Catalyst

Thanks! I was just worried about putting too much and it squeezing into the cam area, drying, then breaking off in chunks to get lodged somewhere.

One more.. Likely tackling this tomorrow if I have time after doing the timing belt. Did you replace the half moon seals? I don't think they're leaking, should I just leave them alone? Also, how much RTV? Very thin bead?

The bolts I've taken off the radiator have stripped immediately. :/

Did you have to undo the exhaust (downpipe) in order to jack up the engine enough?

Stuck/frozen slide pins?

Done. Had to remove the strut bolts to swing the knuckle down to have room to blast then off with a 500 ft-lb impact. Car felt fantastic, so quiet. Cruise worked fine so far, fingers crossed. Used Timken's.

Just spent 7 hours working on both my fronts. Drivers side hub bolts broke free fairly "easily" but fought with the hub being seized onto the knuckle for an hour or two. Even with a hub puller, I ended up resorting to smacking the ever living shite out of it with a chisel. Passenger side, spent way too much time trying to get the rotor off without destroying it. 10mm bolts stripped immediately trying to pop it off. THEN, I only got 1 hub bolt off. The other 3 are seized something fierce. Let PB soak for an hour or two, wire brushed what I could of the ends sticking through, even heated with a torch. Not a budge. Coming back today with a more diesel impact gun and hope the PB worked its magic. The problem is the working space for those bolts. Can't get a breaker on them cause of the wheel well and the axle is in the way as well! Definitely budget a good chunk of time for this if your car has some good mileage on it. Mine has 221k.

You got dumped on Max? We got 18+ in Middletown.

It was clean.

Sounds exactly how my stock turbo went at ~170k. No CEL, just whirling noise with loss of power. Sorry :/

221k on 2nd turbo. Wheel bearings in front are shot. 2nd timing belt is due like yesterday plus water pump this time. Valve cover gasket passenger side has been leaking on uppipe, gotta get to that. Heater blower fan is whining - replace. Trans/diff fluid again soon. Check banjo bolt AGAIN!

I might just go with the Timken ones then..

What's the DA part number? Or what's the Amazon link.. Edit: never mind found it! What's the consensus on abs and cc for these DA ones though?

So after installing this cable again it turns out I may be upgrading to a iPhone 5. Because it has the digital only lightning port, can I use the apple 30 pin to lightning adapter with this? I've seen mixed reviews of that adapter not working correctly, as in not charging and playing music. Anyone using an iPhone 5 with this?

Thanks Jazzy for the reaponse. It's definetely not the fuse. I will order the cable on amazon. Thanks!

My iPhone connector (iSimple) that came with the kit had been working great until recently the charging part if the cable started to flicker on and off charging and now it won't charge at all. Playback has been fine, no cutting in or out. Can I just easily replace the cable? I haven't been able to find it online. Any help Jazzy?

Link? I've been searching all over, read through this thread and the other independent fog light thread :/

Is there a constant on or acc. fuse or wire to tap into that doesn't require me to go into the radio or trip display? I don't have a meter with me and I want to wire it so the fogs work independent of the parking lights (fogs only).

Are there seperate fuses for driver and passenger?

Yea, no marbles for me. Sounded like a vacuum leak or something whirling. No boost and no power.

$2500 for diagnose, new turbo, new banjo filter, new intake (they said it needed it for some reason, but I trust them), engine flush, warranty, and rental car. It's alot. But I didn't have the time or another car to use or a garage with tools. Makes me mad cause I know I could have gotten a better turbo (16g) with upgraded oil lines for easily half the cost. But, I'm not a mechanic and dont trust myself 100% with the install anyways. Plus, no warranty. :/

Mine just let go coming home from a 450 mile business trip. 5 miles from home cruising at ~70 mph started losing power. I was always good about checking oil and changing it. Never drove exceedingly hard. Thought I was good and one of the lucky ones because I had ~178k on it. Nope. I should of done a BNR 16g and oil lines as preventative a while ago. Would have been a whole lot less money than having the shop fix it. Wish I had the time and another car and the tools to replace the turbo myself. I don't even want to say how much the shop quoted me...

Ok... I had gotten totally soaked while standing out in torrential rain and had to get back in my car. Seat got SOAKED and stayed wet for days. Now my butt element doesn't work, but the element on my lower back does still. Did I fry something on the seat only? I just noticed there is a small bump under the cloth near the crease where the seat meets the back rest. Possible it's just fuses? Which fuses do I check? Ones under hood, by battery?

Outback on Ives Row in Cheshire CT with HIDs, LED license plate bulbs, exhaust. I was running, it was dark, I reached out as to say "hey pal..."

+1 on the Epics. Incredible stance, looks like sporty OEM and not "hey look I slammed my ride" and you can still go over speed bumps and drive in the snow. Handling is improved drastically.