Valve Body Mods, Giant Leaps Forward!!!

[hadvw]

Would you even want such a thing? I still can't understand why people buy them...

 

1) wanting a sporty car

2) traffic, lots and lots of traffic to/from work

[eldrego]

1) wanting a sporty car

2) traffic, lots and lots of traffic to/from work

 

^This!^

[ClimberDHexMods]

Because if/when I buy a dedicated sports car with MT box, it sure as heck won't be an LGT, or a Subaru for that matter. Been eyeballing a Porsche Cayman 6mt. LGT is good fun, but lots of us have to live with them every day, etc. To each his own. Anyways, wrong thread.

[seabass07]

And cuz my wife burns the shit out of clutches!

[m sprank]

Because I was lazy and working in NYC. I knew darn well I would smoke 2 clutches a year freaking out in traffic. Second I got back to Cali, I bought a SpecB and gave the 5EAT to the wife. Lol. Then proceeded to blow it up continuing to mod it.

 

Sign of addiction.

[fahr_side]

Because I was lazy and working in NYC. I knew darn well I would smoke 2 clutches a year freaking out in traffic. Second I got back to Cali, I bought a SpecB and gave the 5EAT to the wife. Lol. Then proceeded to blow it up continuing to mod it.

 

Mike, you do realize I'm (successfully) yanking your chain eh? I really don't care which transmission you bought. 5th gen 2.5GT 5EAT sells well in other markets, but I guess not well enough in the US to warrant selling and supporting them. Hell, there are places in the world where you can only get the car with the auto, and no 6MT option.

 

Your story with the blown trans just on a 16G has me worried enough about my friend's car that I don't want to tune him on a bigger turbo. Since we don't know where the limit is, I don't really want to get into this dance with the devil, turning down boost in the midrange to keep the clutch packs alive. He can wait until ClimberD cracks the '08~ trans.

[cstechie]

Happy Anniversary! (to this thread) To celebrate, I ordered a VB from ClimberD! Installation this weekend.

[m sprank]

Mike, you do realize I'm (successfully) yanking your chain eh? I really don't care which transmission you bought. 5th gen 2.5GT 5EAT sells well in other markets, but I guess not well enough in the US to warrant selling and supporting them. Hell, there are places in the world where you can only get the car with the auto, and no 6MT option.

 

Your story with the blown trans just on a 16G has me worried enough about my friend's car that I don't want to tune him on a bigger turbo. Since we don't know where the limit is, I don't really want to get into this dance with the devil, turning down boost in the midrange to keep the clutch packs alive. He can wait until ClimberD cracks the '08~ trans.

 

If not for NYC, I would not still own a 5EAT. I brought the 05 5EAT from Cali to NY and the wife drove it there for a year (I specifically brought a 5EAT to NY for the wife who had never drivin in snow). I bought another (frustratingly because I had actually never owned an A/T as a DD) and have tried to make the best of it. I sold the 05 prior to leaving NY (kinda wish I had kept it and ditched the 08, come on Climber, Lol).

 

It was the low end torque that did in my 08 5EAT. I too will be moving to a larger, later hitting turbo to avoid a second "boom".

[LegacySleeper]

Quick question for david, or anyone who can accurately confidently answer this. Last time we spoke on the phone it was about my trans temp and gauge. I have the temp sender running in the fluid coming BACK from the mishimoto trans cooler i have, so i'm expecting it to be a little bit cooler than actual trans temp...

 

My question is it takes a good 20 minutes of easy daily driving before i reach 150, which you said is the LEAST it should be at for the best health concern of my transmission... I have been doing a-lot of driving below 150, mainly at 120-130.... Now you told me that it being too hot is not the only thing i need to worry about, not being hot enough could also cause damage.... How concerned should i be that i'm driving like this?

 

The good thing is, even when beating the shit out of it (which isn't frequently) it never goes above 185 and averages at 170, the combination of the trans cooler i have and the valve body is great, i wish i had the option of turning my cooler on and off so i can reach 150 easier

Thanks

[ClimberDHexMods]

How quick does it warm up without the cooler? There's a bypass thermostat on SummitRacing by Derale. Will solve the problem. How is your cooler plumbed? Before the radiator? Which type of cooler?

[LegacySleeper]

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51EUF0iddHL._SL500_AA300_.jpg

 

this mishimoto trans cooler^^^^, it came with a fan, but i didnt mount it for 1, i got it installed in the winter, and it'd be cooling overkill, and for 2 i didnt want to have to pay for labor to get the on/off switch installed, reccomended by shop, which they said they installed for some other trans cooler installs with fans other customers got.

 

before the radiator i believe, i am stoppin up at my local shop tomorrow, ill double check about that question

 

i couldn't accurately answer how fast does it warm up without it, because i only had my trans temp gauge installed after the trans temp cooler being installed, why exactly do you ask how fast without it? and how necessary would it be to get that bypass? is this something of great concern?

Edited April 24, 2012 by LegacySleeper

[ClimberDHexMods]

I do not know the answer to whether it is of concern or not. I also never said it would cause damage if fluid is too cold for too long. My temp suggestions were guidelines.

Your setup formula is: ATF out - cooler + radiator = gauge temp. If you get into a situation where the coolant in the radiator gets cool because the thermostat is not open a lot, then you're going to get cooler ATF cruising temps, and your cooler will make it colder still. This and warmup is when a thermostat would help you.

 

I don't run a cooler. But if I were to, I would do what you did: measure resultant temp. I would also check the temps inside the trans via FreeSSM, and see what the difference is from your gauge, so you will better know what your gauge represents. If of concern after that, I would compare to temp without the cooler. You will need to loop out the cooler to do this, or try to block it with cardboard or something like that.

 

From there, if through testing it turned out that a smaller cooler would be better, I would be happy to not have to spend money on a thermostat. But if a thermostat was necessary, I would buy it. In that order.

 

Since I have not run a cooler, I have not tested to find the right setup. I am convinced the "consensus" is wrong on this site regarding how to setup a cooler. I believe you're on the right track. It may turn out your cooler is better suited for a race car or a F350, or it may turn out that you check the internal trans temps and they're pretty much fine. Do some temp watching and see what you get.

 

Side note, cold fluid can make F1 shifts slam. If I was getting cold slamming for longer than a couple minutes, and I had a cooler, I wouldn't put up with it.

[LegacySleeper]

I could have sworn you told me that over cooling was not a good thing, and cold temperatures were not good as was too hot.

 

And yes, i have noticed that it slams right out of my driveway, but it really only happens the first few shifts and after that its perfectly usual feeling.

 

But thanks again!

[triple_B]

im going to take a stab at this to help cause i have all the info but not on me right now.

i installed a temp gauge and two sending units prior to doing this VB mod. one temp sending unit prior to the radiator and one post (both where the hard lines meet the rubber lines).

i did this for a week in seattle mild march weather. i want to say it was 190 post radiator and 210 prior for mild stop and go at say 40mph.

if i were to WOT up a hill at 60mph+ it would go to 220 then plumit to 175 once back to cruising. if i got stopped at a light for 3 mins cold would go to 200 and if i parked cold would go 210, while hot was 230.

i wired both sending units to a 3 way switch so i can read hot, off, cold.

 

once i modded the VB i moved the temp sending units to pre radiator (hot off the trans) and post trans cooler which is post radiator (oh so cool).

 

i now run 160 cold return to trans and 170 hot off trans in normal 45mph. i can still get it to spike while at WOT but its quick and only to 200, even while parked.

 

on the track it stays at 160 cold and to 285 on hot. all day long. raining/sun and 50 degrees.

 

ill find out if its too much of a temp differential. though, i dont know how....so i guess i wont. but it ran great on the track and is smooth on the city streets.

on the track going 1st to 2nd and even 2nd to 3rd at WOT coming out of a corner the rear would break loose in slight wet. it was a blast!

 

Thanks David for the how to on the VB.

 

i also did the extra orange spring for i think 1st 2nd, like the KoukiS14 mentioned. its a fun punch in the neck.

 

and thanks to Seabass07 for the TCU reset the day after i modded. that was a bleasing. plus it confirmed my temp readings.

 

ill do a write up on the trans cooler and dual temp senders to one gauge.....soon.

 

im running a mix of Subaru ATF and valvoline synthetic (cause i ran out of Subaru cause it was a thirsty tranny). 110 miles of track and 250 miles on street.

Edited April 24, 2012 by triple_B

[ClimberDHexMods]

It would be great if we could take this to a trans cooler thread

[frank_ster]

over cooling simply causes the torq lock up to not actuate as often. because the trans wants to be around 180 deg. when at 180 or so the torque lockup kicks in sooner and is used in wot acceleration. thus making the car faster and moreeffecient

[bmx045]

over cooling simply causes the torq lock up to not actuate as often. because the trans wants to be around 180 deg. when at 180 or so the torque lockup kicks in sooner and is used in wot acceleration. thus making the car faster and moreeffecient

 

 

I concur, I wonder if the pre/post atf cooler posts are still around in the 5eat pride thread...... the torque converter hated cool ATF, hated it. If I had to journey into forward thinking about the TC locking/unlocking itself continuously during WOT, over the years it would likely deteriorate the innerds of the TC. I've seen some 5eat TC's that are internally de-finned, if I had to guess it was because the car it was on was a low-end torque monster and the owner beat the hell out of it. Thus when the TC was unlocked, and the torque was applied before TC lock (~300ftlb before the TC lock up of 3300rpm), the viscous action of the TC innerds cause high high atf heat inside it.

[FUIAAE]

500$ Is cheaper than I've found this elsewhere.

 

Subscribed so then I hit the 350hp mark this fall I don't shred my tranny!

[scoobydoobie]

500$ Is cheaper than I've found this elsewhere.

 

Subscribed so then I hit the 350hp mark this fall I don't shred my tranny!

 

Where have you found this elsewhere?

 

Please don't say IPT.

[LegacySleeper]

 

ill do a write up on the trans cooler and dual temp senders to one gauge.....soon.

.

 

when you do, if you will, please pm me and alert me, like climberd said there should be a trans cooler thread, idk if there even is one.... i'm sure it'd be informative to a-lot of people like me.

[bmx045]

There is a trans cooler install thread. Google trans cooler install legacygt

[frank_ster]

I concur, I wonder if the pre/post atf cooler posts are still around in the 5eat pride thread...... the torque converter hated cool ATF, hated it. If I had to journey into forward thinking about the TC locking/unlocking itself continuously during WOT, over the years it would likely deteriorate the innerds of the TC. I've seen some 5eat TC's that are internally de-finned, if I had to guess it was because the car it was on was a low-end torque monster and the owner beat the hell out of it. Thus when the TC was unlocked, and the torque was applied before TC lock (~300ftlb before the TC lock up of 3300rpm), the viscous action of the TC innerds cause high high atf heat inside it.

 

 

its not that the torque converter hates it .. its the tcu that is managing it .

 

with aftermarket tcu control i would like to keep as cool as possible.

[FUIAAE]

Where have you found this elsewhere?

 

Please don't say IPT.

 

It was an east coast place recommended on RS and Nazicawck.

7xx for the valve body work.

[bmx045]

hmm

[SCASEYS]

please see that he is '01 4EATer