Peaty Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Hoping to get some clarity on which setups require rotating the shocks, would that be the case with the Subbie 19 and KB end links? Yes, I think you need to rotate the shocks. I installed a whiteline adj RSB, if it's the same as the STi bar then you will need to rotate. I suspect it is but have not done the STi myself. It's a lot easier to do than you think. My website is blocked from work but if you click the link in my sig to the legacy, you can find a folder in there with mods and I have some pics and info on the install. Peaty, 2019 Imp Sport 5 Dr (Mine) 2013 Outback Premium (Wife's) 2010 Legacy 3.6R (Son), 2001 Forester S (other son) 1999 Miata (my summer ride) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LoHud 3.6R Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 With the Subaru 19mm bar and the KB links, there is NO shock rotation required. I installed them about 2 months ago with no problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaty Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 Good to know thanks. Did you verify with full articulation of the suspension? I only ask because mine looked fine until you have he wheels at full droop off the ground. Peaty, 2019 Imp Sport 5 Dr (Mine) 2013 Outback Premium (Wife's) 2010 Legacy 3.6R (Son), 2001 Forester S (other son) 1999 Miata (my summer ride) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rutchard Posted November 2, 2011 Share Posted November 2, 2011 I thought mine were fine too, until I saw the marks they were making on the spring perches... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraugher Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Yes, there were some folks saying it both ways, I just didn't know who was using what hardware. I think I will keep it simple and just replace the bar for now. Thank you for your input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 I didn't notice clearance issues when I had the kartboys installed with the 19mm bar, only noise until I greased them a little. Then quiet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted November 3, 2011 Share Posted November 3, 2011 Peaty and I have the 22mm Whiteline 3 position adjustable and needed to rotate the perch. If you install the 22mm RSB with the tires on the ground, the endlinks will not hit the perch and all looks well. Don't be fooled, whenever the car is on a lift or the suspension is extended it will interact. Now the Subaru 19mm is shaped a little differently and the Kartboys may not interfere with the spring perch. Nadracer, next time your car is jacked up, can you update this thread? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted November 4, 2011 Share Posted November 4, 2011 Now the Subaru 19mm is shaped a little differently and the Kartboys may not interfere with the spring perch. Nadracer, next time your car is jacked up, can you update this thread? Yeah, about that. I swapped everything out for the 22mm whiteline and rallitek endlinks a few months ago. I do have a 19mm sway available if anyone is nearby to pick up. Its on sale in market place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraugher Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Can anyone confirm that the curved part of the 19mm bar should go up, so an over the top curve? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaty Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 http://peatpics.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=104973 I have pics there that might help, I'm trying to picture exactly what you are asking. Peaty, 2019 Imp Sport 5 Dr (Mine) 2013 Outback Premium (Wife's) 2010 Legacy 3.6R (Son), 2001 Forester S (other son) 1999 Miata (my summer ride) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Can anyone confirm that the curved part of the 19mm bar should go up, so an over the top curve? The stock bar and 19mm can go up. But if you have anything bigger like Whitline it goes down towards the exhaust. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
minuccims Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 Are you installing with the wheels on or off the ground? Take a look at the stock bar in these positions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fraugher Posted November 6, 2011 Share Posted November 6, 2011 OK, thanks for the help. Here is my write-up, may be a bit redundant, but trying to put together some notes for the faint of heart like me. (Ironically and gratefully, after 1000 posts here, the best is still the original post- thanks Metal) Swapped the stock rear sway bar for the 19MM Subaru bar, kept the end links (my they are small !) after concern about rotating shocks. I was also swapping for my winter wheels, it helped a lot to have the rear wheels off, because a lot of light came in that way and (maybe in my imagination the unsprung weight helps). Definitely jack the car up if you do not want small muscle cramps. This was a very very easy job, took me 20 minutes not including jacking and removing wheels which were part of a different project. Tools: (bar and bushings that came with it), 14MM open wrench, 12MM socket wrench and an extender helps, hex wrench, grease (shin-etsu), goggles Do not even bother with photos, it's so obvious and so easy when you get under there. I jacked up, set two stands, removed wheels. Removed the 12MM screws on the bushing bracket (2 on each side) with the socket wrench and extender for the top screw. In retrospect might be easier to loosen the 14MM before removing the bushing brackets. The 14MM is removed with two wrenches at once, the hex and the open wrench. Trick for me was the hex wrench did most of the work, there isn't a lot of room in there for rotation. Hardest part of the job was getting the 14MM unlocked, the threads were already corroding (got some rust dust in my eyes and ran for the goggles), so don't wait on this job, swap the bar as close to your car new as possible. Wrestle the bar off the end links and slide it clear of the exhaust. Prep the new bar by greasing the inside of the bushing, while I was at it, I went under the car and greased up the end link. If I were to do it again, might even grease up the hole ends of the sway bar. Put bushings on the bar and then slide the bar over the exhaust. First try I put the bar on upside down, wasn't clear if it mattered, but ended up second time with the raised middle section facing up. I hand threaded the 14s first and then worked on the brackets, tightened everything up last. Hand tightened everything, not too worried about torqueing (got a pretty good idea when I took them off). Then wrestled the bar a little to center it properly between the bushing, which I imagine the car might do for you after a few miles. With the wheels off and having so much light, I imagine swapping the end links and rotating the shocks would indeed be no problem at all, but will live with this for now. Not a lot to say about the effects of the bar, because I swapped snows on at the same time, but my first impressions are that the car handles rough road/gravel road much better, and I make fewer (mostly none now) steering corrections in turns, pretty much the way I was used to subbies being in the past. Took the stock bar and screwed it through two floor joists on the ceiling of the garage, now have a hanger bar for whatever. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dew2far Posted November 9, 2011 Share Posted November 9, 2011 I added the 19mm sway bar a few months ago. It made a noticeable difference but I recently added the AVO poly sway bar bushings and Rallitek endlinks. These two things made a fairly significant difference (probably more the bushings). I checked the durometer of the new bushings to the old and they are nearly twice the hardness. No squeak yet and for under $25 it's a pretty good result. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamby Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 i installed my whiteline 24mm rsb but noticed the center of the bar is touching or REALLY close to the spare tire well. is anyone else running that issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CL21376 Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I added the 19mm sway bar a few months ago. It made a noticeable difference but I recently added the AVO poly sway bar bushings and Rallitek endlinks. These two things made a fairly significant difference (probably more the bushings). I checked the durometer of the new bushings to the old and they are nearly twice the hardness. No squeak yet and for under $25 it's a pretty good result. I thought Rallitek discontinued their endlinks? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nadracer Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 I thought Rallitek discontinued their endlinks? They still had them up till this past summer. Thats when I picked up my set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaty Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 i installed my whiteline 24mm rsb but noticed the center of the bar is touching or REALLY close to the spare tire well. is anyone else running that issue? Yes, it was barely touching the tire well, I just gave a few gentle whacks with a dead blow hammer on the tire well to move it back a few mm Peaty, 2019 Imp Sport 5 Dr (Mine) 2013 Outback Premium (Wife's) 2010 Legacy 3.6R (Son), 2001 Forester S (other son) 1999 Miata (my summer ride) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lamby Posted November 11, 2011 Share Posted November 11, 2011 thanks peaty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peaty Posted November 12, 2011 Share Posted November 12, 2011 you can see here how close it is: http://peatpics.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=104977&g2_serialNumber=1 Peaty, 2019 Imp Sport 5 Dr (Mine) 2013 Outback Premium (Wife's) 2010 Legacy 3.6R (Son), 2001 Forester S (other son) 1999 Miata (my summer ride) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bonomia3 Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I ordered the Whiteline 22mm adj RSB, gonna keep stock endlinks and see how the incuded support arms do taking stress off the endlinks. Thanks for all the great info! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSpan Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I switched mine out last week and my car now has a noticeable pull to the right... It was dead center aligned prior to the swap, as I picky about that . I don't see any reason why swapping a sway would impact the alignment, esp. a rear sway. I am still under warranty, so I'll just get an alignment done, but did anyone else notice anything similar? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Philberto Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I wouldn't think there is any correlation between changing the sway and any bolts that would affect the alignment of the rear wheels. You only loosened the bolts around the bushings and end links, right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KSpan Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 I wouldn't think there is any correlation between changing the sway and any bolts that would affect the alignment of the rear wheels. You only loosened the bolts around the bushings and end links, right? Yeah - since it was the first time under the car, I was extra careful Not a huge deal, but somehting that struck me as odd. Maybe it has been pulling the whole time and now I'm just more tuned in or something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islandborn Posted March 26, 2012 Share Posted March 26, 2012 Bored and read the WHOLE post! I have read that certain people change the "adjustment" concerning weather... so....I have though a "big" question: I live in Texas - Houston, does it matter if its adjustable then? Why get adjustable for my application? We drive quite quick down here and nimbleness is important on the interstate (80mph is average - any less and you're clogging the road). My '12 LGT arrives 4/9 so I would like to set it up right the first time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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