dave g Posted September 28, 2008 Share Posted September 28, 2008 I just finished reinstalling my square-tube Hidden Hitch (90138 class II). Initially it was installed below the loop with a shim at each bolt. I tried to get it above the tow loop on the first install, but had trouble lining up the bolts. If you look at the picture in post 113 on page 8, you'll see what I felt I was dealing with. The gusset was running into the spare tire well and preventing the hitch from moving forward enough. After looking at the posts on this site and marking the hitch, I took it off and ground 3/4 inch of the gusset off, right across the width of it, which also opened up the bolt slot. The install went smoothly. I used 2 spacers on the front bolts and none on the rear, as the hitch now has an upward tilt to it. Now there appears to be nearly 3/4" gap between where I cut the hitch and the tire well. It turns out I cut off more than I needed to, but at least it got me some wiggle room for lining up the bolts, if nothing else. I forgot to measure the prior ground clearance, so I don't know how much I gained (Doh!). I would prefer to have more of the hitch gusset sitting on the tow loop, but as I am only carrying a bike rack, I am not too concerned. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflo Posted September 29, 2008 Share Posted September 29, 2008 I just finished reinstalling my square-tube Hidden Hitch (90138 class II). Initially it was installed below the loop with a shim at each bolt. I tried to get it above the tow loop on the first install, but had trouble lining up the bolts. If you look at the picture in post 113 on page 8, you'll see what I felt I was dealing with. The gusset was running into the spare tire well and preventing the hitch from moving forward enough. After looking at the posts on this site and marking the hitch, I took it off and ground 3/4 inch of the gusset off, right across the width of it, which also opened up the bolt slot. The install went smoothly. I used 2 spacers on the front bolts and none on the rear, as the hitch now has an upward tilt to it. Now there appears to be nearly 3/4" gap between where I cut the hitch and the tire well. It turns out I cut off more than I needed to, but at least it got me some wiggle room for lining up the bolts, if nothing else. I forgot to measure the prior ground clearance, so I don't know how much I gained (Doh!). I would prefer to have more of the hitch gusset sitting on the tow loop, but as I am only carrying a bike rack, I am not too concerned. I just did exactly the same thing with my hitch (Subaru Draw-Tite) a few weeks ago. I'm not sure how I mismeasured cutting off the gusset but it seems sold enough for my Thule T2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anexartist Posted October 3, 2008 Share Posted October 3, 2008 A few weeks ago the lights on my trailer failed. I figured it was a ground but my voltage tester is showing that there is no power beyond the Subaru trailer harness converter box (the box with the 6 wires on one side and the 3 female and 1 male ground on the other). This is the OEM trailer wiring harness (part # L1010SS030). Two questions: 1. Is it possible to open this box? It looks sealed to me but perhaps I'm missing something here. 2. I did test the wires with the circuit tester but did not have the trailer connected at the time, I tested the circuit by touching the circuit tester to the inside of the female connectors. Should the trailer have been connected? I can't think of any reason why but I'm far from an expert when it comes to wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinniety Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 I just did exactly the same thing with my hitch (Subaru Draw-Tite) a few weeks ago. I'm not sure how I mismeasured cutting off the gusset but it seems sold enough for my Thule T2. I am in a simialr situation with my hidden hitch that i just installed last night. I cant get it on top of the tow hook and dam does it look horrible. It is like a sour thumb. I need to remove it tonight and see what i can do. But what is the GUSSET that you guys are indicating you cut off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflo Posted November 6, 2008 Share Posted November 6, 2008 But what is the GUSSET that you guys are indicating you cut off? Like the other post said check out page 8, post #113. What i cut off was about a half inch of the flat plate through which the bolt goes. This allowed the plate to go above the tow hitch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomskib Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 bump Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vinniety Posted November 13, 2008 Share Posted November 13, 2008 Like the other post said check out page 8, post #113. What i cut off was about a half inch of the flat plate through which the bolt goes. This allowed the plate to go above the tow hitch. I actually looked into this two nights ago and i noticed if i cut the flat plate an inch or what ever amoount the bolts in the rear will not match up anymore. What i did was make the hole or slot where the bolt goes through that hooks up to the existing tow hook a little bit longer. What i mean is the flat piece has a slot that the bolt can slide about an inch back and forth i just made that slot a little bit longer openinng and woolaa that gave me enough room to put the bolt through with the tow hitch on top of the tow hook. Looks good and worked out for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave g Posted November 14, 2008 Share Posted November 14, 2008 I put in the rear bolt last, so it was not in the way while I lined up the front four.It sounds like you put it in first, to anchor it, something I did not think of. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugawi Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Finally got hold of older tubular 90756 hitch for my LGT '05 Wagon. I did not use any spacers, just washers. IT was place on top of the rear hook without a problem. Here is some pictures: http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j251/tobyloby/DSC07920.jpg http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j251/tobyloby/DSC07921.jpg http://i82.photobucket.com/albums/j251/tobyloby/DSC07923.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave g Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Where did you find the tubular hitch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTATV Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 doesnt hiddenhitch made a tubular one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugawi Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 doesnt hiddenhitch made a tubular one? That's what mine is. They stop making them few years ago. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sugawi Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Where did you find the tubular hitch? Found it at the wrecking yard. LGT wagons already low and I couldn't have hitch that has to be below rear hook. Anybody knows how to do wiring on LGT wagons? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted November 16, 2008 Share Posted November 16, 2008 Found it at the wrecking yard. LGT wagons already low and I couldn't have hitch that has to be below rear hook. Anybody knows how to do wiring on LGT wagons? I have a tubular HH on my wagon. Since I now have a work truck, I no longer need it. Search back through the hitch threads. I had a post on the pinouts on the wagon to wire in a connector. I have since bought the Subaru wiring harness. FWIW, the wiring harness was only available with the factory hitch up until a couple of years ago. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boosted Posted December 8, 2008 Share Posted December 8, 2008 I own a 05 sedan and I purchase the Subaru OEM hitch, Subaru part #L101SAG100. The hitch came with the factory harness. My car is a sedan so it doesn’t have the OEM plug that I can connect the hitch harness to. Does anyone have instructions on how to splice the harness into the wiring of the sedan? I have searched and can’t find it anywhere. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anexartist Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 So my second factory harness (L1010SS030) also shorted out on me. The box itself is a sealed unit so I'm forced to buy another unit (I cut open the first one and found the circuit board had shorted out so I think it's safe assuming the same thing happened with this one). Have these harnesses given anyone else trouble? It wasn't subject to any harsh environment or weather, it just stopped working. The voltage tester shows power running into the box from the tail light connector (factory connector, my car is a wagon) but nothing exiting it. Any ideas on how to figure out what the problem might be? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallispec Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Sedan wiring question: For those with sedans who did the wiring themselves, how did you do it? i see two options - 1) use the subaru harness and find a dedicated 12v source (run from fuse box??) 2) use off the shelf harness and splice directly into light wires. However - standard hitch wiring uses brake lights and turn signals on the same line, and the subaru runs the turns, brakes, and tail lights on seperate wires. 3) Other option? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseg Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I own a 05 sedan and I purchase the Subaru OEM hitch, Subaru part #L101SAG100. The hitch came with the factory harness. My car is a sedan so it doesn’t have the OEM plug that I can connect the hitch harness to. Does anyone have instructions on how to splice the harness into the wiring of the sedan? I have searched and can’t find it anywhere. Thanks! Post #85 in this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1217421&postcount=85 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseg Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 Sedan wiring question: 2) use off the shelf harness and splice directly into light wires. However - standard hitch wiring uses brake lights and turn signals on the same line, and the subaru runs the turns, brakes, and tail lights on seperate wires. You can get a trailer 4 post plug with four wires pretty much anywhere. Or do you mean that your trailer runs the brake and turns on the same wire? (I can't see how that works, though). Just in case you want to splice into the left tail lamp: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1217421&postcount=85 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dseg Posted September 7, 2009 Share Posted September 7, 2009 I own a 05 sedan and I purchase the Subaru OEM hitch, Subaru part #L101SAG100. The hitch came with the factory harness. My car is a sedan so it doesn’t have the OEM plug that I can connect the hitch harness to. Does anyone have instructions on how to splice the harness into the wiring of the sedan? I have searched and can’t find it anywhere. Thanks! Post #85 in this thread: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1217421&postcount=85 Oops, just noticed when this was posted. Hope you got it done by now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rallispec Posted September 8, 2009 Share Posted September 8, 2009 You can get a trailer 4 post plug with four wires pretty much anywhere. Or do you mean that your trailer runs the brake and turns on the same wire? (I can't see how that works, though). Just in case you want to splice into the left tail lamp: http://legacygt.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1217421&postcount=85 maybe i mis-stated my concern.. my current understanding it is that it takes 5 wires to do all of the rear light functions 1) left turn 2) right turn 3) brake 4) tail light 5) ground wire The trailer hitch wire only has 4 wires - Ground, Left, Right, and Tail - from what i can see thier is no dedicated brake wire. So that leads me to believe that most cars run the brakes by varying the voltage across either the running lights or turn signals. Unless I mis-interperetted how the wiring is done in the car? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nightspeed98 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 any clearance issues? i've rubbed it least 4 times so far with stock vehicle height. any one lower their lgt and have a hitch? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rporter Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 any clearance issues? i've rubbed it least 4 times so far with stock vehicle height. any one lower their lgt and have a hitch? When I was at stock height, I busted 3-4 decorative end caps I put on. When it was lowered, I put on a small one with a golf ball on the end. Can't tell you how many times I whacked that golf ball off!! Hitch is off now, ready for sale. Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted October 27, 2009 Share Posted October 27, 2009 I've finally got through this thread.. but nobody mentions the hidden hitch 87446 listed as class III through hidden hitch. I just assume this is going to be like the other ones and have to finagle it a bit to see how tight you can get it to the tow hook? Anyone have this model? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rice_rocket Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 I didn't have a lot of luck with the other threads and an answer. In terms of the wiring harness.. what is the bonus of getting the modulator/inverter versus a direct wire tap to the brake, signals.. and a ground? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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