will end up "pushing" the fronts more. "It's within spec" - SOA "Depth is only shallowness viewed from the side." - Fredism "So, how much did it cost for your car to be undriveable ." - Stephen (very close friend) "You have done so much it would be stupid to go back." - Sunny of Guru Electronics 2018Q50RS | 2015WrxThread | Shrek Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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