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Oils that our cars DON'T eat?


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We do a lot of oil changes at our shop.

 

We have found customers who have ran Mobil 1 5w30 and then switch over to the Amsoil Full Synthetic (not the XL7500) 5w30 or the Amsoil 5w40 have reduced their oil consumption. The Subaru 5w30 Synthetic seems to burn a bit more than the Amsoil but less than the Mobil 1. One of our customers uses the Rotella 5w40 and loves it so we started to stock it, he doesn't burn any in 3k miles with it.

 

I recently put the Motul 5w30 in my 05 LGT and so far it's seen 2 track days and about 3500 miles and hasn't burnt any yet.

 

So in terms of Oil Consumption here is what we've seen having done a ton of oil changes:

Would Reccomend

Shell Rotella (small sample)

Amsoil (large sample)

Redline (med sample)

Motul (med sample)

Subaru (med sample)

Mobil Non-Synthetic (med sample)

Quaker State Non-Synthetic (med sample)

 

Would not recommend:

Mobil 1 (large sample)

 

-mike

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For any of the NA guys (2.5I) I run castrol from the subie dealer, My last oil change was 7700 miles, over that time and many corner and high RPM revs I think I added a quart and that is it. I do check my oil every other gas fill up. I am a true believer in oil that last long. 3k change is just a waste, My oil looks very nice after 7500 miles.
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The key to long lasting oil, isn't necessarily the oil itself, but it is the filter. We recommend the Amsoil Long Life Oil Filters and intervals for NA cars of about 10,000 miles and 7,500 on Turbo cars. When we do the changes using Amsoil w/Amsoil Filters we have found the oil to be in good condition on both NA and Turbos. One of our more anal customers has had it tested and the lab came back with almost no breakdown whatsoever over that time period.

 

-mike

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The key to long lasting oil, isn't necessarily the oil itself, but it is the filter. We recommend the Amsoil Long Life Oil Filters and intervals for NA cars of about 10,000 miles and 7,500 on Turbo cars. When we do the changes using Amsoil w/Amsoil Filters we have found the oil to be in good condition on both NA and Turbos. One of our more anal customers has had it tested and the lab came back with almost no breakdown whatsoever over that time period.

 

-mike

Mike,

 

Keep in mind that Amsoil doesn't recommend going past a 3,750 mile interval in any Subaru turbo. It's because of the oil inlet screen blockage problems, so they just apply that rule to to all Subaru turbos probably as a CYA move.

 

-Dennis

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I hear ya on that AZP, I have been using the subie filters on the car and what they have oil wise. It's just funny how non car people get something in there head and run with it. I told a guy at the place I was getting my inspection done I got 7500 mile on a change and he was like " that's way over due man". LOL
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Mike,

 

Keep in mind that Amsoil doesn't recommend going past a 3,750 mile interval in any Subaru turbo. It's because of the oil inlet screen blockage problems, so they just apply that rule to to all Subaru turbos probably as a CYA move.

 

-Dennis

 

Yup, it's purely a CYA thing for any oil manufacturer to not exceed the recommended car manufacturer interval.

 

-mike

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I hear ya on that AZP, I have been using the subie filters on the car and what they have oil wise. It's just funny how non car people get something in there head and run with it. I told a guy at the place I was getting my inspection done I got 7500 mile on a change and he was like " that's way over due man". LOL

 

The OEM filters are also a good choice.

 

The way we lay things out for customers is basically:

 

Amsoil Filters- Longest Lasting, most filtering etc, also cost the most.

OEM Subaru Filters- Decent length of lasting, with good filtering, medium cost.

Cheapo Filters- Shortest lasting, least filtering, least cost.

 

So in the end you can go with a less expensive oil/filter combo, but the interval will be required to be shorter, or you go with a more expensive oil/filter combo and the interval is extended.

 

-mike

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i jus changed my oil 2 weeks ago and put about 800+ miles on it since then. I jus checked my oil today and its kinda dark. way more then i expected.

 

Also, when i checked it i found that the oil level was in 3/4 full on the front of the dipstick, but on the back of the dipstick it was full. Is this normal?

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You have to wipe it off and put it back in. Sometimes a few times. I find the only accurate reading is when it has been sitting for at least an hour.

 

 

yea i did wipe it an put it back, an its the same everytime....3/4 full on the front side and full on the backside of the dipstick.....sry if this is a dumb question :confused:

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For any of the NA guys (2.5I) I run castrol from the subie dealer, My last oil change was 7700 miles, over that time and many corner and high RPM revs I think I added a quart and that is it. I do check my oil every other gas fill up. I am a true believer in oil that last long. 3k change is just a waste, My oil looks very nice after 7500 miles.

 

NA or not, u need to check ur filter with that kind of OCI

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yea i did wipe it an put it back, an its the same everytime....3/4 full on the front side and full on the backside of the dipstick.....sry if this is a dumb question :confused:

 

Same with mine after letting sit for several hours in my level garage. I take the reading from the side with the markings.

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The key to long lasting oil, isn't necessarily the oil itself, but it is the filter. We recommend the Amsoil Long Life Oil Filters and intervals for NA cars of about 10,000 miles and 7,500 on Turbo cars. When we do the changes using Amsoil w/Amsoil Filters we have found the oil to be in good condition on both NA and Turbos. One of our more anal customers has had it tested and the lab came back with almost no breakdown whatsoever over that time period.

 

-mike

you cant be ******* serious :lol::lol::lol:

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I am going to try to replace the PCV over the weekend if I find time. I think this may add to oil being blown out of the engine. I've read some people claiming their oil consumption went to zero after PCV was replaced.

2005 LGT Wagon Limited 6 MT RBP Stage 2 - 248K

2007 B9 Tribeca Limited DGM - 258K

SOLD - 2005 OB Limited 5 MT Silver - 245K

SOLD - 2010 OB 6 MT Silver - 205K

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Been using Rotella 15-40 over the summer, it didn't change my consumption. 2 weeks ago changed over to Castrol GTX 5-30, for the first 800 miles no oil usage. Then in the next 400 miles, all highway, one day, about a 1/3 of a qt.

 

Been doing that same, no usage after the oil change, then using oil, for the past few years.

 

135,500 miles on the car.

305,600miles 5/2012 ej257 short block, 8/2011 installed VF52 turbo, @20.8psi, 280whp, 300ftlbs. (SOLD).  CHECK your oil, these cars use it.

 

Engine Build - Click Here

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I've been using Mobil 1 10W30 since the break in period ended (I'm coming up on 90K now). I was originally using the regular Mobile 1, but in the last few years there has been alot of talk about Mobil 'degrading' the original formula, and accusations by competitors that Mobil 1 5W30 does not meet the API specifications it claims to.

 

I moved to the Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which came out around the same time the issues began to surface with the regular Mobil 1 (5W30 primarily). It has been theorized by many that the Extended Performance (Gold Top) oil is the original formula that won Mobil 1 its reputation, and that the regular (gray top) is a 'watered down' formulation, using less expensive base stocks.

 

I did notice a reduction in usage when I switched to the extended performance, dropping oil consumption to roughly 1/4 - 1/2 quart in 3K miles, but my OCI is 5K miles (during which it tends to use about 3/4 of a quart). I also run Mobil 1 Filters (I run a larger than stock, M-110 I believe) with good success..

 

Don't forget about Bob Is the Oil Guy for all your in depth Oil Research Needs..

 

__________________

~Scott

'05 Outback 2.5i Wagon

Willow Green Opal/ Moss Green Metallic

225/60HR16 Bridgestone G009's

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I've been using Mobil 1 10W30 since the break in period ended (I'm coming up on 90K now). I was originally using the regular Mobile 1' date=' but in the last few years there has been alot of talk about Mobil 'degrading' the original formula, and accusations by competitors that Mobil 1 5W30 does not meet the API specifications it claims to.

 

I moved to the Mobil 1 Extended Performance, which came out around the same time the issues began to surface with the regular Mobil 1 (5W30 primarily). It has been theorized by many that the Extended Performance (Gold Top) oil is the original formula that won Mobil 1 its reputation, and that the regular (gray top) is a 'watered down' formulation, using less expensive base stocks.

 

I did notice a reduction in usage when I switched to the extended performance, dropping oil consumption to roughly 1/4 - 1/2 quart in 3K miles, but my OCI is 5K miles (during which it tends to use about 3/4 of a quart). I also run Mobil 1 Filters (I run a larger than stock, M-110 I believe) with good success..

 

Don't forget about Bob Is the Oil Guy for all your in depth Oil Research Needs..

 

__________________

~Scott

'05 Outback 2.5i Wagon

Willow Green Opal/ Moss Green Metallic

225/60HR16 Bridgestone G009's

Actually, all oils are changing. With the move from API SL/ILSAC GF3 to API SM/ILSAC GF4 back in '03 or '04, levels of zinc and phosphorus (ZDDP) dropped because of the (overblown, IMO) fear that phosphorus poisons cats. Those levels are not being reduced with the current move to API SN/ILSAC GF5, but other additives are changing to keep up with other requirements of the new specs. Some manufacturers are increasing calcium, moly, etc. to make up for the reduction of the other anti-wear additives. Info on GF5 here.

 

Yes, Mobil uses Group III base stocks and will not tell you which oils contain which base stocks. Although there are some very good Group III base stock oils (like Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra). I'm running Ultra 5W-40. Your n/a Sube is very easy on oil so it doesn't make a lot of difference, IMO. I've used Max Life and now Pennzoil High Mileage in a '99 Outback and '00 RS with no measurable consumption at 5-6k mile intervals.

 

I've used M1 0W-40 in my FXT in the past and would probably run their High Mileage oils if I use Mobil1 again. Those oils are very robust (SL rated) and the 10W-30 meets ACEA A3 specs like GC does. They also have more zinc and phosphorus than the EP oils.

 

More info on ZDDP from M1's web site:

The active ingredient that you are talking about is phosphorus which is added thru a component called ZDDP. For products that meet the new ILSAC GF-4 specification the phosphorus levels for the oil must be less than 800 ppm phosphorus. The ILSAC level for phosphorus has been reduced to protect the catalytic converter and other emission protection equipment. The engine manufacturers are confident that this level of phosphorus will protect both new and older engines. However, there are Mobil 1 products which have a higher level of phosphorus (phos) and can be used in engines in racing or high performance applications; see the attached table.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf

 

-Dennis

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