Oils that our cars DON'T eat?

[05 Outback 2.5i]

I've used M1 0W-40 in my FXT in the past and would probably run their High Mileage oils if I use Mobil1 again. Those oils are very robust (SL rated) and the 10W-30 meets ACEA A3 specs like GC does. They also have more zinc and phosphorus than the EP oils.

 

-Dennis

 

I use Mobil's 0W40 European Formula in my Wife's 3.0 liter Straight Six BMW, which tends to 'eat' whatever oil we run in it (BMW branded (Castrol) Synthetic was even worse).

 

I guess I'm not clear, but are you implying that the Mobil 1 High Mileage Oils offer better protection than the Extended Performance Oils?

 

__________________

~Scott

'05 Outback 2.5i Wagon

Willow Green Opal/ Moss Green Metallic

225/60HR16 Bridgestone G009's

[seabass07]

Actually, all oils are changing. With the move from API SL/ILSAC GF3 to API SM/ILSAC GF4 back in '03 or '04, levels of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) dropped because of the (overblown, IMO) fear that phosphorus poisons cats. Those levels are not being reduced with the current move to API SN/ILSAC GF5, but other additives are changing to keep up with other requirements of the new specs. Some manufacturers are increasing calcium, moly, etc. to make up for the reduction of the other anti-wear additives. Info on GF5 here.

 

Yes, Mobil uses Group III base stocks and will not tell you which oils contain which base stocks. Although there are some very good Group III base stock oils (like Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra). I'm running Ultra 5W-40. Your n/a Sube is very easy on oil so it doesn't make a lot of difference, IMO. I've used Max Life and now Pennzoil High Mileage in a '99 Outback and '00 RS with no measurable consumption at 5-6k mile intervals.

 

I've used M1 0W-40 in my FXT in the past and would probably run their High Mileage oils if I use Mobil1 again. Those oils are very robust (SL rated) and the 10W-30 meets ACEA A3 specs like GC does. They also have more zinc and phosphorus than the EP oils.

 

More info on ZDDP from M1's web site:

The active ingredient that you are talking about is phosphorus which is added thru a component called ZDDP. For products that meet the new ILSAC GF-4 specification the phosphorus levels for the oil must be less than 800 ppm phosphorus. The ILSAC level for phosphorus has been reduced to protect the catalytic converter and other emission protection equipment. The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines. However, there are Mobil 1 products which have a higher level of phosphorus (phos) and can be used in engines in racing or high performance applications; see the attached table.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

 

-Dennis

 

 

That is actually the main difference between gas engine oil and diesel engine oil. The diesel oil contains much more ZDDP than gas engine oil. It supposedly messes with the cats and makes them less efficient, but it sticks to parts and is much better for the engine when it is being abused. That and the fact that there are more additives to help it maintain it's original viscosity. That is why I decided on the Rotella 5w40.

[bluesubie]

I guess I'm not clear, but are you implying that the Mobil 1 High Mileage Oils offer better protection than the Extended Performance Oils?

I haven't compared VOA's and UOA's, but the HM oils have slightly higher levels of Anti-Wear additives, HTHS, and viscosity. I can't remember what EP uses for its extended interval. Maybe a lot of calcium. You could probably look up the info on bitog. Either choice is better than the girly-man Energy Conserving Mobil1 though, IMO.

 

-Dennis

[joeblow]

Rotella T6 5w40 synthetic. My oil consumption has dropped since switching from pennzoil ultra (was burning through 1 quart every thousand miles, but also driving the piss out of my car), but I've also driven a little more conservatively. If I push the car hard at WOT through a couple gears, I can smell a slight burnt oil scent mixed with uncatted exhuast. So I think it has more to do with how hard you push your car than type of oil IMO.

[05gtlimited300]

castrol gtx 10w40, zero consumption here

[Spellbinder]

I just did an oil change today and put in 5W30 Castrol Syntec and a Mobil 1 filter, I drive an 09 Legacy 2.5i and drive around 650 miles a week... this is my first oil change with this car so i am interested to see how it goes, Castrol Syntec has worked great in the past for my other vehicles so i will have to wait and see how the subaru takes to it

[AZP Installs]

I just checked my Motul 5w30 8100 series after 3500 miles street and 2 track days at Watkins Glen, no consumption...

 

-mike

[ObiWanToby]

Honestly, reading the dipstick is hard. Also, am I supposed to check it warm or cold? Should I let the engine run or not?

[BIGAL8899]

mobil 1 sucks ass. After only a thousand miles, i checked my oil and its black as shit an very low. whats the best oil and filter combo?

[apexi]

Honestly, reading the dipstick is hard. Also, am I supposed to check it warm or cold? Should I let the engine run or not?

 

Warm or cold really doesn't matter, just know a wam reading may be a couple of mm's higher than a cold reading. Other than that, just wait at least 5-10 minutes after shutting off your engine, and make sure you're on a flat surface.

[lordchilly]

My friend in his 08wrx and I did an oil change yesterday. We both did the change the same time with Mobil 1. When we poured back the old oil back into the gallon jug, he poured back 3.25 quarts and i poured back 4.25 qts back. Both with closely 3000 miles. I guess his 08wrx likes to consume mobil 1. Then Im using Castrol Syn and he's using Valvoline Syn. Lets see how that goes.

[05 Outback 2.5i]

mobil 1 sucks ass. After only a thousand miles, i checked my oil and its black as shit an very low. whats the best oil and filter combo?

 

Well, there are four pages of people's experiences and recommendations with other brands and weights of oils, as well as filters. What else is it you are looking for?

 

Edit: Rotella T 5w40 run in an STI - Oil analysis at BITOG

 

2005 STi Rotella@8100m LESS wear than M1@2600m

 

__________________

~Scott

'05 Outback 2.5i Wagon

Willow Green Opal/ Moss Green Metallic

225/60HR16 Bridgestone G009's

[krzyss]

Which exactly Mobil 1 sucks?

0W40, 5W30, etc.

 

Krzys

[Scotty]

I did 160,000 miles on Mobil 1 with no oil consumption. Currently using Castrol Edge with no consumption. The UOA on the Castrol Edge showed below average wear with the exception of the lower viscosity.

[Euclid]

mobil 1 sucks ass. After only a thousand miles, i checked my oil and its black as shit an very low. whats the best oil and filter combo?

 

 

color does not represent the condition of the oil.

[bluesuby]

Which exactly Mobil 1 sucks?

0W40, 5W30, etc.

 

Krzys

 

I'm not convinced any Mobil 1 is bad. I have used it in all 3 of our cars and have no consumption or complaints. One question I do have is has anyone tried the 0w40? I'm thinking I could make life simpler by using 0w40 in lieu of switching back and forth between 5w30 and 10w30.

[Zardoz9]

Motul FTW!!!! For Sure. 2 2005 Turbos (Outback/Baja), no burn whatsoever. After going through Mobil 1, love the Motul Stuff!!

[Saul_Good]

I've been using Rotella 5w-40 for DD and track duties and have had great results in protection and oil consumption.

[joeleodee]

Been using Penzoil 5w30 (dino) from the very beginning with no oil consumption.

 

 

This is what I use at the caution of the Honda douchebag who works at th parts store. no noticeable consumption.

[grahamcrackaa]

Mobil 1 Synthetic 10w30- has been eating it about 1 quart every 600 miles. Changing to either motul or rotella next oil change....

[AZP Installs]

I'm not convinced any Mobil 1 is bad. I have used it in all 3 of our cars and have no consumption or complaints. One question I do have is has anyone tried the 0w40? I'm thinking I could make life simpler by using 0w40 in lieu of switching back and forth between 5w30 and 10w30.

 

0-40 though is a different animal than 5w30 and 10w30.

 

I would suggest running 5w40 because 0 weight is a bit thin for our cars, even for winter.

 

-mike

[seabass07]

Where do you get this from?

 

Regardless of the brand, 0w40 oil in general are thicker than a 5w30 in warmer temps. They are thicker at 40C and 100C, just thinner in extreme cold. This is the case with mobil1. With mobil 1, the 0w40 is thicker than the 10w30 above 40C.

[AZP Installs]

Yes, you are right, however the 0w is going to be too thin on the cold side of things, and therefore I would not suggest running below a 5wXX, if anything go with a 10wXX over a 0wXX.

 

-mike

[seabass07]

But the viscosity at cold temps is still much thicker than at operating temperature. How could it be too thin if the viscosity is several times higher than at operating temp? IMO, the closer to the operating temp viscosity the oil is in cold weather, the better it will flow and the better it will be on cold starts.

[rtbrjason]

0-40 though is a different animal than 5w30 and 10w30.

 

I would suggest running 5w40 because 0 weight is a bit thin for our cars, even for winter.

 

-mike

 

I had a warranty long block replacement and had to provide proof of oil changes via receipts. They noted that I used 0w40 during the winter and gave me a bit of grief for having done so. Luckily in the end they explained that while it could have been the reason for the engine failure, they couldn't prove it, and not to use it in the future.

 

They did the warranty long block and returned the car with several pages from a manual showing that a 0 weight oil was not recommended anywhere. It also included some schematics and engine clearance numbers etc. They were fairly adamant about this point and I've just used 5w30 since despite being mostly sure that the 0w40 had nothing to do with my engine failure.